Please check diagram and confirm for me

Status
Not open for further replies.
J

joeboomer999

Joined
Jul 16, 2010
Messages
64
Country flag
Just finishing up my rebuild on my 750 and starting on wiring. I think it is correct but if you guys could confirm / point out if something is wrong that would be great. starting totally fresh and going as bare as possibe. running a trispark ign. with trisparks dual coil and podtronics reg/rec.

also probably a really dumb question but i feel i need confirmation. my single phase stator has two wires coming from it, Both are colored green/yellow. On the reg/rec side of things the two wires that get connected to the stator are both colored yellow. I'm assuming the stator wires are reversible and it doesn't matter which green/yellow wire is plugged into which of the yellow wires?


Please check diagram and confirm for me


thanks
 
joeboomer999 said:
On the reg/rec side of things the two wires that get connected to the stator are both colored yellow. I'm assuming the stator wires are reversible and it doesn't matter which green/yellow wire is plugged into which of the yellow wires?
Click to expand...
True
 
joeboomer999 said:
I think it is correct but if you guys could confirm / point out if something is wrong that would be great. starting totally fresh and going as bare as possibe. running a trispark ign. with trisparks dual coil and podtronics reg/rec.
Click to expand...

The diagram appears to show the blue (DC) wire is connected to one of the stator AC wires, which would be wrong.

joeboomer999 said:
also probably a really dumb question but i feel i need confirmation. my single phase stator has two wires coming from it, Both are colored green/yellow.
Click to expand...

Could one of those "green/yellow" wires actually be a white/green? However, as both are AC it doesn't matter.
 
you mean it should look like this?

Please check diagram and confirm for me


Definitely both green/yellow brand new out of box. I thought it should have been green/yellow and green/white so had it under a magnifying glass and a spot light trying to see a difference... my girlfriend thought i was crazy lol
 
I would suggest bringing the black wire from the regulator directly to the battery, that would place it on the other side of your fuse. It might just be a matter of preference, but it seems better to me that way.
Pete
 
Pete, the only thing with running that wire direct is that the black wire to the regulator is then unfused, so if it should ever develop a bare spot, full battery current will be available until the battery is depleted or the wire burns off. I had that happen on a bike that sheared it's generator drive when out on tour.
The main battery was dead, but I was able to borrow a bit bigger battery from our host. We put the battery in the top box to run things dead loss all the way home . I ran a short unfused wire down to feed things via the brake light connection. Of course swing arm movememt wore the insulation off, unfused power went to ground and wire became instantly red hot, the insulation caught fire and I very nearly burned the bike up!
A fuse would have been prevented the problem, but of course it was a fuseless bodge to get home.

Nowadays I quite like a fuse on the ground side as well or instead of, then everything is protected.

Glen
 
Glen,
I was thinking just the opposite. With the fuse where it is now, if a short happened the regulator would keep putting current into a shorted circuit. My bike has the key up front by the instruments, that's a long piece of wire where a short can happen. I guess the best thing would be to just fuse the regulator wire before it gets into the system. I believe cars use a fusible link.

Pete
 
I see what you mean, I wasn't thinking about the alternator/regulator output side of things. I guess if it comes down to a choice between an unfused wire connected to the battery or an unfused wire from the charging system, I would go with the latter, simply because there isn't a lot of power to do damage, ie set fire to things, from that side, standard bike that is.
I'm assuming there is no real scale to the drawing, so likely the fuse would be right near the battery negative pole. If no ammeter is involved, then the reg black wire could tie in there.

Glen
 
Pete, my switch is just a toggle on the o.g. air box face, which is also where the rec. Is mounted so there's a very small window for a short to occur, and personally like the idea of everything fused.

Glen, wouldn't a second fuse on the ground side just be redundant? If the system draws to much the fuse in place will blow and make an open system so whats the need for a second? (if the answer is obvious my apologise im not totally green with circuits but its definitely a week spot)
 
3 phase is rated @ almost 15 amps. With a dead short it will put all that into the loop. That's just my thinking, I could be way off base. I know just enough to keep me in trouble most of the time.
 
joeboomer999 said:
Pete, my switch is just a toggle on the o.g. air box face, which is also where the rec. Is mounted so there's a very small window for a short to occur, and personally like the idea of everything fused.

Glen, wouldn't a second fuse on the ground side just be redundant? If the system draws to much the fuse in place will blow and make an open system so whats the need for a second? (if the answer is obvious my apologise im not totally green with circuits but its definitely a week spot)
Click to expand...


Yes, it is redundant, no need for two. It can go either side really, the only advantage to having it on the ground side vs hot side is that the everything right up to and including the negative battery post is protected this way.
With the fuse on the negative hot side , as most are, the battery pole and negative feed wire up to the fuse are not protected. Small thing ,unless something happens to contact the battery hot post and shorts it out, which has been known to occur on occasion.

Glen
 
Deets55 said:
3 phase is rated @ almost 15 amps. With a dead short it will put all that into the loop. That's just my thinking, I could be way off base. I know just enough to keep me in trouble most of the time.
Click to expand...

You are correct and I have seen burned harnesses because of that. I use two fuses, one for the alternator and one for the feed line. jim
 
What size fuse would be used on the alternator side, say for an rm 23 180 watt setup or the three phase 180 watt?

Glen
 
worntorn said:
What size fuse would be used on the alternator side, say for an rm 23 180 watt setup or the three phase 180 watt?

Glen
Click to expand...

I use a 15 amp.

ATC15 since the flat blade fuses don't die from vibration as bad as the glass jobs. Jim
 
When Deets mentioned the charging output earlier and a possible fuseable link, I thought good idea. Then it occurred that the fuse must be big enough to handle full charging system output without blowing. So it can also handle full charging system output without blowing whether the charging output is going into a dead battery, branch wiring loads or a short. So it seems that fuse might not offer much protection from charging output going astray somewhere along that wire?
In theory of course.

Glen
 
I was on a ride with a guy at a rally some years back. We rode about 10 miles and came into a town. His bike died as we pulled up to the first stop sign and wouldn't restart. He said it had been backfiring and missing for several miles. We checked it out and found the single fuse at the battery was blown. After looking it over for anything obvious we put a fuse in it and it started right up -no problem. We rode another 30 miles and came to another stop and his bike died again. This time we could smell a hot alternator and burned wires. He said it had started backfiring again just a couple miles from the last town. He got a ride back to the campsite.
What we found was a microswitch someone had sold him for a rear brake light switch had come apart inside and was shorting to ground intermittently. Once the battery fuse blew then the bike didn't run good but it kept running good enough to melt the wiring from the headlight shell to the rear brake light switch and charred his new alternator.
If he would have had a fuse in the alternator wire I think this would have been avoided.

I use a auto reset circuit breaker in the alternator lead on my injected bike. Jim
 
Jim, you mean like this? (sorry im a visual kinda guy)

Please check diagram and confirm for me


Also is there any reason why the rec/alt is wired up before the switch? I placed it there in this diagram because that's how ive always seen it but why not place on the other side so when you flick the switch you cut all circuits?
 
joeboomer999,

Not to step on Jim's toes, but yes that will work.

Worntorn,

Fusible link size might be tough to get exactly correct. They are based on wire size and length. Like Jim said a good spade fuse and holder will work and it will be easier to replace when needed. NAPA has fuse holders with LED build in. When the fuse blows the LED lights.

Pete
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top