Pazon Failure

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Lost spark. Did the checks per the instructions.

Traced wires to see if anything was broken - good.

I have power to the module box.

I took the yellow-black/white-black wires off the trigger and with the ignition on and plugs grounded I touched them at one second intervals and got nothing.

Checked the ground - good.

Changed to new coils - same result.

Checked the kill switch at the handlebars - good.

How do you check the ignition module as the instructions say? I'm thinking this is the problem.

It would run good then die. After I stopped I would kick it over and it would run. Until the last time that caused me to hitch a ride home to get the trailer. Every so often when I turn on the ignition the left or sometimes both of the plugs will spark, I go to the trigger wires and have nothing.

Thoughts???

Scott
 
I would run a wire direct from the negative battery terminal, assuming you have positive ground, to a cheap Radio Shack type toggle switch zip tied on the frame tube above your keyed ignition and from there right to the Pazon live wire.

this bypasses a likely culprit, the crummy old keyed igntion

flip the toggle switch and you have power to Pazon with nothing in between, no kill switch, no keyed ignition, nothing

flip the toggle switch when you want to shut the motor off

doing this should immediately tell you if you have a wiring problem in your present set up if your described issues go away
 
If all electrical functions/flows/components check out then consider a mechanical fixing or clearance issue in the trigger area.
 
Hobot, the instruction mention touching the wires in the trigger to get the spark. I guess essentially your bypassing the plate under the points cover. In this case when bypassing, I get nothing.

Is there a way of testing after the ignition module box to see if that is the issue?
 
another thought....

how is the Pazon grounded, to a frame component or directly back to the positive battery terminal?

you said you bypassed the ignition switch in running current directly to the Pazon, frame grounds can be very suspect, suggest grounding the Pazon right back to the pos battery

question, ignition switch out of the loop, is the kill button still in the loop and are you using any existing Norton harness wiring to find your live lead (suspect) or does you current go direct from neg batt to pazon?
 
I bypassed the ignition and went directly to the hot wire going to the ignition module. Both ways test the same. The module is getting power.

The kill switch is wired into the harness and it is not being activated at the handlebar. I traced it where it enters the harness and it is not grounding somewhere else. I checked the ground to where it is mounted to the coil bracket from the coil making sure there are no issues there.
 
How old is the unit?

Maybe, send it back and have it checked. At least you will know for sure one way or the other about the unit and box.

With all the rain in your area, I'll bet your not riding anyway.
 
The unit is about a year old. Trying to weigh the benefit of sending it back to New Zealand and sitting on my thumbs for weeks or dishing out the $150 for a new one and sending this one back at my leisure. I just want to make sure I'm not missing something simple or be able to pinpoint that it is indeed the ignition and not something else. The Pazons are pretty reliable, to have a failure at less than a year is pretty rare, IMO.

Not much rain here, I ride weekly and generally don't have to go more than 2 weeks. Yesterday was 68* and I'm stuck trying to figure this thing out.

Scott
 
don't have a unit in one of your other norton you can swap it for to see if it is kaput


kernel65 said:
The unit is about a year old. Trying to weigh the benefit of sending it back to New Zealand and sitting on my thumbs for weeks or dishing out the $150 for a new one and sending this one back at my leisure. I just want to make sure I'm not missing something simple or be able to pinpoint that it is indeed the ignition and not something else. The Pazons are pretty reliable, to have a failure at less than a year is pretty rare, IMO.

Not much rain here, I ride weekly and generally don't have to go more than 2 weeks. Yesterday was 68* and I'm stuck trying to figure this thing out.

Scott
 
As mentioned in another thread, there was a failure of the black box (ignition module). Free replacement is on the way.

Scott
 
Pazon seems responsive. I believe I'd email them early in the trouble shooting process. Glad you got it solved.
 
We like hearing successes on mysterious electronics. Btw how did you determine the brain box was faulty?
 
hobot said:
Btw how did you determine the brain box was faulty?

After trouble shooting per the instructions and checking in with the forum, I then consulted Pazon who had nothing to add to what had been tested other than send the unit back. The unit was sent to a distributor who checked the box out to include placing it on a test rig. That's how it was determined the box was at fault.
 
Hm no that only means nothing found faulty that could be checked outside the brains so sent a new brain that may not solve the problem unless already running tested. Hope its that simple to get the noise going. OK actually hope its not the brain box so I get someone smarter figuring out why to maybe help my Pazion that everything checked out but the brain so in interim put back points. If ya do then maybe I could send ya my new brain to plug and play so I'd know only place left is a mechanical issue in trigger area.
 
hobot said:
Hm no that only means nothing found faulty that could be checked outside the brains so sent a new brain that may not solve the problem unless already running tested. Hope its that simple to get the noise going. OK actually hope its not the brain box so I get someone smarter figuring out why to maybe help my Pazion that everything checked out but the brain so in interim put back points. If ya do then maybe I could send ya my new brain to plug and play so I'd know only place left is a mechanical issue in trigger area.

The course of action taken does not prove anything other than it was the black box. What exactly in the box is the real question. Did vibration break a solder joint or was there something else that perhaps shorted out? Unless one breaks the box open it will be an unknown. It seems that the trigger test (crossing the trigger wires) is one of the two ways to externally test the box. The second part is to make sure ground is good and an adequate amount of power is directly going to the box. Of course there are also the variables of the coils being good and properly wired (which mine all tested out okay and wired per the instructions for a positive ground). Doing the trigger wire test takes the trigger plate behind the points cover out of the equation which leaves one of two things that could be happening with the box. 1) power is getting to but not through the box to the trigger plate. 2) the power being sent back to the box by the trigger wires being crossed is not making it out of the box and to the coils.

Sounds like you had a similar failure. What did you get when doing the trigger wire test?

Scott
 
Ugh until you get the new box proved running we only know where the fault was not found. Does not sound like anyone actually checked the old one just the new one. Trixie's snapped fine on manual triggering so all connections conductive w/o shorts. I don't know if Trixies old box was the issue yet as ain't got around to switching out points and won't for a while as don't want to face another frustration doing everything right.
 
hobot said:
Ugh until you get the new box proved running we only know where the fault was not found. Does not sound like anyone actually checked the old one just the new one. Trixie's snapped fine on manual triggering so all connections conductive w/o shorts. I don't know if Trixies old box was the issue yet as ain't got around to switching out points and won't for a while as don't want to face another frustration doing everything right.


They did check mine to see if there was a fault. I sent it back to the distributor who placed in on their known to be right rig. They told me usually there is an issue with improper install by the customer. The black box, trigger plate, or both depending on the issue are placed on their bike and most of the time found to be functional. The distributor came up with the same result as I with the black box, no spark. The true test will be when I receive the new one and then install it on my bike. You can send me your's if you wish, I'll test it out.

If the trigger wire test was successful, it sounds like it might be the trigger plate or internals of the timing chest as you eluded to before I believe.
 
Oh poo then your good news that they found a box fault may be bad news for me. Would be crazy making if didn't fire right up now. I've asked if someone could plug in my new box but so far no takers. Two electronic ignition seasoned guys taking their time over a weened of false starts gave up so I suspect a mechanical fluke in Norton cam taper or such may be Trixies issue. I find it hard to accept that Pazion boxes fail so easy and often that I've one of them but will eventually find out.
 
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