rear wheel torque

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colin davie

colin davie

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Jun 16, 2018
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Morning all
I have a copy of all the torque settings for my Commando mk2a from Old Britts and the rear wheel dummy spindle or stub axle and the spindle itself is said to be 80 ft lb,
that seems high ? , is this correct and is the procedure for re-assembly to tighten up the dummy spindle first whilst centering up the drum by applying the rear brake then the long spindle ?
all suggestions welcome
Colin
 
Can't comment on the torque as never used a torque wrench on that nut, I put one foot on the brake pedal to centralise the brake plate and then use a full length whitworth ring spanner on the nut and heave. I do that on the basis that is the same spanner I have in the toolkit and then I can be sure I can undo the nut on the road. As for order then yes, brakeplate nut first and then full spindle from other side.
 
Yep I use the same "torque setting" - real tight with a 'standard length' 1/2" drive ratchet:)
 
80 sounds like way too much. I did snap a rear axle long ago putting the Fear Of God into it with a long spanner. Now I use a ratchet like Mike.
Realize that the tool for that supplied with the bike from the factory was just a stamped steel box wrench.
 
While we're on the subject: Regards the Don Pender, 0ne-piece stainless steel axle. Of those who are using it...what torque setting are you using and do you use never-seize? Stainless on stainless and high torque don't mix well.
 
My modern bikes have 100nm (approx = 75ft-lb) and having tried with a torque wrench to calibrate my wrist on those 75ft-lb is way tighter than i have ever done my 850.
I follow kommando and MexicoMike's method, but with a ring spanner.
 
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