reversed camplate

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reversed camplate


hi, may be i am idiot, but here is the pic of a reverse camplate , and I am still wondering why it is not possible to press out the spindle and press in through the other face?? I had already pointed that out , and it seems there were two camps , that one ( the simple way!) and those who saying it's not the job , but that you need to grind the notches, on the opposite side ....???
Apart of that , Merry Christmas !
 
marinatlas said:
reversed camplate


hi, may be i am idiot, but here is the pic of a reverse camplate , and I am still wondering why it is not possible to press out the spindle and press in through the other face?? I had already pointed that out , and it seems there were two camps , that one ( the simple way!) and those who saying it's not the job , but that you need to grind the notches, on the opposite side ....???
Apart of that , Merry Christmas !
I believe this is a bone stock camplate. A reversed camplate will have the notches on the opposite hemisphere from the side with the little hole, not just flopped over.
 
pvisseriii said:
marinatlas said:
reversed camplate


hi, may be i am idiot, but here is the pic of a reverse camplate , and I am still wondering why it is not possible to press out the spindle and press in through the other face?? I had already pointed that out , and it seems there were two camps , that one ( the simple way!) and those who saying it's not the job , but that you need to grind the notches, on the opposite side ....???
Apart of that , Merry Christmas !
I believe this is a bone stock camplate. A reversed camplate will have the notches on the opposite hemisphere from the side with the little hole, not just flopped over.


Not so, I just traced the cam plate I have downstairs, and compared it doing the paper/light trick, and the only difference is the location of the neutral notch.
 
marinatlas said:
Hi , could you post a pic of yours ...........?
I do not have one but this was sent to me when I had the interest.

The one on the right is stock and one on the left is reversable.
reversed camplate
 
marinatlas said:
reversed camplate


hi, may be i am idiot, but here is the pic of a reverse camplate , and I am still wondering why it is not possible to press out the spindle and press in through the other face?? I had already pointed that out , and it seems there were two camps , that one ( the simple way!) and those who saying it's not the job , but that you need to grind the notches, on the opposite side ....???
Apart of that , Merry Christmas !

Reversing the camplate can be done in these two ways:
1: Grind 5 new notches in opposite side and leave the spindle.
2: Weld up the neutral notch and grind new neutral notch between 3 and 4 gear notch AND remove the spindle plus replace in the other face.
Just moving the spindle to the other face is unfortunately no option.
 
Couldn't you simply grind the neutral notch between third and fourth and reverse the drive without any welding. The bike should glide through the old neutral notch on it's way past the new 3 rd to 4th position in the same way it does between first and second in the standard set up. My worry is that welding up the old notch may either distort it or else destroy the heat treatment on the plate.
 
If you Arc Weld it , and dump it in oil when its dull red , should be no problems . And quench repeatably when grinding , to keep temp. low .

Some ancient :? Triumphs had a light neutral indent on edge of camplate between all gears ( not as deep as the 'true 'neutral @ 1 - 2 gap .
One these suckers you can slip them in netral between Ea Gear , if you like coasting down hills . Unfortunately , if your foot taps the lever it
slips into the next gear that way . Otherwise quite safe to hold the neutral . If theres a slight notch at the lever between gears , thats why ,
on a Triumph .
 
dave M said:
Couldn't you simply grind the neutral notch between third and fourth and reverse the drive without any welding. The bike should glide through the old neutral notch on it's way past the new 3 rd to 4th position in the same way it does between first and second in the standard set up. My worry is that welding up the old notch may either distort it or else destroy the heat treatment on the plate.

If you don't like to weld up the neutral notch a good alternative is to flatten the hump between 1 and 2 gear until the neutral notch is gone.
 
The simplest way to reverse the change direct ion is to cross the linkage over the front of the box, or reverse the gear lever, and use rear set footrests, and hinged kick start. Won't work for a TTI box because it is too long .
 
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