Rearsets

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Cheesehead Commando

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Next order of business for my "74 Commando is rearsets. I am looking to move the footpegs back to a more proper riding position that will work with the Magura bars that are on the bike, which have about a 1 inch rise. I really don't want full rearsets, if you will, but something more along the lines of "setbacks" if such a thing exists. I had a pair from Norman Hyde on a previous Commando that seemed a bit too far back, and also got in the way of the kickstarter. Does anyone know of a set that may fit this general description?
 
Don't know of any that aren't full rearsets. I have the Mick Hemmings, same as sold by Old Britts http://www.oldbritts.com/ob_start.html look under Parts-Old Britts Groups- frame - riders footrests, linkage type etc). They are comfy even with std seat and retain the brake switch which I like. Linkages are sloppy especially the gear change but replacing the clevises with rod ends and shimming the pivot makes a big difference. Will clear 750 kickstart but not Mk3 850 which I have on my 750. Loop needs bending. See pics on photobucket account white bike.
 
Try making your own, I made these to suit my gammy knee and hip.
Cash

Rearsets

Rearsets
 
Cash, those pegs are really neat. I find most of the rear set pegs made for the Commando were designed to mount on the rearmost hole in the Z plate, which is too far back except for racing. I made/adapted rear sets using a plate of the same shape as the flange on the standard footrests, and mounting the pegs in the middle of the new plates (see pics), thereby moving the footpegs about an inch or so further forward. I find this is a nice position for me, and I'm using the same bars as yours.

I'm using John Tickle footpegs and swan neck gear lever, and these pics were taken as a work in progress, before I cleaned up the welds and polished everything properly. The inch or so further forward makes a big difference ergonomically and works well in town and on the open road. The kickstart lever doesn't interfere with my shin and the gear change is good. You can also alter the travel of the gearshift pedal and the lever effort by moving the rod end joints up or down on either of the levers.

Rearsets



Rearsets

[/img]
 
A novel approach seen at the International Norton Rally in Australia earlier this year

Rearsets
 
cash -

I really like your conversion. I might do EXACTLY that to my 880.

How much hassle was it to fit up that master cylinder?
 
What are the kick starts you guys are using in your photos,some more photos might stimulate some more ideas, I hate buying something off the shelf when I could build it for twice the price.
 
How much hassle was it to fit up that master cylinder?
Click to expand...

Grandpaul,

The hardest part was chopping up a Honda 200 rear brake lever and shaping it to fit (It has a Mk3 pedal welded on). The master cylinder and reservoir are mounted together on a plate that bolts to the back of the Z plate. I'm sure it could be made simpler and better but it works.
The kickstart lever is from a T160, I have used levers from the CB750 Honda and early 750 Suzuki (a good solid lever) without problem.

Pleased you guys like it.
Thanks,
Cash
 
daveh,would you be able to post a photo of how your rear brake rod fits onto the back wheel please.
 
Cheaper than you think

splatt said:
What are the kick starts you guys are using in your photos,some more photos might stimulate some more ideas, I hate buying something off the shelf when I could build it for twice the price.
Click to expand...

Not counting many trips to the welder, mine did not cost that much. I bought two Honda 750 kick start levers for $30, the Norton kickstarters were in my junk box and welding cost about $30 for the three times I had it done. The first one I made was not stepped out enough :oops: so I cut it apart and had it rewelded, I then made a second one stepped out a lot more and this one is the one I will be using. My first is in the custody of a friend who may buy it off me. Next order of business is chroming, that will push up the price quite a bit, but in the end, it may be cheaper than buying a new stock Norton kick start lever.

Jean
 
Splatt, here are some pics of the rear brake lever set up, which is still at experimental stage. I made the lever from stainless steel plate. Before this, I used the RGM alloy lever, which has a floating pin that the brake rod goes through. I wasn't happy with it, because the lever flexed and, after a few hundred miles, the RGM lever had a slight twist from the braking pressure applied. I wanted this set up to be as rigid as possible, because the rear brake needs all the help it can get. The 1/4" UNF rod end joints can accommodate any lateral movement from the isolastics and eliminate 'slop'. I adapted the RGM 1/4" brake rod that comes with his rear brake kit. I made the lever slightly longer than the RGM lever for added leverage and cut the slot for the spindle very carefully by hand, but it could be made easily with a milling machine. The brake is now a lot sharper. I need to work on making it more easily adjustable. A left- and right-hand threaded knurled adjuster on the rod could work.

Rearsets


Rearsets


Jean, your folding kickstart lever is neat!
 
daveh said:
Jean, your folding kickstart lever is neat!
Click to expand...

Thanks, in french there is a saying "jamais deux sans trois" which means "never twice, but three times" this about sums up what I have been doing for the last three years. I do something once, redo it better and many times do it yet again until it is right. Fortunately, many times it only involves time and no expensive parts.

Happy holidays

Jean
 
Thanks guys,I Like Cash's footpegs & your guys folding kickers. If I have got this correct you're cutting a standard kicker & welding an adapter block on to 2 faces so that it still clamps up. Thanks for the other photos to. The oz designs tasty isn't it?, one of those kiwis probably flew it in. Don't forget to buy your bike something for christmas but don't tell mum or you'll get the` you think more about that bike than me', yes dear.
 
Ya know what?, I was going to go thru that whole "rear set" gag, but I decided not to, for two reasons: First, they detract from the classic period look of the bike (the original is a beautiful cantilevered foot rest, of classic design and compliments the bikes character) Secondly, they are pricey and often appear "shoddy" in manufacture. IMO
 
If I ever sell my Commando, I will return it to the elegantly styled standard footrests. In the meantime, I want to use my bike not just in town but also on the open road. If only the beautiful factory footrests weren't so uncomfortable at anything over 50 mph...
 
Careful on the kiwi jokes !! its nearly christmas and we could be quite sensitive . yeah right!!! (wink wink)
 
I have dragged this one back to ask if anyone could post a photo of how the std brake cable attaches to rear set peddle,Iwas going to change to a rod set up but for looks might just keep the cable,thanks :idea:
 
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