P11 Electrical Re: Battery

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Aug 12, 2018
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Hi everyone-

"New" Norton owner here.

Just picked up a running P11 from the Raber's auction. Just got a Norton manual too.

Trying to figure the wiring to the bike to drop in a battery. Has a boyer ign installed already.

They were just hot-wiring a battery with an external fuel can to show bikes as runners at the auction. There's no battery terminal wires for a battery now in the circuit.

Few photos in the link show what I have to work with. T Don't want to fry anything either.

Also have a photo of the handlebar. There's a light switch on the headlight and another one on the handlebar. Could one of these be a kill switch?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/oEpS3KXKQvEdSSdQ8
 
Welcome to P11 ownership!

The headlamp switch is on the plate holding the gauges.

The dimmer switch is near the left grip.
The other switch is not stock - but it could be a kill switch or a rigged on/off switch.
Does the bike have a key switch somewhere? Doesn't appear so.

One battery terminal lead looks to be routed in back of the blue capacitor and grounded to the frame.
Hard to tell where the other one could be.

You may want to just buy a new harness. They are not too expensive and will probably save you a lot of time in the long run.

PS.
Nice bike!
 
Hi Pops racer, Glad you found this site and congrats on buying one of the Raber P11's. I was there too but not sure if we met? Are you related to Bill Getty? Great little project that you'll have a lot of fun with.

Not sure if there's a files section here on Access but there is on the Yahoo P11 group. I'm pretty sure you can find a wiring schematic for the P11 there. If not I'd be happy to send you a copy of mine. I also suggest getting a new, quality wiring loom. I think Mike Partridge at Walridge will have one available?

Good luck and enjoy the process. C-ya, Jer
 
Received the new harness from British Wiring and find it perfect duplication of the original harness for 1967 Norton P11. Quality is very high, attention to detail is great! I ordered more supplies right away to add front brake switch and maybe some added lighting. No front brake light in this harness. It is a true duplicate of the original harness, flag connector, tab connectors, ring connetions, tape wound harness with sleeving in just one area, Lucas plugs , etc.
Here it is with some P11 electrical components fitted .
lower, unmarked wires fit the rear brake light switch
All of the wires are the correct colors with correct striping! Excellent!
This harness is sold as - Norton 650 Mercury & P11 Main Harness (MC30PP)



There three or more small harnesses that plug into this main harness-
Tail/stop 2 wire
Kill button 2 wire
Hi/Lo/Horn button switch 4 wire
Headlight 3 wire
Park light 1 wire



this an old post, just search for "britishwiring.com"

P11 Electrical Re: Battery
 
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"Received the new harness from British Wiring and find it perfect duplication of the original harness for 1967 Norton P11. Quality is very high, attention to detail is great! I ordered more supplies right away to add front brake switch and maybe some added lighting. No front brake light in this harness. It is a true duplicate of the original harness, flag connector, tab connectors, ring connetions, tape wound harness with sleeving in just one area, Lucas plugs , etc."

I also have this harness, but one thing I notice that is not like the original is the fuse is on the positive battery lead. All original Norton harnesses have it on the negative lead (postive ground). Theoretically this will work, but I wonder if there is a good reason for putting the fuse close to the ungrounded terminal.

Also, only the Ranger 750 had a front brake light switch, so the harness is correct for P11 and P11A.
 
The dimmer switch is near the left grip.
The other switch is not stock - but it could be a kill switch or a rigged on/off switch.
Does the bike have a key switch somewhere? Doesn't appear so.
I only see one handlebar switch in the photo. The combination Hi/Lo headlight and horn button. The kill button should be on the right handlebar and is the subject of another post on this forum. The keyswitch on a '67 hi-piper is located between the two coils. An incentive to get in the habit of using the kill button!
 
"Received the new harness from British Wiring and find it perfect duplication of the original harness for 1967 Norton P11. Quality is very high, attention to detail is great! I ordered more supplies right away to add front brake switch and maybe some added lighting. No front brake light in this harness. It is a true duplicate of the original harness, flag connector, tab connectors, ring connetions, tape wound harness with sleeving in just one area, Lucas plugs , etc."

I also have this harness, but one thing I notice that is not like the original is the fuse is on the positive battery lead. All original Norton harnesses have it on the negative lead (postive ground). Theoretically this will work, but I wonder if there is a good reason for putting the fuse close to the ungrounded terminal.

Also, only the Ranger 750 had a front brake light switch, so the harness is correct for P11 and P11A.

P11 harness seems to me almost like Mercury one.
With the I. E. on, i have used the two kill switch wires for fit the front brake switch (that i need for italian MOT); is easy to join with a brown and a white wires (from rear brake switch) that you can find near tin the key switch side.
Ciao
Piero
 
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The headlamp switch is on the plate holding the gauges.

The other switch is not stock - but it could be a kill switch or a rigged on/off switch.
Does the bike have a key switch somewhere? Doesn't appear so.

One battery terminal lead looks to be routed in back of the blue capacitor and grounded to the frame.
Hard to tell where the other one could be.

You may want to just buy a new harness. They are not too expensive and will probably save you a lot of time in the long run.

Yeah, think that the handlebar switch is somehow a kill switch. I do have an keyed ignition on the other side. A bit of a temporary mount situation right now. But a new harness would take a lot of the guesswork out of blind guessing an frying something by accident.
 
This harness looks far easier to decipher/cleaner than what I have now, p400. Might be the best bet. I get too many headaches looking at this nest of wiring
View attachment 6290[/QUOTE]

Side note, P11's got Zeners? I dont think mine even has one!
 
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Side note, P11's got Zeners? I dont think mine even has one!
Absolutely! There are two aluminum discs (heat sinks) bolted to the frame's head steady mount. The zener is bolted to these discs.
 
Which wiring diagram from the Haynes Manual is best for a P11? I see there’s an Atlas 750 Export diagram as well as a post 1966 diagram (I guess for all models). Looks like the post 1966 is a little clearer and more detailed.
 
Hi everyone-

"New" Norton owner here.

Just picked up a running P11 from the Raber's auction. Just got a Norton manual too.

Trying to figure the wiring to the bike to drop in a battery. Has a boyer ign installed already.

They were just hot-wiring a battery with an external fuel can to show bikes as runners at the auction. There's no battery terminal wires for a battery now in the circuit.

Few photos in the link show what I have to work with. T Don't want to fry anything either.

Also have a photo of the handlebar. There's a light switch on the headlight and another one on the handlebar. Could one of these be a kill switch?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/oEpS3KXKQvEdSSdQ8
the switch on the left bar is the dimmer toggle and the chrome horn switch. Light switch is between the gauges.
 
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