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Paint recommendations...?

Discussion in 'Motorcycle Related Discussions' started by Fast Eddie, Oct 11, 2019.

  1. Fast Eddie

    Fast Eddie VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2013
    Chaps,

    I’m looking to paint some alloy components in satin black. I want a thin but tough coat and was hoping to use a ‘one coat’ type paint that requires no primer or undercoat. It’s not engine cases, so no need to be heat proof. Also not really practical to heat the parts to cure the paint either.

    So, any personal recommendations for an air drying, tough, one coat, satin black, rattle can paint, that will adhere well to aluminium?
     
    TT100 likes this.
  2. johnm

    johnm VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2008
    I just had a disaster using Plastikote Premium fast drying paint. They wash off with petrol and brake cleaner.

    I think their super enamel is stable but I’m not happy.
     
  3. johnm

    johnm VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2008
    This one. Had a week to dry and dissolved with petrol and brake clean
     

    Attached Files:

    TT100 likes this.
  4. Fast Eddie

    Fast Eddie VIP MEMBER

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    Oct 4, 2013
    Blimey, thanks for sharing that John, I’ll certainly give that a miss !
     
  5. Danno

    Danno

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2010
    I like polyurethane. Goes on thin enough to resemble original stove enamel better than powder coat, which means it's fairly thin. Tough and resistant to solvents and gasoline. I must add I haven't used it on alloy. I think I would vapor blast any alloy to a matte finish to give the poly something to stick to. Getting it in a rattle can is possible as is epoxy, which is a little thicker and more readily available.
     
  6. gortnipper

    gortnipper VIP MEMBER

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    Nov 11, 2013
    I think using a primer might be best for adhesion. Why dont you want one?
     
  7. johnm

    johnm VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2008
    Just had a talk with their company rep. Definitely not suitable for use near solvents.

    My advice would be to stay away from the fast drying versions and be very careful with choice of rattle can paints. Ask specifically- maybe at the manufacturer advice address. I wouldn’t trust some guy in a shop.

    I’d do a test run first !
     
  8. Fast Eddie

    Fast Eddie VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2013
    Maybe you’re right, I just wanted to keep the coat thin and thought modern technology might, for once, have come up with something actually useful.

    Sadly, paints that disappear with a whiff of petrol aren’t really that useful for us motorbiking types!

    Back to the drawing board I guess...
     
  9. johnm

    johnm VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2008
    I have found one that the guys at Repco say will work but give me a week and I’ll be able to confirm
     
  10. Fast Eddie

    Fast Eddie VIP MEMBER

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    Oct 4, 2013
    Sounds interesting John, please keep us posted...
     
  11. oldbeezer

    oldbeezer VIP MEMBER

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    Nov 2, 2017
    Fast Eddie likes this.
  12. Bernhard

    Bernhard

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2011
    Wouldn’t recommend it, alloy always needs an alloy etching primer before next coat or paint will simply peel off . . . . eventually
     
  13. johnm

    johnm VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2008
    Mmmmm. Well I’m not having much luck here with these rattle can paints.

    I can’t recommend anything at present sorry. From what I can tell you need to wait a week and maybe heat them in an oven before they stand up to brake cleaner. The Repco one looks promising but after 2 days I can still get a black stain wiping it with brake clean. Maybe in a week ?

    I can only recommend you experiment with top of the line options. And please let me know if you find something good. Although how they will translate country to country is anyone’s guess.

    the only thing I found that really stuck was hammerite metal paint smooth applied by a brush from a can
     
  14. texasSlick

    texasSlick VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2013
    Plus 1. The only thing that stuck to the chrome on my tank badges was Rustoleum by brush from a can, applied thin to allow brush strokes to even out.

    Slick
     
  15. gtiller

    gtiller VIP MEMBER

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    Nov 5, 2012
    Nigel, I’m not sure what ally parts you are looking into, but maybe an idea to consider anodising rather than painting?
     
  16. Fast Eddie

    Fast Eddie VIP MEMBER

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    Oct 4, 2013
    Can’t be bothered with that Grant!

    I’m probably gonna go for the ‘brushed alloy’ look now instead of paint anyway.

    Brushed (or rather Scotchbrited) alloy looks nice, doesn’t look bling, is a doddle to keep looking nice, and there’ll be no flaking paint!

    Sounds like a plan eh?!
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2019
  17. wavey_davey

    wavey_davey

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2014
    Nigel, I painted a modernish ducati engine cover with generic rattle can satin black paint, I like rustoleum hard hat personally. But you have to use an etch primer and I clear coated it with Halford petrol proof lacquer available in rattle cans, check still available online?
     

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