Oil Tank Removal @#$%!?

Did a clean up of the garage today and got the Norton onto the stand. opened my package from British Spares here in New Zealand and started replacing the perished exhaust rubber mounts and cush drive.
Well the Cush drive was a bit of mission..... used up most of my swear words on that...trying to get the wheel back on....but is was a doddle compared to removing the oil tank.....
the top mount is broken off and the bottom one ....well I havn't actually seen it yet as I can't get the [ insert favourite expletive here] tank out.
Its got nice braided lines on it but....did they really build the frame around it as it won't come out.

You will need to tilt your head to the right to see the view from the right rear...

There appears to be a 'stub' that has/is blocked off causing it to not slip out.

I see an hacksaw in the future cutting this unused stub off. Beats me how they got it in.
Any suggestions from the team?
....next a " what oil " question....( ducks for cover...) :wink:
Also those mounts look pretty flimsy.
Enought of this..going to give the house a quick 'man clean' and go pick up the Missus and kids ,flying in from Brisbane this arvo.... wonder what she's cooking for dinner.. :roll:

That is a blocked off original chain oiler, also referred to as the "factory incorporated oil leak". I chop them off and solder them up every time.

72Combat said:

and the bottom one ....well I havn't actually seen it yet as I can't get the [ insert favourite expletive here] tank out.

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You removed the bottom bolt...yes? Two top rubber mounts and one lower bolt going vertical into the threaded boss on the bottom of the tank. The tank should come right out...the blocked chain oiler fitting shouldn't be trouble.

I got it out....bit of tweeing here and there, tight fit was all the modified oil lines. So do I get rid of the stub for the chain oiler....?
Are there any recomended improvements to the mountings? the bottom one looks a bit light....

Yes a bolt up into the bottom of a tank holding oil was not a good idea. If you look deeper you will find that a large washer welded onto the same place underneath will give the support needed for a rubber block, much better. IONA membership booklet had an article by Dan Clark about its details. They can be looked up.

72Combat said:

I got it out....bit of tweeing here and there, tight fit was all the modified oil lines. So do I get rid of the stub for the chain oiler....?
Are there any recomended improvements to the mountings? the bottom one looks a bit light....

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First check to see if the bottom mounting boss is leaking...this is a common place that the brazing will crack and cause a very slight weep.

Personally I drill out the the upper mounting holes and use the rubber muffler mounts in those locations along with a piece of rubber on the bottom.

72combat, not to laugh at your experience, but I think I've used up my own and several other cussing coffers over the years working on my commando. It seems as though they are built in layers from the inside out so getting at anything requires one to dismantle half the bike. :lol: Builder, never thought to use the exhaust rubbers for the oil tank, I'll have to give it a try, good info.

britbike220 said:

72combat, not to laugh at your experience, but I think I've used up my own and several other cussing coffers over the years working on my commando. It seems as though they are built in layers from the inside out so getting at anything requires one to dismantle half the bike. :lol: Builder, never thought to use the exhaust rubbers for the oil tank, I'll have to give it a try, good info.

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Yes, I might have to use Google to get me some new swear words....flipping heck....for Petes Sake....cobblers....

scope creep set in this morning.... made up a new rear support bracket, brazed it on...t'was great...like being a bloke in a Classic Bike mag..... then the Postie arrived......with a box..... Gazooks....t'was the new 3 phase alternator from our cousins accross the Tazzie.
Read instructions....first as opposed to the usual afterwards..... " best place to mount regulator is under the battery box"
Strewth Maaate....blow me down with an Aborginal Dart......you gotta be joking.... :roll:
However with the tank out its much easier...er less more harderer....
Then it was off with the primary cover.....one bolt.....I like Commandos more and more.....
....to be continued as my tea is getting cold.

Ignition like that are designed for the oil cooling not air cooling so underneath battery box is only place the warranty will cover it. Lazy dudes usually put em under the frame spine but you can search all the trouble that leads too.

Don't cut off the chain oiling nipple as has dual function of internal baffling that prevents most the wet sump issues at low speed, never hear of that, except from those who got to neat nick with their Cdo.

hobot said:

Ignition like that are designed for the oil cooling not air cooling so underneath battery box is only place the warranty will cover it. Lazy dudes usually put em under the frame spine but you can search all the trouble that leads too.

Don't cut off the chain oiling nipple as has dual function of internal baffling that prevents most the wet sump issues at low speed, never hear of that, except from those who got to neat nick with their Cdo.

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mounted the regulator under the battery box.... as for the chain oiling stubb......opps.... its now about 1/2" ( getting the hang of " now) long.

the bottom thread on the oil tank is stripped....wondered why it would not get tighter...and its Friggin awkward as it is.

Hmmm what do I do now....will it take a re thread in another size...? it was all going so nicely.... :wink:

Hehe, good on you to get eye sore ignition box out of sight in such tough place.

Just jerking chain on the less than useless chain oiler tube. What could be done with that leftover tube would be attach a sight tube to it, with a cloth plug at top to keep oil vapors in bay.

I've learned not to fasten down the wimpy flexy fatigue prone oil tank bottom but just get it to rest firmly on compliant robust rubber pad and use the Harley or Norton Lords rubber stud mounts. Of course it can be built up or made over kill robust like CNW kit, but then still a bugger to get to and less to spend on more important stuff with more pay back pleasures.

Might attach an extension, rigid or cable, on dip stick for more accurate oil level.

72Combat said:

hobot said:

Ignition like that are designed for the oil cooling not air cooling so underneath battery box is only place the warranty will cover it. Lazy dudes usually put em under the frame spine but you can search all the trouble that leads too.

Don't cut off the chain oiling nipple as has dual function of internal baffling that prevents most the wet sump issues at low speed, never hear of that, except from those who got to neat nick with their Cdo.

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mounted the regulator under the battery box.... as for the chain oiling stubb......opps.... its now about 1/2" ( getting the hang of " now) long.

the bottom thread on the oil tank is stripped....wondered why it would not get tighter...and its Friggin awkward as it is.

Hmmm what do I do now....will it take a re thread in another size...? it was all going so nicely.... :wink:

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Don't use the bottom mount.

combat-proddy-build-t4186-120.html#p59866

Good pics there SwooshDave, I like the Velcro idea....to think I spent all that time shagging around with the bottom fixing.... :evil:

72Combat said:

Good pics there SwooshDave, I like the Velcro idea....to think I spent all that time shagging around with the bottom fixing.... :evil:

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There has been a lot written on the bottom mount breaking. I used bigger top mounts and then let it hang. Hopefully that will work.

Three good ideas about oil tank support in one thread, That's great!

Velcro ok for jacket cuffs if sewn on but heat and oil and vibe exposed to glue on will not last long I predict. Tank can work unspported at bottom I found out- after my glued on first rubber pad attempt failed and pads shifted, but annoying on rough rides as tank clanks and puts extra stress on the also wimpy metal mount tabs. To my mind the base should hold the weight and the tops just hold off frame.

hobot said:

Velcro ok for jacket cuffs if sewn on but heat and oil and vibe exposed to glue on will not last long I predict. Tank can work unspported at bottom I found out- after my glued on first rubber pad attempt failed and pads shifted, but annoying on rough rides as tank clanks and puts extra stress on the also wimpy metal mount tabs. To my mind the base should hold the weight and the tops just hold off frame.

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Very possible, although this is industrial velcro, not for jackets...

Of all people to dismiss modern technology on an old bike. :wink:

Swoosh, must be static in our lines of communications, Velcro is great idea, as far as the loop/hook part, just weakness to solve is fastening the Velcro to the parts. Industrial may do the trick for so long its a non issue to replace every decade or two. Will keep strong Velcro in mind for some of Ms Peels needs, if I can wire wrap on or epoxy on the Velcro pieces. They even make metal versions now that can hold up a building side or big sign but alas they are not stick on type to surfaces.

I like new fangled stuff a lot, even looking forward to sex with a robot and meals in a pill but that's too appliance like for best down and dirty organic orgasms with real partners and no interface between us.

hobot said:

Swoosh but that's too appliance like for best down and dirty organic orgasms with real partners and no interface between us.

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Dave I'd be very worried if I were you :mrgreen:

britbike220 said:

hobot said:

Swoosh but that's too appliance like for best down and dirty organic orgasms with real partners and no interface between us.

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Dave I'd be very worried if I were you :mrgreen:

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I'd be worried too. If I knew what that actually meant. Ah, ignorance is bliss... :mrgreen:

Steve, just to clarify, I hope that industrial grade also applies to the adhesive holding the Velcro® to the tank. But you're right, I'm as concerned as you that the hot oil tank will have an impact on the stickiness. The stickiness of the Velcor® not of the robot. :shock: