RGM Primary Belt Drive (2009)

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ebowling81

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Apr 3, 2009
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I finished installation of the RGM Primary Belt Drive on my '71 Commando yesterday. I was able to take it out for a short ride, and I am very happy about the feel of the belt drive. Shifting and acceleration feel much smoother. The primary transmission is now a lot quieter as well. The belt drive has made a slight change to the final drive ratio from the triplex chain, but with all of the torque on these beasts it is not very noticeable. It runs a lot smoother, and the speed is even more deceptive then it use to be.

I went ahead and replace my clutch plates at the same time. Now that the clutch is dry and has new plates, it engages smoothly with no excessive slipping or chattering, and does not grab when the bike is cold. Like all of my old brit iron, when I would engage first gear from a stop the bike you to give a little click and have a little jump forward, that is now gone as well. There is also a little bit of peace of mind that comes in knowing that there is one less place for oil to leak out.

Overall this was a great upgrade and I would definitely recommend it!

E Bowling
Ride it, Don't hide it
 
I've just (this morning!) finished fitting one to my rebuild, and its good to hear such positive reports - thanks for sharing ;)
I'd already decided to go this route based on the opinions of the forum.

What plates are you using? I've just refitted the original bronze ones to mine, but I've heard that the fibre ones are better.
Does this mean I'll have problems with the old plates?
 
I went ahead and fitted the Barnett Fiber Clutch Plate, with the orginal steel plates. You can use the original plates, but I have been needing to replace mine for a while, and decided to go with the fiber plates after what I have heard on the forums. I cannot say exactly how the fiber plates affect the feel of the bike, since I installed both the belt drive and plates at the same time. I can, however, say that the clutch pull is smooth, there is no more slipping, and the clutch grips nice and tight.

I actually switched from the 750 4 plate setup to the 850 5 plate setup, so that probably is helping with the clutch engagement as well. Best of luck with the bike. I know that you will enjoy it, when you get it all together!
 
Just a heads up about the Barnett plates. i had heard that the splines wear quite fast. I had Barnett plates on my Commando and when I pulled the clutch apart to install my belt drive the splines where very worn after only a few thousand miles of non abuse. Possibly they will last longer with a belt.
 
Thanks for the heads up on that. I have heard about that before. I have heard that the later 850 hardened clutch centers help with that, and I also know that the guys over at old brits seem to rave about them. I will probably just go in a check it in a few thousand miles and see how they are doing. Half the fun is all the tinkering . :wink:
 
I used to have barnett plates in my clutch, I found that they were "grabbier", and produced a black powder as they became worn.
All in all, just my personal experience, they exist to solve an old slipping problem that keeping stock plates clean and dry does not cause
I took them out, have stock plates, a belt primary so no oil to foul the plates, and life is smooth,clean, no leak, and non slip!
 
+ 1 on NOT using Barnett plates. I know Fred at old britts and mat at CNW likes to peddle this junk. My preference is the stock 750 surflex over ANYTHING else out there I also run 5 in my bike with a belt drive. IMHO the Barnett are to grabby and have bad spline wear on the plate. I don't like the bronze plates mostly because of the weight and are harder on the clutch hub but they will give you a rattle with a vented outer cover Ala Ducati.
 
bill said:
+ 1 on NOT using Barnett plates. I know Fred at old britts and mat at CNW likes to peddle this junk. My preference is the stock 750 surflex over ANYTHING else out there I also run 5 in my bike with a belt drive. IMHO the Barnett are to grabby and have bad spline wear on the plate. I don't like the bronze plates mostly because of the weight and are harder on the clutch hub but they will give you a rattle with a vented outer cover Ala Ducati.
Click to expand...

Do you use the 850 hardened center?
 
swooshdave said:
bill said:
+ 1 on NOT using Barnett plates. I know Fred at old britts and mat at CNW likes to peddle this junk. My preference is the stock 750 surflex over ANYTHING else out there I also run 5 in my bike with a belt drive. IMHO the Barnett are to grabby and have bad spline wear on the plate. I don't like the bronze plates mostly because of the weight and are harder on the clutch hub but they will give you a rattle with a vented outer cover Ala Ducati.
Click to expand...

Do you use the 850 hardened center?
Click to expand...


I still have the original 72 750 center with almost 50,000 miles and no sign of wear yet :D
 
I've got a Hayward belt drive with Barnett plates. I've done probably 10000 miles with this set up and it is great. No grab in the clutch, just nice smooth take up. I fitted a new clutch centre at the same time. I did take the teeth off one belt some thousands of miles ago, but that was, I'm sure, because I ran the belt too tight. I had the outer primary cover off the other day, just for a look, and everything was clean and sweet inside. The belt drive conversion is worth every cent. Smoother and with much less weight whizzing around, it's definitely a winner.
 
Fullauto - When the teeth on the belt stripped out... Did it leave you stranded?
 
What plates are you using? I've just refitted the original bronze ones to mine, but I've heard that the fibre ones are better.
Does this mean I'll have problems with the old plates?
Click to expand...
Maybe not but I have the Norvil BD with 4 Surflex, 4 steels and the thick std (750?) pressure plate. Venhill nylocable and it's 3 fingers with no slip. 20,000 miles on it now.
 
I guess I just meant with sprague's being a few hundred dollars I don't really trust the mk3 belt drives yet
 
batrider said:
Fullauto - When the teeth on the belt stripped out... Did it leave you stranded?
Click to expand...

Err, yep!

RGM Primary Belt Drive (2009)
 
L.A.B. said:
pelican said:
ahhh, if only there was a good mk3 belt conversion available
Click to expand...

You can certainly get belt drive kits for MkIIIs, even ones that allow you to keep the starter motor!

http://www.rgmmotors.co.uk/items.asp?ca ... ansmission, Belt Drives
BELTMK3SM
Click to expand...

Sure you can get MK3 belt kits but don't waste your money on them unless you are not using your electric starter. It simply won't last. The needle bearing and starter sprag on the crankshaft do need oil not only to lubricate but for the starter sprag washing the 'dogbones' preventing them to stick resulting in a slipping sprag. I built belt kits in two MK3 Commando's and built them back as well after a couple of thousand miles because of malfunctioning electric starters.
 
I am in the market for a belt drive / clutch kit for a 600cc, alternator, Domi based project.
My options seem to be Norvil, Andover or RGM.
Is there any consensus on which of these is the better product?
 
Just to add to the list I have a Bob Newby belt on my wideline ES2, nice bit of kit and he offers a range of front pulley sizes so that you can keep the original drive ratio. It comes with a full clutch.
 
FWIW, I’ve been using a Norvil kit cos that’s what was on the bike when I bought it.

It’s been fine, has handled my tuned motors output, many track events and several dyno sessions.

I fitted a new belt cos the P.O. had fitted one too short, it was like a bow string! It’s not needed adjusting since being fitted.

They offer a bewildering array of pulleys and belts so you can mix n match to achieve many different variables.

Don’t forget to convert to double adjusters whilst you’re at it.
 
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