trident sam
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I'll be removing my 850 mk. 3 swinging arm soon for paint, is it a good idea to fit a couple of oil nipples while it's off ?
thanks
sam
thanks
sam
Oil nipples on Mk. 3 swinging arm
- Thread starter trident sam
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trident sam wrote;
I think it is :idea: I drilled and tapped the right hand side welch plug on my swinging arm (prior to fitting) and have a small bolt (I can't remember what size off hand) that can be removed as and when I want to add some EP140 from a syringe. When I re-fitted the welch plug, I made sure that the bolt sat at the twelve o'clock position to reduce the likelihood of leaks. I put some oil in once a year and although most of it slowly escapes for the following two months past the pivot seals, I'm sure it helps to keep the bushes in good condition.
The bushes are apparently made from oilite.
See the posting below with reference to LAB's post on August 1st.
1973-norton-850-swing-arm-rebuild-t2759.html?hilit=swinging arm bushes
I think it is :idea: I drilled and tapped the right hand side welch plug on my swinging arm (prior to fitting) and have a small bolt (I can't remember what size off hand) that can be removed as and when I want to add some EP140 from a syringe. When I re-fitted the welch plug, I made sure that the bolt sat at the twelve o'clock position to reduce the likelihood of leaks. I put some oil in once a year and although most of it slowly escapes for the following two months past the pivot seals, I'm sure it helps to keep the bushes in good condition.
The bushes are apparently made from oilite.
See the posting below with reference to LAB's post on August 1st.
1973-norton-850-swing-arm-rebuild-t2759.html?hilit=swinging arm bushes
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My '72's have oil zerk on RH spindle meant to pump oil in via small grease gun like oil pumper, which in the day was a push handle type rather than lever type though don't matter. STP don't stay inside much longer than thinner lube but does tend to stick on upper spindle surfaces longer for the primary reason to put 'lube' in there for Rust. Just filling to zerk level will not protect the top of spindle rust crusting as spindle should not rotate and only getting upside down now and then will allow liquid lube to reach it. Of course a reservoir above spindle works to constant feed the expected loss.
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Yes Welch plug type end cap is sealed for life ,but I think he is contemplating tapping one to fit a nipple or bolt hole so he can add a little fresh oil each season. But I have one in my hand right now and it is way thinner than earlier model end caps with their threaded nipple to add oil from a gun. Too thin to tap I think. :|
I'm thinking it might not be a great idea to add an oil nipple to something that is sealed for life. Sealed for life items that I have cut apart for inspection all showed perfect, clean, like new lubricant in place. Pumping oil in under pressure might only serve to damage the seal and let lubricant out, dirt in?
I have become quite a fan of sealed for life. Greasing or oiling by grease nipple is highly overrated!
Glen
I have become quite a fan of sealed for life. Greasing or oiling by grease nipple is highly overrated!
Glen
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Problem is , ( isn't there always one ? ) the oil sooner or later slips by the big O rings leaving dry death. MK111- renew oil after 39 years ? Anything left in there ? Spindle fixing points a big yes.
Folks,
I have a '75 MkIII with 7,800 original miles and the swing arm has 1.5 mm of deflection at the end of the axle holders. Looks like the welch plugs have never been removed. Am in the midst of pulling the engine for a rebuild and looking to address the bigger, function problems now knowing that I'll make a 2nd/3rd pass for more aesthetics and upgrades if I like it and keep it. Did not run when I bought it and I've never ridden a Commando.
Given this scenario, is this degree of end play worth pulling the plugs, replacing the bushes and even putting the Kegler clamp mod on at this point?
Secondly, from reading up on this it's not clear to me whether oil fittings need to be in both welch plugs? The left is pretty well covered by the primary case.
Thanks for advising the newbie here…
Andy --
I have a '75 MkIII with 7,800 original miles and the swing arm has 1.5 mm of deflection at the end of the axle holders. Looks like the welch plugs have never been removed. Am in the midst of pulling the engine for a rebuild and looking to address the bigger, function problems now knowing that I'll make a 2nd/3rd pass for more aesthetics and upgrades if I like it and keep it. Did not run when I bought it and I've never ridden a Commando.
Given this scenario, is this degree of end play worth pulling the plugs, replacing the bushes and even putting the Kegler clamp mod on at this point?
Secondly, from reading up on this it's not clear to me whether oil fittings need to be in both welch plugs? The left is pretty well covered by the primary case.
Thanks for advising the newbie here…
Andy --
Sam
This is what I have done to my MK3,s swinging arm. The little reservoir I got from Rufforth autojumble for a couple of quid. The banjo and bolt assembly is made up of stuff from the 'come in handy one day bin'
What every you decide to do (oil nipple, reservoir etc) you need to made a hole through the middle of the felt wick next to your chosen lubricant delivery method. This is to allow said lubricant to reach the far side bearing. This is a known problem that is highlighted in the Commado Service Notes booklet that was written by Tim Stevens and John Hudson which i recommend EVERY commando owner should buy
The banjo bolt I used is a stainless screw that I extended with a length of hyperdermic tubing so that it feeds thru the wick directly into the hollow spindle. The manual says to use EP140 but I use a very heavy g/box oil (omala 320 if you must know) as I have a can of it that should last me out.
Pre MK3 owners. If your spindle is still retained by the little screw. You can swop the screw for a banjo bolt and feed the lubricant in there.
PS how is the starter motor doing?
Regards
Peter
http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y47 ... 9576906886
This is what I have done to my MK3,s swinging arm. The little reservoir I got from Rufforth autojumble for a couple of quid. The banjo and bolt assembly is made up of stuff from the 'come in handy one day bin'
What every you decide to do (oil nipple, reservoir etc) you need to made a hole through the middle of the felt wick next to your chosen lubricant delivery method. This is to allow said lubricant to reach the far side bearing. This is a known problem that is highlighted in the Commado Service Notes booklet that was written by Tim Stevens and John Hudson which i recommend EVERY commando owner should buy
The banjo bolt I used is a stainless screw that I extended with a length of hyperdermic tubing so that it feeds thru the wick directly into the hollow spindle. The manual says to use EP140 but I use a very heavy g/box oil (omala 320 if you must know) as I have a can of it that should last me out.
Pre MK3 owners. If your spindle is still retained by the little screw. You can swop the screw for a banjo bolt and feed the lubricant in there.
PS how is the starter motor doing?
Regards
Peter
http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y47 ... 9576906886
Thanks for the quick reply… There appears to be no deflection in the ISO mounts though, again I've never seen it run. How does one go about determining the condition of the mounts? Adjusters run out of range? Externally, they show no cracks, dry rot etc. Pulled the head off and the head steady rubber mounts appear to be in good shape if that's any indication.
Trying to pick my battles at this stage and the SW bushing job looks like it could be "interesting."
Andy --
Trying to pick my battles at this stage and the SW bushing job looks like it could be "interesting."
Andy --
dobba99 said:Sam
This is what I have done to my MK3,s swinging arm. The little reservoir I got from Rufforth autojumble for a couple of quid. The banjo and bolt assembly is made up of stuff from the 'come in handy one day bin'
What every you decide to do (oil nipple, reservoir etc) you need to made a hole through the middle of the felt wick next to your chosen lubricant delivery method. This is to allow said lubricant to reach the far side bearing. This is a known problem that is highlighted in the Commado Service Notes booklet that was written by Tim Stevens and John Hudson which i recommend EVERY commando owner should buy
The banjo bolt I used is a stainless screw that I extended with a length of hyperdermic tubing so that it feeds thru the wick directly into the hollow spindle. The manual says to use EP140 but I use a very heavy g/box oil (omala 320 if you must know) as I have a can of it that should last me out.
Pre MK3 owners. If your spindle is still retained by the little screw. You can swop the screw for a banjo bolt and feed the lubricant in there.
PS how is the starter motor doing?
Regards
Peter
http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y47 ... 9576906886
Hi Peter -
This is Andy.. That's a well sorted out set up you have there. Assuming that my swing arm bushes are dry (hence the end play), would it make sense that if I get more lubricant inside (by whatever means) that the end play would be reduced by either the swelling of the bushes, viscosity of the lubricant or both?
Again, nice solution...
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ag12680 said:
It isn't wise to assume anything, as rear wheel side play-especially on a MkIII is more likely to be Isolastic clearance-so I recommend you temporarily tighten the rear Iso. down to zero, nip up the assembly and check again, or watch for movement between the rear of the primary case and the Z-plate. If the primary case moves in unison as you deflect the rear wheel then the play is in the Isolastics.
ag12680 said:
No.
Thanks guys… I'll check for rear iso play. When I move the swing arm (even though only over a mm) it's a distinct range associated with hard contact more than felt resistance that gives with more grunt. My first rodeo with iso mounts so I have no idea how long they last. No history from the PO to go on either.
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