Replacing Oil Tank

BrianK · Aug 26, 2014

How big of a bear is this? I just read on another thread that the bottom bolt is the "second most difficult one to get in or out on the bike" (who's on first, BTW?).

Any tips from those who've been there and done that?

Thanks all - BrianK

texasSlick · Aug 26, 2014

I vote for the lower bolt on an Atlas /Dommie magneto as all time hardest, booger bear, dammitall fastener.

kernel65 · Aug 26, 2014

I used a 1/4" drive set with two 6" extension to get the bottom mounting bolt coming at it from below at an angle from between the exhaust and frame if that makes sense. Small drive sockets fit easier in those tight places. Also I removed the feed side banjo/screen assembly while is was still in the bike. After a few times the hardest part will be getting the filler neck out from between the frame tubes.

Scott

Hobot · Aug 26, 2014

All's I know is the horn mount bolt is not as hard as accessing and removing what's required to expose this leak causing quasi fastener. Hoses can be a hassle too. Facing taking rear fender off is what puts me off the most. A bit of puzzling to twist out of frame. I ended up with a proper thick rubber pad with a hole in center for the oil tank bottom bolt boss. With tank out eye ball it for an oil temp sender for fun.

BrianK · Aug 26, 2014

Thanks guys.

Rear fender has to come off? I've been told the tank can come out through the right side of the frame....not sure if that's right but I'm sure hoping it is! :?

Hobot · Aug 26, 2014

I could only take my '72 tanks out the rear but you may be better puzzler than me or have a model that allows side exit.

kernel65 · Aug 27, 2014

I took mine out the right side of the frame. Hobot made a good comment about the air filter backing plate. Mine does not have one installed so I'm not sure if that has to come off or not.

BrianK · Aug 27, 2014

Thanks folks. I'm running K&N pods on FCR carbs so hope springs eternal that the rear fender can stay in place. This is a winter project but I'll report back once I tackle it. - BrianK

Hobot · Aug 27, 2014

Ok Brian and Kern, I've got Peel frame out in yard and her old oil tank in shed so easy enough to see if a '72 can leave fender on & if battery tray or air filter box fouls the puzzler. I try it and get back later today with knowledge some can do it so why not me.

DavidT · Aug 27, 2014

On my '72 it comes out with a little turning and twisting. Never had to disturb the mudguard, but again I don't have the air filter plate.
Regards,
David

Hobot · Aug 27, 2014

Ok then as I hate close quarters tangled mechanics so i'll wait to hear whats in the way on this particular oil tank removal.

toppy · Aug 27, 2014

I don't have bottom bolt holding oil tank it just rests on a rubber pad. After undoing the two top rubber mountings an removing oil feed bango an other pipes it just comes out with bit of twisting. Mine is a 74 850 with ham can air filter which is 1/8 of inch closer to oil tank (moved back by modifying battery tray to help when installing filter on carbs) an it goes in an out no problem without taking anything else off. But if you try with tank filter cap on it wont go on or off so space is tight but no need to take half the bike apart.

Nater_Potater · Aug 27, 2014

kernel65 said:
I used a 1/4" drive set with two 6" extension to get the bottom mounting bolt coming at it from below at an angle from between the exhaust and frame if that makes sense. Small drive sockets fit easier in those tight places. Also I removed the feed side banjo/screen assembly while is was still in the bike. After a few times the hardest part will be getting the filler neck out from between the frame tubes.

Scott

Same here, except the filler neck. On my '74, the extension runs up between the frame and the swingarm. And, as Scott points out, remove the inlet banjo first. The air filter rear plate is still intact on mine, and I don't remember it being a hindrance.
This is probably another one of those instances where tolerance stacking and/or assembly crew caused enough variations between units to make them all different in their own special way.

Nathan

Saddlesaw · Aug 28, 2014

......or just remove the Z plate...

I agree it's the second hardest bolt to put pack in . It was much easier to take out!

While there tighten the horn bolts...they are the hardest. I have a view that they suspended the horn in mid air and built the Commando around it....

BrianK · Sep 22, 2015

Anybody know the bolt size (I mean what size socket to remove)? This never got done last winter. Maybe this one. Thanks

Torontonian · Sep 22, 2015

Horn bolt guaranteed swearings in the dark. Stoopid Oil tank bolt just skinned knuckles, wigglings . Fun. Both really dirty and greasy.

MikeM · Sep 23, 2015

I removed the tank on my '71 I know I didnt take the fender off but it was much wiggling and jiggling to get it out. I dont remember the exact process. It seemed simple but was not.

maylar · Sep 23, 2015

The bolt is a 1/4-28, so the hex should be 7/16" or 3/16 Whit

BrianK · Sep 23, 2015

Thanks Dave

nortryder · Oct 9, 2015

I've mine out on my 71 and it wasn't too bad. I remember reading some way to modify the mounting so that it didn't need the bottom bolt. Of course I can't remember where I read it now. Sigh. I'm getting ready to remove one of a different bike. Looking forward to it.

Replacing Oil Tank

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