Rocker Arm Centering (2020)

I have read the posts on shimming the rockers to center the adjusters on the valve stems, I have reviewed the placement of the OE thrust washers and springs; thrust washers on the outside, springs on the inside.

Does it matter if the thrust washers and springs are positionaly reversed?

Best.

When I did mine I did not use the spring just shimmed it out with just a few thou clearance cold. It has been a while but I think I got some thrust
washers from RGM.

RoadScholar said:

I have read the posts on shimming the rockers to center the adjusters on the valve stems, I have reviewed the placement of the OE thrust washers and springs; thrust washers on the outside, springs on the inside.

Does it matter if the thrust washers and springs are positionaly reversed?

Best.

Click to expand...

No. But if you move the rocker over too far you may find there will be pushrod interference.

comnoz said:

No. But if you move the rocker over too far you may find there will be pushrod interference.

Click to expand...

Thanks Jim, and thanks Onder.

Turns out that the real issue was/is with my eyes. My son stopped in, had a look and assured me that the adjuster was, in fact, centered. I plan on getting more light in the shop...

Best.

I recently purchased one piece rocker covers from Jim Schmidt to stop my rocker shaft from leaking oil. They're great quality and the fiberglass gaskets are the bomb.

My problem is that the former owner installed the shafts in such a way as only one will fit on the head. He also left one of the rocker shafts standing proud of the head, and shimmed it with a piece of steel to make it fit. He says this is normal. I think they put the keepers on the covers to keep the shafts from rotating. So, I don't think I should ride the machine until I take the head off to relocate the rocker shafts properly. Last photo is of the spacer that this gentleman made. Any thoughts or opinions?

Tin Man said:

So, I don't think I should ride the machine until I take the head off to relocate the rocker shafts properly.

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You shouldn't have to remove the head to do that as it won't give you any better access to the rocker spindles than with the head in place so have you tried heating the head and tapping the rocker spindles further in?

L.A.B. said:

You shouldn't have to remove the head to do that as it won't give you any better access to the rocker spindles than with the head in place so have you tried heating the head and tapping the rocker spindles further in?

Click to expand...

No, I have not tried to heat the head. Map gas or heat gun? LOL

Tin Man said:

No, I have not tried to heat the head. Map gas or heat gun? LOL

Click to expand...

A heat gun, in my opinio, is the better choice as it heats the head more slowly which will minimize the possibility of cracking the head. The MAP gas torch , certianly, can be used, but it will require consideraly more finess.

In either case consider NOT heating one spot, but rather try to heat the head uniformaly. Also consider removing the coils and the head steady.

I use this technique or place the part in an oven and have found that slowly applied even heat, in stages 250, 300, 350 (F) works best.

L.A.B. said:

You shouldn't have to remove the head to do that as it won't give you any better access to the rocker spindles than with the head in place so have you tried heating the head and tapping the rocker spindles further in?

Click to expand...

I agree 100%, but don't be in a hurry, if you think it will take an hour allow 2 hours pluse clean-up time.

Best.

My last order from Andover Norton has a centering tool in it. I'll get on it as soon as the package gets here. Thanks for the advice.

Tin Man said:

No, I have not tried to heat the head. Map gas or heat gun? LOL

Click to expand...

It should only be necessary to heat the head to "150°- 200°C" as it says in the factory manual section C8.