Rear Isolastic Shimming

Hey Guys,

I'm shimming the rear Iso's on my 71 and am having a hard time getting the cup/cap/cover assembly back in place on the right side, as per the manual. I just can seem to push the wheel far enough over to make enough room.
Any tricks from those more experienced in this?

thanks!

Donald

It has been a while but it seems to me it involved jacking the frame or the cradle to cause enough misalignment to get the pieces in there. I am kinda thinking that I used a come-along from the shop ceiling to raise the frame while blocking up the cradle.

Russ

rvich said:

It has been a while but it seems to me it involved jacking the frame or the cradle to cause enough misalignment to get the pieces in there. I am kinda thinking that I used a come-along from the shop ceiling to raise the frame while blocking up the cradle.

Russ

Click to expand...

What Russ said. The headsteady has to come off, air cleaner or 's.
I'd drop the rear wheel to lighten it up, the fender and battery box and the oil tank, so you have total access to the iso's.
Then you can lower the engine, trans, cradle assm. to clear the iso mounts.
It's a bitch, I know.

I got mine on with the bike on the centrestand and a jack under the engine. It would probably help if you took off the headsteady mount, if you haven't already, and leave the front one loose, at least the bolt. I got the Hemmings adjusters on this way.

Dave
69S

Dave said:

I got mine on with the bike on the centrestand and a jack under the engine. It would probably help if you took off the headsteady mount, if you haven't already, and leave the front one loose, at least the bolt. I got the Hemmings adjusters on this way.

Click to expand...

having done five complete iso replacements over the years, I agree with Dave above that really is all that is necessary to do

I just redid my '74 with new vernier Isolastics. I dropped the exhaust and removed the headsteady, battery box and oil tank. It sounds like you don't need so much room to move as I did to get the big-tube rear Iso in place if all you're doing is shimming. Anyway, I did use a jack under the engine and also suspended the bike from the rafters with tie-down at the triple clamp with soft-ties and on the rear frame loop between the mounts for the grab rail so it wouldn't slide. Then I could adjust tension depending on which way I needed to move the relative parts, cradle vs. main frame. I also used a tie-down to pull the engine forward in the frame (hooks on the front down tubes with the strap around the barrels).

I have a picture I'll post later.

Here is that photo. I also unbolted the lower shock mounts to get more movement between the two parts. I don't know who made that mess...


Mark

Sometimes, a little break from the shed and a fresh look is all I need. Just about to take the headsteady off and try each of the steps recommended one by one until it worked. But then I thought, instead of following the service manual word for word which says to put the cup/washer/cap/cover on assembled, why not put the cup and shims on first, then the washer, cap and gaitor. Done.