Rocker gaskets from Viton

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freefly103

freefly103

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Real Gaskets based in Tennessee make silicon/rubber gaskets for Commandos (and many other machines). They are great, stop leaks, last a long time but their shipping costs to Europe are eye watering and they don’t combine shipping. Two sets of gaskets are approx $35 plus $45 shipping.

I decided to check out alternatives made from Viton.

The cost to tool up is about $3-4K. The other option is have them cut with a water jet. The company I’ve been talking to here wants a minimum order of 750 sets.

The cost works out to be about the same, but I can probably do much better on shipping to Europe.

Any interest?
 

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It is a good idea because those found in trade are really not solid and especially flee the escapes
 
I have a set of silicone rocker gaskets that have been on my bike for a few years now. I've found that they get depressed (squish) and the covers will loosen. And after a while they dry out - my intake cover gasket has torn. Jim Schmidt's reinforced gaskets eliminate that.
 
Cometic has valve cover gaskets, they are not listed on the web site. Give them a call, they are reasonably priced. They don’t squish, are re usable, almost black in color and don’t leak at all. They also have head gaskets, base gaskets and MKIII primary gaskets. I’m on my third time with my primary and it’s still leakproof, just grease it on installation. They will ship overseas, but no idea of the cost.
Pete
 
The set of Real Gaskets rocker cover gaskets have been on my bike for quite a few years. The secret is don't overtighten them. I have never seen them "dry out" I use a finger socket driver. That way the covers never get warped or bent.
Rocker gaskets from Viton
 
texasSlick said:
I have made my own valve cover gaskets from 1/16" thick synthetic cork.

No leaks, and in 57 years of ownership, my Atlas is on its second set.

Slick
Click to expand...
Perhaps:
Oil-Resistant Light Duty Cork/Buna-N Gasket Material
McMaster Carr???

FWIW Added:
commercial paper gaskets: .037"/.95mm or .024"/.61mm
 
Last edited:
freefly103 said:
Real Gaskets based in Tennessee make silicon/rubber gaskets for Commandos (and many other machines). They are great, stop leaks, last a long time but their shipping costs to Europe are eye watering and they don’t combine shipping. Two sets of gaskets are approx $35 plus $45 shipping.

I decided to check out alternatives made from Viton.

The cost to tool up is about $3-4K. The other option is have them cut with a water jet. The company I’ve been talking to here wants a minimum order of 750 sets.

The cost works out to be about the same, but I can probably do much better on shipping to Europe.

Any interest?
Click to expand...

Make them yourself there are small sheets of 1.5 to 2mm thick viton available on Ebay. You'll need it to be pretty hard I think I used 50 shore or harder. If you over tighten them they'll only last a couple of uses. I put a bit of stiff gasket compound on the stud threads to stop the nut screwing off. Hard neoprene and silicone works too.
Dave
I think RGM sell them.
 
dynodave said:
Perhaps:
Oil-Resistant Light Duty Cork/Buna-N Gasket Material
McMaster Carr???

FWIW Added:
commercial paper gaskets: .037"/.95mm or .024"/.61mm
Click to expand...

Yes to DynoDave..... that is the stuff. McMaster Carr also has 1/32" thick as well. I use this material whenever I have a difficult leak to seal. It works when all else failed, such as fuel cap, oil filler cap, inner primary cover to drive side engine case .... anywhere the thickness is not critical. It squeezes down but not to the extent that non reinforced silicone will.

Slick
 
I use the Real silicone and they've been just fine. I don't gorilla tighten them though... that was a hard habit to resist too. They've not leaked nor loosened up either. Have checked tappet adjustment several times and wash them with warm soapy water then stick them back after drying. Look the same as the day I got them so no complaint there.
 
Need some recommendations on what kind of sealant to use on gaskets on my '64 Atlas.
the split crankcase halves...
the timing covers...
the gearbox inner cover and outer cover...

the gear box inner gasket came off in my hand and was pristine. It looked greasy and as far as I can tell never leaked a drop. the outer cover had a hard cement that made the gasket tear and I had to scrape off all the residue. I don't think it ever leaked either. I have all the Andover gaskets but not sure what kind of compound, if any, to use. I can use whatever advice you guys can offer. Thanks
 
On your rocker covers and gearbox gaskets just use grease, for my crankcase joints I have been using loctite 518 plastic gasket.
 
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That grease thing sounds like what was on the gear case inner cover. It looked good to me.
I'll let you know how I made out. Thanks for the tip.
 
On the grease/gasket note. We used sticks of very hard grease smeared extremely thin with steel putty knives on garlock head gaskets for very large Cooper Bessemer horizontally opposed gas compressors. Never leaked, but tearing them down was a nightmare because it was like they'd been welded after being torqued @ 1250ft#. That brought a blast from the past I had to share.
 
I tried some squishy type rocker cover gaskets once, but I ended up over tightening them and they squished out of shape badly.

And I was conscious of avoiding this too. But they were so squishy, the nuts just didn’t feel tight, and whilst the soft gaskets probably don’t need to be tight to seal, I was worried about losing my covers!

Especially if a reed valve breather is used, I don’t think these need to be tight to seal at all. Even paper ones only need grease and a light nip up. The issues is preventing them from coming loose and being lost.

Of course, lock wire is an option, but it’s a PITA. I’m now thinking that nyloc nuts might be the answer, they don’t need to be tight, won’t vibrate off, and the nylon will seal the threads against leaks too.

The inlet cover would need a longer stud that has a shoulder to match the bigger hole in the cover.

Anyone done this ?
 
I have only ever applied 518 to one surface, a single bead plus rings around studs and holes, no need to spread with a finger either as it spreads itself as it stays liquid until deprived of air.
 
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