RGM 13mm master cyl upgrade

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FastFred

FastFred

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Just doing above mofiication. Drilled and tapped for the new resleeve but I can't see thro' the front hole in the reservoir thro to the bore? Should I be able to do so and what diameter is it if I need to drill the crap out please? It's pretty small. Does it definitely go thro into the same mainm bore?
 
Fastfred,
whats involved in doing it yourself, I don't really want to send my MC away.
Terry
 
Terry
Basically strip out old piston etc - easy.
Mount it on an angle plate and true up the bore vertically - best using a 5/8inch mandrel.
Drill it with a 16.5mm drill to the base of the original bore.
Tap at least 7 threads M16.

You need to loan the kit off them for £25 which is returnable - they don't tell you this and these are big drills/tap.

Then clean and reassemble. It's easy. It self bleeds if you get the supplied piston pusher in the right position. I was lucky -right firtsd time. Get one and call me if you need help. PM me for mobile number.
Cheers
 
OK, so their loan Kit consists of 16mm taps (is that 3?) 16.5 drill. is the piston pusher part of the loan kit, some kind of jig, or just what the lever pushes on. I'm just trying to assess whether I need to borrow their kit, or if I can ponce the bits from work :wink:
Terry
 
Hi

The tap is 18m not 16m, I have just got the kit from RGM and have just read the instuctions, I have just put a Grimeca 12" floating disc and Grimeca caliper on my bike but after ordering the kit I decided to go for the Grimeca Master cylinder as well to kit it all the same.

Have had the new brakes on my Norton for just a few days now, very big inprovement from the old 36 year old Lockheed brakes, one finger operation and the bike now stops, well worth the $500 to upgrade and it also looks good on the bike.

Ashley
 
Hi

Its is a 18mm tap with 1.25 thread pitch so the bore has to be drilled with a 16.5 drill.

Ashley
 
Myford said:
is the piston pusher part of the loan kit, some kind of jig, or just what the lever pushes on.
Click to expand...

The 'piston pusher' is part of the 13mm conversion kit and it fits between the hand lever and piston.
 
BEWARE!!!
If the piston pusher is not ground-adjusted to allow full retraction of piston to uncover the pressure relief hole then when sitting in summer sun or during longer braking use the fluid can heat and expand and lock the brake up w/o a hand touching the lever. I discovered this leaving for Ohio after parking 30 miles away from home and tried to leave but instead fell over. Took a while to figure out the issue and solved in by hand grinding the spacer on sidewalk till brake stayed released, but don't want to take off anymore than minimum of lose some of the lever travel on full brake pressure. I put a ball cap and cold rag on master cylinder when inside eating, just in case I'd not got quite enough removed. I'd done a lot of racing around and hard braking the spring prior w/o an issue just for flavor of how it might happen to surprise you too.
 
Thanks for the advice guys, I'll buy a kit this summer ready to fit this winter.
Terry
 
Interesting Hobot. Mine came with an adjustable piston pusher with a lock nut. I guessed the position and it worked and the tightened the nut. It did cross my mind if that nut came undone. Of course whoever designed it didn't put any flats on the cylindrical part to resist the nut tightening torque; that would have been far too obvious. I will remove and loctite when bike is running again (top end rebuild ongoing) and all is functioning well.

Hobot, was yours an earlier one without adjustment or did you just grind the end to get home?
 
FastFred said:
Interesting Hobot. Mine came with an adjustable piston pusher with a lock nut. I guessed the position and it worked and the tightened the nut. It did cross my mind if that nut came undone. Of course whoever designed it didn't put any flats on the cylindrical part to resist the nut tightening torque; that would have been far too obvious.

Does not holding the other end with an Allen Key solve that problem? :mrgreen:
Click to expand...
 
This all sounds a lot more complicated than the RGM kit I used about 10 years ago. The sleeve had to be Araldited into the original m/c bore, a very small by-pass hole drilled and that was it, job done. Works very well but is a bit of a bugger to bleed to start with though!
Dave.
 
Re:

Does not holding the other end with an Allen Key solve that problem?
Click to expand...

Do you have one of these as mine didn't have an allen head anywhere? Sorry to dissapoint and shatter your moment of superiorness. :P

The later one I bought taps into the m/cyl whereas the first ones must have been loctited.
 
Fred,
I inadvertently assumed they all came like mine with the recessed Allen Head. Never assume of course is one of the golden rules! I am sure you could obtain a updated replacement from RGM for peanuts if you needed it. :mrgreen:
 
I'll let you off! It sounds like the design changes quite a bit but it's a good bit of kit. Cheers.
 
Just got a kit from RGM and a bit worried.

The rubber washer they supply is nitrile.
Nitrile is not compatible with glycol based brake fluid :!:
 
Phone Roger up at RGM and ask. i just got mine from there and it says just use DOT4 which I did. But then I hear yesterday froma Ducati guy that htere is synthetic and non-snth DOT 4. Confused, I am.. I thought only 5.1 was synthetic?
 
While I accept that Andover's option is a better way of improving the brake and we all know to whom JS refers, would he explain exactly how the modification is dangerous. I have had one in use for 5 years and 18k now. I understand the sleeve is screwed in place after drilling the cylinder so how can it move (which is the explanation I have heard) unless it self screws in further or unscrews thus blocking ports? I am concerned but probably not enough (since I have had good service from the mod) to shell out on the AN option.
 
Keith,
Andover Norton is AP Lockheed distributor. We have spoken to AP about this modification who threw their hands up in horror. I once bought a sleeve just to look at and my natural politeness forbids me to repeat what my friend Rudi- qualified as a master toolmaker- had to say about it from the purely technical point of view. We binned it straight away. Therefore I don't have it any more, so don't know if it is the current version. Let us just say the AP people convinced us as a reputable company interested in keeping product liability insurance rate down (and customers in good health) we don't want to touch a conversion of that sort. We therefore use a fully approved and tested complete master cylinder of smaller bore from a reputable manufacturer.
Joe Seifert
 
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