I thoroughly agree, they are all an ugly solution. However, added to that in my opinion the RGM version is also an accident waiting to happen with it's elongated caliper mount holes. If you have already purchased it I would advise making shaped washers to prevent the bolts moving up or down those slotted holes. I bumped into one of our members this year at the Jurby festival who'd done that and made a very neat job of it. Unfortunately I've forgotten his name, but hopefully he'll read this and post some pictures. If you haven't already purchased it I would spend a few bob more and get the Norvil proddy racer slider from Andover Norton or Norvil. Or if budget is an issue get the Norvil adapter from Norvil. (still pigging ugly, but safer).
cliffa.
Except of course, not all discs are the same size! And not all of the pads made for the AP CP 2696 caliper have the friction material in exactly the same place related to the back plate retaining pin holes! (in general terms, just looking at the pads in my workshop, EBC and Ferodo pads can have the friction material around 3mm different in alignment!)
The slots are meant to allow you to place the caliper so that the pad friction material gets a full sweep of the pad track, and so that your caliper does not contact the disc.
But, the slots on the RGM bracket are very long, clearly to address a very wide variation in disc sizes.
I have slots on a commercially purchased bracket for one of my bikes, but they are much shorter, designed for just one disc size. Near enough for me to think this isn't an accident waiting to happen. But I can understand the concerns with the RGM bracket, that really is a long slot.
The 'simple' solution is to make your own bracket. This always sounds easier said than done, without a drawing or pattern, or without a drilling/milling machine.
One way forward is to use a slotted (RGM) bracket to get the caliper location you need, install and test it, then mark the caliper location. Mark out a suitable piece of aluminium plate using your pattern! (Sorry if you think £30 is a lot for a pattern, but in the scheme of things we have all spent more than that on parts we didn't use.)
Yes, personally I would also prefer the AN production racer fork leg, but would suggest that to make that installation work at it's best, you would need the matching correct diameter Norvil disc, probably in 5 stud fitting, unless you want to replace the whole wheel as well. And you may still have issues with suitable pad choices to take best advantage of it!
If you are going this far....and not building a race bike to restricted rules....look at Madass' 'modern' caliper and disc kit, it is probably the cheaper and more effective solution in the end!