Rectifier relocation for tool tray

I was thinking about using a Mark2 tool tray in my 72 for the extra space. The rectifier and flasher would need to move. The flasher is easy to deal with but not too many places to put the rectifier. How much in the open air can I get away with if I lower down enough to clear the tray. It would be kind of exposed. Any thoughts.

beefco said:

I was thinking about using a Mark2 tool tray in my 72 for the extra space. The rectifier and flasher would need to move. The flasher is easy to deal with but not too many places to put the rectifier.

Click to expand...

The factory simply moved the rectifier to the front of the frame plate.

Maybe like a zenor on back side of Z plate or backside of spinal butt gusset or on its own tap on back side of '72 tray

I thought about mounting it to the front side of the tube but then you start to get in the way of the side cover mount. Anybody know how hot the rectifier gets while running. I could mount to the tray if I run a good ground.

You could update to a modern regulator and get rid of it completely.

Russ

You can do what Norton did on the 850 Mark IIA and later 850 Mark III . The rectifier is mounted on a rectifier bracket (part no. 064974) http://www.nortonmotors.de/ANIL/Norton Website/norton/parts-list.php?Model=n850_e&Plate=031&Part=25 you can also see the parts breakdown for the 850 Mark III on andover norton's website figure 25 on the electrical part section.

I have seen pictures of later 850 Mark II's where the turn signal flasher and the rectifier are mounted on the front side of the frame plate. The rectifier is mounted in such a way so that instead of the terminals facing straight down, they are are angled about 45 degrees. It looks weird, but it works. Also make sure that the screw that holds the flasher bracket is as short as practical. Otherwise, the screw may wear a hole in your battery tray. Ask me how I know!

Try to get the Mark IIA battery tray, part number 064173, instead of the Mark III battery tray. The Mark III tray has a slotted hole in the side that gives clearance for the seat latch, while the Mark IIA does not. When you get a new tray, you will probably think it looks rather cheap/flimsy, but mine is an original and it is still serviceable.

You may want to put some Mylar tape on the fender and possibly the frame rails where the tool tray rests because the tool tray does scuff the fender.

Lucas charging system is fairly clever design if rather anemic so the rectfier fins hardly get warm and don't need heat stink mounting so could zip tie under spinal tube out of the way of eye and clutter if ya want to. The Pondtronic or the Tympanic rec/reg are more tidy than separated zener and reg but more efficient less wiring so gives a few more watts to spare but harder to hide from distracting non factory component.

This morning I tried checking to see if the Mark IIA/III rectifier plate would work with a side panel that has a tool box tray. It won't work. Bad idea because the rectifier hits the rear flange of the side panel. That explains why Norton didn't use that plate with the standard Mark II's. So go with mounting the rectifier right on top of the side panel bracket.

The Mark IIA and Mark II, etc. all use the same wiring harness. All you need to do is shift the wiring harness forward so that the wiring branch for the signal light flasher, rectifier and brake light wires branch out forward of the frame plate. Of course the wiring harness has taken a 'set' so it may take a little jockeying around to get it in place.

I have a Mk2 with a rectifier bracket and a standard side panel with a tool tray. Roadster dress. It all fit together just fine before I tore the bike down. Whether I ever get it back together again is still being debated.

Russ

Hummmnn. This shouldn't be that hard to accompish. The wireing harness is certainly set and does not want to move much. If the capasiter were not there the rectifier could flip onto that side. The lower mount does get in the way of the side cover. I am understang why guys are using sunglass cases instaed of the tray.

On a side note. I bought one of the smaller cylider shaped leather tail bags from India off of Ebay for $9.99 + $24.95shipping. I got it in 3 days from India to Seattle. It attaches to the grab rail and fills in that void between the seat and tail light real well. It is really an awesome bag. Really well made. It will hold gloves, windbreaker etc. Much better deal than synthetic fork bags at the local shop.

FWIW-strip the old tape off the wiring harness and chances are you will find out it is still pliable. Just move it to the new location and wrap new tape on it!

Russ