Rear brake cable vs rod

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chapmanmd

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I am sure that Norton, in their infinite wisdom, used a cable for the rear brake on the early C'do's for a reason (isolastics I'm sure). My question is this... would the world end and the sky fall if a guy were to use rear sets that used a brake rod instead of a cable? I know there have been threads on this in the past, but I'm still a bit unclear. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
Yes you can get away fine with a rod as there is plenty of slack you can set so the little distance changes of swing arm arc have no effect on applying brake from suspension motion or your own foot pressure. Would love to see your install when you do as the cable snake of my John Tinkle rear sets binds cable for full return by brake spring. I just backed off adjustment to it don't drag much riding but means I must press lever more before feeling effect.
 
Interesting. I for one would prefer a rod instead of the cable. In Classic Bike a couple years ago a guy had a rod instead of a cable. It looked neater (IMO) and he claimed it worked way better ! I'll see if I can find it ...
 
RGM sells a rod kit, 050493 CONVERSION KIT TO CONVERT COMMANDO REAR BRAKES FROM CABLE TO ROD OPERATION, GREATLY IMPROVES THE REAR BRAKE. ALL PARTS EITHER IN STAINLESS OR ALUMINIUM. SUITABLE FOR REARSET FOOTRESTS ONLY.
£ 59
 
Might impart a slightly imprecise feel under braking in varying apex turns and/or uneven surfaces.

Some people might say it's not an approved mod and can kill you, so beware.
 
Best possible option is a direct cable (without an outer), and these are something that can be custom made for each application, and work very well.
 
That's an afirmative Dave, let's see My headsteady, cam bearings, Moded 850 with odd ideas, grandpaul's anything cool he does, jeans tall tire bike with the fixed glass tank, and the list goes on. You can't please anyone, and aparantly trying anything new and different makes people mad.
 
It's not that bad Brent. But some of us are from the "Question Authority" generation so it comes natural.
 
I am unfortunatly from gen "x". So we don't question anything. That's why the game lemmings was so popular :D
 
The temporary screw holding the two clevises together was replaced, all that is polished and sat now. the post clearly mentioned it was temporary.

The fact that it works with a nifty short travel on the pedal, can be stomped on in a panic stop without issues, and now also has the original Lucas brake light switch added to it (which also works) probably means nothing to anyone except me.
 
Face it Brent, like I've found, sleep with just one goat or sheep and you are stuck with a reputation : )

What the difference between true love and the internet.
The internet is forever.
 
grandpaul said:
Might impart a slightly imprecise feel under braking in varying apex turns and/or uneven surfaces.

Some people might say it's not an approved mod and can kill you, so beware.
Click to expand...

"some people" think any mod will kill you, its a wonder they get out of bed and eat toast

Jean
 
Think about this for just a few here. 400lb motor bike with 200lb rider doing say 55MPH down the road were a huge dog walks out. Rear and front brake get used. Tremendous force is applied to the rear contact patch of the tire were by it's 19inches of leverage puts all that force onto the brake shoes out through the levers were it tries very hard to straighten out all the kinks in the cable or rod being used to put those shoes into harms way of the drum. When you think of all that force being levered onto the brake stay and the foot applying the trigger, you might want to keep some of those bendy parts out of there. Give me clevises at each end of a rod or a cable not a bent end that may straighten out under force. Please keep the offset bends out of rods as well, now cable can be done to take up the need for true bends but a curvy cable will cost you a lot of leverage on the trigger for the brake. The forces here can bend fames so those thin cables and rods do a lot more work than you think.
 
norbsa48503 said:
Think about this for just a few here. 400lb motor bike with 200lb rider doing say 55MPH down the road were a huge dog walks out.
Click to expand...
That's exactly what happened to me one day, I thought I was a gonner, didn't even have time to hit the brakes, just raised my feet off the pegs hoping to avoid the bloodshed, but luckily the Shepard dodged and I missed. What a thrill. I was going about 45-50 on Rt.1 going into DC down the hill over the RR. Remember it well.

Dave
 
Only righteous choppers with only a rear brake must have a good rear brake as really slowing best a bike can requires the front used hard enough the rear unloads to useless ness, Unless on poor traction surfaces. In Panic best to hit rear brake to almost max to squat whole bike while adding front much as ya can till rear is unless but not swapping ends. I don't brake for small animals any more I power up into them so if they don't get out the way I'm more likely to run over them than get knocked down. I know what it takes to lock up either end at various speeds and surfaces, by staying refreshed trying it pretty often when I don't really need too.
A touchy rear that locks up pretty easy is handy for direction changes and fling ups or downs but not for lowering speed to matter.
 
If a family of four can eat it in one sitting, run over it; otherwise, DO YOUR BEST TO MISS IT!
 
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