Removing Gearbox

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Mar 9, 2011
Messages
47
Hi Everyone - hope you all had a great Christmas! One question - I have to remove the gearbox from my 1974 850 to re-build. Do you have to remove the entire primary case ( meaning inner and outer) or can you just remove the outer, clutch. primary chain and drive chain? Also, Do you have to remove the center-stand for clearance? Thanks guys! :?:
 
Yes you will have to remove the complete primary case. Centre stand can stay though.
 
swooshdave said:
Doesn't he have to loosen the engine too?

Indeed he will have to tilt the engine backwards (over the top engine/cradle bolt) to clear the bottom cradle gap to gain access for the gearbox shell.
 
Thanks for your advice - So I guess since the engine has to be tilted, removing the exhuast as a first step is required. Also, if I wanted to make my own engine sprocket puller, does anyone know what length and Whitworth thread bolts are required for the sproket? The real tool part number is 064297 as per the shop manual. :?:
 
Oakland850 said:
Also, if I wanted to make my own engine sprocket puller, does anyone know what length and Whitworth thread bolts are required for the sproket? The real tool part number is 064297 as per the shop manual.

The engine sprocket extractor thread should be 5/16" UNF, not Whitworth. The bolt length will ultimately depend on the thickness extractor 'plate' or 'beam' used, the bolts supplied as part of my 064297 extractor are 4 inches long.
 
Definitely put some good heat on the crank sprocket before trying to apply full torque on the puller as I've had two pullers break when I didn't, one a wimpy steering wheel puller and the other a big fat robust puller built similar to the factory over built kind. Steering wheel puller broke on tightening, the other just snapped while looking at it waiting for heat to hit. No I didn't hit puller with flame.

Removing Gearbox


Removing Gearbox


On Peel Combat with the low breather baffle removed to TS case, all I had to do was tip g-box forward CW to slip it right out. On Trixie Combat with the low baffle in place, I had to remove stuff to tip engine forward to clear the baffle to remove gb. I've done this bike on center stand or hung by sky hook, and bike didn't fall in half.
 
Didn't I see someone use the foot peg where it mounts on the z plate as a puller for the sprocket? Or was that for something else?

Dave
69S
 
May come without tipping the engine on a pre-MKIII. Mine, on my MKIII came out easier than expected though it makes good sense to loosen the engine mountings and re-tighten checking isolastics and alignment as you re-assemble.
 
If I have to pull a big sprocket off a taper, I usually tighten the puller up until it has some stretch in it then give the centre bolt one sharp tap with a hammer. I don't use heat unless I suspect some idiot has used loctite on the taper.
 
For me the heat from a heat gun works pretty good. At least the last time, I put some tension on the puller, gave it about 3 minutes of heat and it popped right off, and it was my installation, no locktite. No whacking on the end of the crank either. But it had been off within the last year too.

Dave
69S
 
Does anyone have a drawing of how to modify the cradle so one doesn't have to tear the bike apart to remove the gearbox? '74 Cdo in particular.
 
Upper left corner, this is the alloy cradle I made, you will see an area that has been notched out. This allows the transmission enough clearance to be removed. I think it is about an inch worth.
Removing Gearbox


Here is how the opening looked before for reference.
Removing Gearbox
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top