progressive springs

Hi everyone....have not been here in forever. Work on the Norton stopped for a while...hubby's mother passed away...but he now is back
into it.

and of course there is a problem.....and here it is...

" I am rebuilding a set of 1973 commando front forks and I am putting in progressive springs. the factory springs are 18.687 long and the new progressive ones are 19.250...is this correct or did the dealer send me the
wrong springs?"

thanks....and glad to be back.

I just ran into exactly the same situation. I never got a definitve answer but was told yes they are a bit longer. It caused some topping out of the forks which I was able to tame with 30W fork oil, however my internal dampers where also worn and I've just replaced those so I won't know results until the bike is back on the road in the spring. BTW I was also told to make sure to install them with the tighter wound coils at the top to leave more room for the fork oil.

Hey Sharon
I am just rebuilding my forks and changed to progressives "Ride Technology” and my stock springs were 18.75 and progressives are just a little longer @ 19.25” These are 76-1119 Street Progressives...hope that helps.
CNN

THANKS! just called him up from garage to relay messages and he smiled so all is good! thanks for replies.

Sharon, hello again.

Yup, same experience here. And I like those progressive springs just fine. 'Course, they'll point out the deficiencies in the rear, causing you to have to pop for Ikon shocks next....

The springs that you purchased will make a big difference but while you've got the fork apart you might want to look into doing the mods that I read about on this forum a few months ago. You have to plug and redrill the damper rod and do a few other mods but you end up with a much better riding norton thats not afraid of pot holes.

Modified parts are also available from clubman racing.

http://www.clubmanracing.com/suspensionforksnorton.php

Hi Sharon,

Welcome back! It's good to hear from you guys again. It sounds like you and hubby make a good team.

As you're going through the forks, it's a good idea to check the stanchions (tubes) to see if they're bent. That's quite common. Also check the clearance between the damper rods and the damper body caps. That's your only source of rebound damping and as the caps wear the clearance increases, causing a progressive loss of rebound damping.

If you do buy new fork tubes I recommend not buying EMGO brand tubes. I did, and they required quite a bit of lathe work to make the lower bushes and circlips fit. There's another thread all about that.

I'm also using the Progressive Suspension springs on my 750 and like them. I use 20 wt fork oil in mine with good results.

Good luck on the project,
Debby

Thanks for the warm welcome back everyone...greatly appreciated!

Yes this is team work...I am selling estate stuff on ebay and he is staying out of the way in garage...comes up occasionally for food and updates!
works perfect.

thanks for the advice..has been forwarded on to the "mechanic" but I
am afraid another problem is brewing....he is writing a question I am sure
cause he just came for paper and pen ....so I will be back real soon.

again thanks for all the info!

sharon