protecting your spare parts

Mainly one 4 the Aussies.
Has anyone got a litre or so of Ampol WD Fluid left in heir sheds that they may wish to sell. Alas Ampol is no more. this is a very good paint on corrision protector for parts storage. A red plasticy type fluid that semi hardens. lasts for years. This is not WD 40. totally different stuff. or any suggestions as an alternative. Denso tape is good but a bit expensive for me. Denso tape is probably the ultimate. I dont use Ensis fluid though it is pretty good in certain applications
Best wishes bradley

This is my prefered lube... To me wd40 is near useless CRC is a good penetrant and lubricant but will eventually evaporate.. Inox Lanox will lube as well but will leave a film of "Lanolin" on the parts for a year or more (in my case)... There are several Lanolin based products out there which are just as good, but the Lanolin is the key..

The $20 tag in the ebay post is eccesive, found it at $12 in auto shops

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/1612731 ... e&lpid=107

Have you tried LPS # 3 or CRC Soft seal, also in AUS there was a product called Tectyl
All 3 spray on as a liquid and then semi set , I used CRC Soft Seal on my outboard motors, if you need to clean it off, std degreaser or similar will eventually get it off, perfect condition under neath.
Regards Mike

You may want to try Cosmoline. It has been around for quite a few number of years and seems to work really well. As a matter of fact where I used to work we would get aircraft engine parts made during World War II that were preserved with Cosmoline. Once the Cosmoline was cleaned off the parts looked brand new.
Cosmoline® - Rust-Veto 342 was probably similar to what was used for the engine parts back then. It was an amber, waxy kind of coating.
http://www.cosmolinedirect.com/?gcl...g0GPQDJyw90FzcEYnh_n_wVKy4hUyOTbRAGVyfYfD_BwE

Gidday All.
Thank you very much for your replies. the info supplied will sort me out.
thanks again Bradley

I store parts in a rain chamber like condensation conditions with animals and insect exertions to protect from, so what I can fit in a good food container tin or jar goes inside with oiled rag or grease layer. By various testing-failings found white Li grease is almost as bad a wd40. Stuff left to otherwise fend for its self I like spray on car wax for paint to raw heads to just wipe off or let vaporize off. Spray wax can't take much handling though. If in oil bath don't let rest directly on bottom of container d/t water layer eventually condensing and maybe currents of corrosion between dissimilar metal contact there's always enough moisture to work its conductivity decay. Labels that don't smudge off helps save time finding a part someone wants measured now and then.

Lucas Oil Products Slick Mist Speed Wax
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/luca ... /7590022-P

Sadly, here in the UK TW25 spray is not readily available, I have used it for years, leaves no coating that needs to be cleaned off either. It's not air transportable, but well worth getting hold of if you can get it, US members it will be easy to get. The other option is a Nato product called PX32 a semi liquid that can be painted / dipped on and evaporates to leave a waxy coating, we use it at sea for bare metal protection, it's intended use is for air frame / exposed fastner protection.

I will second PeterJoe's comment....Cosmolene or equivalent. http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-c ... 26344.aspx

Also, do not allow parts made of different alloys to come in contact.

Slick

B.Rad said:

...Ampol WD Fluid ... A red plasticy type fluid that semi hardens.

Click to expand...

Sounds like what the PO used on the pistons, rings and cam followers on a Triumph engine I bought recently...