RGM fron Isolastic

cyclegeezer · Sep 9, 2011

I just received a front Iso from Commando Specialties, the one advertised on their site as needing no machining to fit. The instructions are from RGM, so the setup is probably RGM's also. I'm having the devil's own time getting the unit back in the cradle after building it up. Any tips from those who have been there before? I'm doing the rear ones too, but decided to stick with the original kit for that one, I probably should have done the same for the front.

pete.v · Sep 9, 2011

Yes, I remember that. I don't recall what I did but I do know it was a bugger. Maybe pull the head steady with a foor jack under the motor to either raise or lower to find the sweet spot. I think I just pryed it in.

cyclegeezer · Sep 9, 2011

I pulled the head steady and still didn't find enough room to get the front iso unit back in. I'm considering removing the rear iso bolt and lowering the frame, pivoting on the upper steady to get some more room. Do you think that would work?

Hobot · Sep 9, 2011

I guess this means Commands are as unique as fingerprints with some 4 decades of scaring. Measure the distance between the flats of the front tabs and note if, ok how much they are unparallel. Assemble the isolastic in its mount, set .001" gap then measure its width- which better be parallel. Then you know what you are up against to either try to get fit by frame spread and tab indexing, ugh, ain't going to get at most a few .001's w/o serious jig type correction, &/or take some off the mount tube till can slip in w/o trauma. Only material from the RH side of mount is removed to retain the factory drive side alignment, unless that needs tweaking too.

Got a photo of the kit? Peel has their yoke and fork brace, both fit well.

jeffdavison · Sep 9, 2011

RUBBER THOR FROM THE BOTTOM UP.

JD

cyclegeezer · Sep 10, 2011

I finally got it installed, here's how it went. I pulled the head steady, removed the airbox, and jacked up the engine as far as possible without removing carburetors. I then had to remove the adjustable end of the iso and was able to put the iso unit in place. I had to remove the boot from the adjustable end and then was able to thread the adjuster back on the iso. After that I could snake the rubber boot back into place but not fully install it (no room). After placing the motor mount bolts in the iso unit I lowered the engine until I was able to push the iso center bolt back into place. Then much work involving getting the boot properly settled into the groove in the adjuster and around the outside of the iso unit. Conclusion: It would have been far easier to just replace the stock isolastic parts and shim it.

rpatton · Sep 10, 2011

All's well that ends well. Now you have adjustable iso's. When it comes to setting them, you might want to experiment with different clearances. Sometimes the 10 thou in the book isn't ideal for every bike, as far as vibration and handling goes.

cyclegeezer · Sep 10, 2011

rpatton said:
All's well that ends well. Now you have adjustable iso's. When it comes to setting them, you might want to experiment with different clearances. Sometimes the 10 thou in the book isn't ideal for every bike, as far as vibration and handling goes.

I'm going to start with the RGM suggestion, which results in 6 thousands clearance.

cash · Sep 10, 2011

I'm sure I jack the front of the frame up and the ISO just rolls in. :? Funny, I just do it and don't think how.
Don't forget when you tighten up the centre bolt there's a good chance the gap will close up. If so set a gap that you know will be too wide torque up the bolt and measure, slacken the bolt then set the final gap as shown in the work shop manual by rotating the adjuster a set amount.

Cash

DogT · Sep 10, 2011

As I remember on the front one it is easy to do completely removed from the frame. Rear one is something else.
http://www.members.shaw.ca/randell/isolastics.html

Dave
69S

cyclegeezer · Sep 10, 2011

DogT said:
As I remember on the front one it is easy to do completely removed from the frame. Rear one is something else.
http://www.members.shaw.ca/randell/isolastics.html

Dave
69S

I think you're right, if only I'd had the sense to just replace the iso with stock parts. Unfortunately I thought I needed the adjustable front iso and that turned out to be a grand adventure. I'm sticking with stock for the rear, they're enough trouble as it is.

DogT · Sep 10, 2011

I think the rear one is where we could use the adjustable one, I'm planning on getting the Hemmings adjusters at some point, but they come as a pair. I get way too much vibration (doesn't go away until 4K) with my stock ones shimmed at 0.010" and new rubbers and sleeves from Old Britts.

Dave
69S

Hobot · Sep 10, 2011

The rear iso hardly moves compared to the front so more forgiving in gap that the front one. I did't realize you were diddling the rear one in/out, just the front, both much easier with two guys so my respects getting 'er done. I'd set rear a tad under .010" and start off with front at .010".

FastFred · Sep 11, 2011

Mick Hemmings sold me one of his adjusters. Just ask, they are friendly and helpful unlike like Dick Emery...(you need to be British to understand that one).

DogT · Sep 11, 2011

FastFred said:
Mick Hemmings sold me one of his adjusters. Just ask, they are friendly and helpful unlike like Dick Emery...(you need to be British to understand that one).

Not really. You mean Les 'Emmorids?

Dave
69S

RGM fron Isolastic

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