Replacing the Cush Rubbers

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Replacing the Cush Rubbers

The victim

Replacing the Cush Rubbers

They seemed to be doing their job, I guess.

Replacing the Cush Rubbers

The old ones were looking pretty rough, so I had a new set from Old Britts waiting for me to find some time to put them in. I had new brake shoe ready to go since I'd be in that deep to the rear wheel.

Replacing the Cush Rubbers

As has been mentioned the old rubber were just that, rubbery. The new one are something more similar to polyeurathane. I hope Joe can chime in with the details of what the originals were made of and why the change. You can deform the old one with your fingers, not so much the new ones.

I had to tap the new ones in with a mallet.

Replacing the Cush Rubbers

Once the wheel was back in position there was no easy way to get the spacer back in. I discovered that if I put the spacer to the side and tightened the axle it pulled the brake tangs into the cush rubbers. I then pulled the axle back out and was able (with more effort) get the spacer back in. No need to sand or shave the cush rubbers down at all. I just had a little WD40 as a light lubricant.

Replacing the Cush Rubbers

Replacing the Cush Rubbers


All back together.

Next project is instrument lights, waiting for a package this week.
 
Hey Dave
I have had the same issues with the fit up of the new cush-drive rubbers as well. I used my belt sander to bring the width of the blocks so it was easier to fit the drum tabs to the wheel.
Regards,
CNN
 
Funny thing, just did mine after the brake jambed on and cooked the shoes and cush drives, they melted and dribbled out of the drum. Bugger to get the wheel back on until they are seated, aren't they!
Good idea with the space swoosh, quite a juggle to hold the wheel up and fit all the spacers and speedo drive etc.

Cheers Rich
 
CanukNortonNut said:
Hey Dave
I have had the same issues with the fit up of the new cush-drive rubbers as well. I used my belt sander to bring the width of the blocks so it was easier to fit the drum tabs to the wheel.
Regards,
CNN

I would be very nervous about changing the dimensions of these pieces. Once they bed in there is a chance of some play. Which would be bad. I figured it would be best to force them in.
 
I coated mine with a good rubber lube & it took some ummph but they went in. I wouldn't use a petrolium based lube as it will just eat the up.
 
swooshdave said:
Replacing the Cush Rubbers

The victim

Replacing the Cush Rubbers

They seemed to be doing their job, I guess.

Replacing the Cush Rubbers

The old ones were looking pretty rough, so I had a new set from Old Britts waiting for me to find some time to put them in. I had new brake shoe ready to go since I'd be in that deep to the rear wheel.

Replacing the Cush Rubbers

As has been mentioned the old rubber were just that, rubbery. The new one are something more similar to polyeurathane. I hope Joe can chime in with the details of what the originals were made of and why the change. You can deform the old one with your fingers, not so much the new ones.

I had to tap the new ones in with a mallet.

Replacing the Cush Rubbers

Once the wheel was back in position there was no easy way to get the spacer back in. I discovered that if I put the spacer to the side and tightened the axle it pulled the brake tangs into the cush rubbers. I then pulled the axle back out and was able (with more effort) get the spacer back in. No need to sand or shave the cush rubbers down at all. I just had a little WD40 as a light lubricant.

Replacing the Cush Rubbers

Replacing the Cush Rubbers


All back together.

Next project is instrument lights, waiting for a package this week.
Likewise, I got a set, they are hard like urethane. Different than every cush drive rubber I've ever seen. I'm thinking the softer durometer would be a better choice.
 
concours said:
Likewise, I got a set, they are hard like urethane. Different than every cush drive rubber I've ever seen. I'm thinking the softer durometer would be a better choice.

Andover is saying that they've been using the hard black polyurethane (90-95 Shore) for at least 20 years. You don't wan't much movement in the rear wheel, just soft enough to absorb the impact but not give.
 
swooshdave said:
concours said:
Likewise, I got a set, they are hard like urethane. Different than every cush drive rubber I've ever seen. I'm thinking the softer durometer would be a better choice.

Andover is saying that they've been using the hard black polyurethane (90-95 Shore) for at least 20 years. You don't wan't much movement in the rear wheel, just soft enough to absorb the impact but not give.

I guess, there is a much smaller area than most designs
 
Replacing the Cush Rubbers


I have put new rubbers on my commando and these tools are what i used to help ge the spacer in with very little problems. I used 2 of them, 180 deg appart, tighten at the same time until the spacer drops into place.
 
Powereng03 said:
Replacing the Cush Rubbers


I have put new rubbers on my commando and these tools are what i used to help ge the spacer in with very little problems. I used 2 of them, 180 deg appart, tighten at the same time until the spacer drops into place.

I used those too.
 
I had the same problem. Luckily, my wife who works out and is very strong, was able to help. I pulled from the brake side while holding the assembly together, and she pushed from the opposite side until there was enough room to squeeze the spacer in. From there I was able to tap it in to place and get the axle in.
 
jamesp said:
I had the same problem. Luckily, my wife who works out and is very strong, was able to help. I pulled from the brake side while holding the assembly together, and she pushed from the opposite side until there was enough room to squeeze the spacer in. From there I was able to tap it in to place and get the axle in.

There's one lady I don't want to mess with! :mrgreen:
 
Swooshdave
Since your initial post and the similar tight fit-up of the new cush rubbers between your bike and mine.... I discovered some interesting findings with my situation. I purchased a brand new drum sprocket that I machined to fit a 520 X ring chain and basically rebuilt the entire wheel. Spokes, Rim, Wheel Bearings, Drum sprocket, cush rubbers and such. With the same situation of the spacer, I got curious. :idea: I took my wheel off again and checked the length of the paddles on the drum against the depth of the sockets which they live in and found that the paddles are longer. That means that when tightened up this will lock on to the aluminium at the bottom of the socket of the wheel hub as apposed to being free to move against the cush rubbers. Did you find the same situation with yours? I am not too sure if your drum is new? I wonder if that’s why there are broken axels or bearings that get turfed? Anyone else have this situation happen?
CNN
 
I have seen this before. Tell me, did you spend $90 rather than $160 or so? These Eco parts are made in India I think. It is not a big deal to trim these lugs down with an angle grinder to bring things home.
 
CanukNortonNut said:
Pvisseriii
No I paid about $134 at BCS. 06-2764
CNN
$134 is still a bargain price. Little matter now. How do the lugs on the new sprocket measure up to the old?
 
Hi pvisseriii
The "Old hub" is about 0.916" average length and new = 1.012" average. therefore difference of 0.096"
enough to cause problems don't you think? :shock:
CNN
 
CanukNortonNut said:
Hi pvisseriii
The "Old hub" is about 0.916" average length and new = 1.012" average. therefore difference of 0.096"
enough to cause problems don't you think? :shock:
CNN
.096 or 3/32 is apparently enough to cause an issue.
 
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