Rhs switch

Good morning, I am wiring a 1974 850 w boyer ignition and am currently confused by the Red/Blue wire from handlebar to headlight. I have the switch block open and have 12 volts at every other wire - white, blue, blue/white, purple/black when right buttons are pushed. But the red/blue seems to be isolated from the rest and has no power, doesn't appear to be connected to any switch or button.
Therefore I don't have 12 volts at the headlight end of the wire and no light.
Can anyone educate me on how to get 12v to the headlight/ dip light?

Its 4:20 am in the UK , I am sure L.A.B will be with you after his breakfast.

According to the wiring schematic, "UR" is Blue/Red (blue with red tracer) ....and is for the Dip beam to RH switch:

Tornado said:

According to the wiring schematic, "UR" is Blue/Red (blue with red tracer) ....and is for the Dip beam to RH switch:
View attachment 80141

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I am aware of this, I'm trying to work out why there is no voltage at either end of this wire. Actually I tested it again and there seems to be about 3 volts trickling through it.

Wonky said:

I am aware of this, I'm trying to work out why there is no voltage at either end of this wire. Actually I tested it again and there seems to be about 3 volts trickling through it.

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Perhaps the switch contacts or bulb socket are corroded?

Wonky said:

I am aware of this, I'm trying to work out why there is no voltage at either end of this wire. Actually I tested it again and there seems to be about 3 volts trickling through it.

Click to expand...

The power to the switch for both high (main) and low (dip) beam is blue (U).

If power is reaching the main beam bulb filament through blue/white UW, then the fault has to be at the switch or a break in the UR wire at the other (dip beam) toggle switch position. Power for headlamp flash (upper button)*, however, is white W.

*"R/H handlebar switch".
Later models would normally be left-hand, as the factory reversed the switch clusters during '72.

L.A.B. said:

The power to the switch for both high (main) and low (dip) beam is blue (U).

Power for headlamp flash (upper button)*, however, is white W.

*"R/H handlebar switch".
Later models would normally be left-hand, as the factory reversed the switch clusters during '72.

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This is good to know, I thought white was the only source of power in the switchblock.
I seem to have an excess of bad connections throughout the whole harness so I'm going to clean it up a bit and start again

Reviving this thread to confirm my suspicion I have a left (post '72 setup) console issue. Is it a true statement that, if I connect one lead of an Ohm meter to the console's Blue wire, then the other lead to (alternately) to Blue/White and then Blue/Red, I should get a "closed circuit" beep on at least one of these tests? And, by flipping the console's switch, get the alternate result?

EDIT: To add, button test of White <> Blue/White (Low High Beam) and White <> Black/Purple (Horn) are good.

Jdub said:

Is it a true statement that, if I connect one lead of an Ohm meter to the console's Blue wire, then the other lead to (alternately) to Blue/White and then Blue/Red, I should get a "closed circuit" beep on at least one of these tests? And, by flipping the console's switch, get the alternate result?

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Yes.

Jdub said:

EDIT: To add, button test of White <> Blue/White (Low Beam) and White <> Black/Purple (Horn) are good.

Click to expand...

Ok, although blue/white (UW) is normally High/Main beam.

Thank you, was hoping for something magical that would prevent my having to burrow into the console. Really hate bending those wires and sorting the bearing and springs.

Resolution was to tighten up the space between the contacts for both. Took two tries and plenty of walking away for a minute or two.

A possible test for contacts too far apart is to carefully press the paddle lever in slightly while testing and see if the connection is made. If so, chances good you need to go in and bring the contacts closer together. A very small hex wrench can act as a support under the copper while you press the contact end down. The final gap I came up with was very small. Finally, the paddles I am using are aftermarket and may be aggravating the situation?