Rear master cylinder bleeding MK3?

Does anyone know any tricks to bleeding this? I have tried the normal way with no luck, and have tried bleeding from the caliper forward with the same results. The way the lines are ran seems like an odd design (master lower than the caliper and brake light switch way lower). I have Norman Hyde rear-sets if that makes a difference. Eventually, I'm going to bypass all the lines with a stainless one straight to the caliper, but in the mean time, any ideas?

Using a hand-pump brake vacuum works really well.

That's what I was using when I was bleeding from the caliper, but still couldn't get the all the air out of the system. I probably pulled a pint of brake fluid through the system to no avail.

The two best ways I've found over the years are to pressure bleed or gravity bleed. Never had too good results with the vacuum pump. I have a friend who restores Moto Guzzis and he gravity bleeds everything. Anything with ABS I pressure bleed.

JimC said:

The two best ways I've found over the years are to pressure bleed or gravity bleed. Never had too good results with the vacuum pump. I have a friend who restores Moto Guzzis and he gravity bleeds everything. Anything with ABS I pressure bleed.

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+1

http://www.jegs.com/i/Motive+Products/7 ... 4AodhRYAeg

Regarding the pressure bleeding-- I was using a syringe to push the fluid from the caliper to the master as well. Would that suffice as well as the motion pro pressure system?

A very inexpensive pressure bleed system can be built with a small capacity weed sprayer. The kind you pressurize. It does need a modified master cylinder cover. One with a barbed nipple to attach the hose from the weed sprayer. I've been able to find inexpensive master cylinder covers in junk yards or eBay. As for gravity bleeding, just make sure you don't let the master cylinder run dry or you'll have to start all over.