Oil line crimp on fittings question.

Im replacing all oil lines on my 1970 750 S. The Arizona heat took a toll on the original oil lines. During tear down on my project, most lines broke. I want to keep the bike looking as original as possible so braided lines is out. I have seen crimping tools for attaching the ends, but they are pricey and I would need several sizes. My main concern is the two main lines that exit the oil tank. Is it possible to purchase those two lines complete with banjos on the end and do they just screw into the engine block? Or will I have to make up all the rubber lines myself? Where is a good place to find the rubber style hoses and copper looking crimps? I heard its next to impossible to find the "harringbone" rubber hoses?

Old Brits has similar but tougher texture herring bone hose and maybe Moss Motors if ya contact them. The main oil hoses just slip on the banjo barbs of tank connections and engine manifold then hose clamps or crimp on fitting to seal.

I can't find any drawings for the '70 oil system, but my '74 has no crimped oil lines just hose clamps. And the herringbone hose is outrageously expensive.

I assume you're speaking of the TOP END oil lines.. The herringbone lines to and from the tank/filter/pump seem to be eternal. However, if you must replace them, there are many hose choices. Your desire to be original dictates herringbone texture hose, which is available. The crimp fittings are available, you need a special tool to form them, two or four flute. The hardened plastic top end hose, they don't fair as well. Break like glass when old/hardened. The plastic line assemblies are available at most parts sellers. I, too, resisted the braid. I hold it in contempt except for it's intended purpose, mostly because of it's propensity to abrade. The clear vinyl coating will eventually crack/discolor. But, I eventually caved in to the braided stainless including thw http://www.oldbritts.com oil pressure gage for engine safety.

1970 top end oil lines were nylon 11 or some such. Black and the lines are just pushed on the fittings. Air brake line is the same thing. You will need to hold the line with something and whack the fitting on with a rubber or similar hammer. I used a flare tool, but you can drill a hole in a block of wood and clamp it in the vice. It's impossible to hold with your hand and knock the fittings in. Put some oil on the fitting before whacking, and make a few test runs and you will get the method pretty quick.

The 68-69 bikes originally had metal lines, I think they switched to plastic in the 70's.



Dave
69S

I understand using "herringbone" lines in an attempt to be authentic - I would liberally apply a product called Armor-all to all rubber, plastic or nylon parts in an effort to protect them from UV light damage. I would also consider using the steel oil lines from 1968-69. I suspect the Factory went to the nylon lines as a way to cut corners on production costs, just like their change from the original design that called for Vernier adjustable headsteady, to a cheaper production variant that cracked and didn't work very well.

You live in an area where you have a lot of sun and high ampient heat, the steel lines might be far more reliable, and outside of very strict Concours judging, who would know? Not to put too fine a point on it, my advice is free and almost worth what you pay for it.

Mine had steel lines on it when I got it, and I think they cracked and started leaking somewhere around 5K miles. There have been some here that have used them for originality, but I would not. I'm not sure anyone is making them for sale, but it would be easy enough to make a set. As I remember they were zinc coated or had a plating on them, not shiny. I find the nylon cheap and easy to work with. Some find them unreliable, but I have not encountered that. My original set was very brittle a couple of years ago, so I replaced them, the lines that is, not the banjos. I find them original enough for me.

Dave
69S

I wouldn't use that plastic line if they paid me to! With age it gets brittle as glass & these bikes shake a bit. I have a mountain bike that came with the same line for the hydrolic brakes & it litterly allmost killed me on a ride when cracked, spraying all the fluid in my face and instantly leaving me with no front brake. I came within a inch of going off a 200 foot cliff that would surely have killed me. Granted some use it for years & years with no problem but I would allways be worried about it.

NOC service notes say that they changed to nylon oil lines because the steel (copper?) lines broke regularly. I guess nylon withstands the vibes better, just renew it before too many decades elapse.
Mine had worn very thin where it rubbed on the frame - i'll try to address that when I put the bike back together.
Cheers
Martin

I used the black plastic lines without any difficulty, but agree that they do appear vulnerable. They were a little bit difficult to get on over the barb, took a couple of tries. I found softening the end with a hair dryer and than pushing it on the barb worked well.

I guess you had luck with the heat Jim. I wouldn't use it myself, once the nylon deforms that's it. Boiling water is about as far as I would go, but if you can get hold of the line close to the end with something and put some oil or silicone lube on each piece, it will whack on just fine. I had one leak, but I just cut it off and did it again. If the line is brittle, it's too old.

There's nothing wrong with other systems, I just find this the easiest and most reasonable and I don't mind the look. All you need is about 5' of line and it shouldn't cost $15. In bulk it's only about .50/ft.

Dave
69S