Norton-villier's Rebuild 1st pic post

Gday N-V, looks good mate, its amazing what results can be produced within a small space! Keep up the pics and do tell whats the finish on the cases please!
Foxy

Thanks Foxy, Dupli.Color HIGH HEAT with ceramic DYNO HEAT TESTED 1200 degrees. It realy looks nice. Phil

I always wonder about the "high heat ceramic"? Is it to keep the heat in or out, or the paint on the item? I have never been too impressed with the fuel tolerance of the high heat chrome/aluminum paints, unless they are clear coated and then you have the issue of the clear yellowing and they change colour lots with clear coat on them. Maybe you have found the right one? But then I would never paint a crank either. Just my opinion, don't take offense please, it's your bike not mine.

Dave
69S

Gday DogT, heres a link to VHT paints.http://www.speco.com.au/vht_guide.html
Ive used the calipre paint on mtrcycle barrels before with great success. Its the ceramic/silicone based high gloss item and is chemical resistant after baking. So far it looks good and hasnt faded or chipped.
Foxy

Thanks for the feedback DogT. I hope I dont have a problum with that. Ill have to tickle vary carefully. I used PJ1 on the Mark III head and it turned gold. Im going to use the ceramic paint on the Mark II head hope it works out. Phil

I did use the DupliColor High Heat 1200° aluminum ceramic paint on my barrels and cooked it in the gas grill. My ultimate testing was with carb cleaner, but not much holds up to that out of a spray can. I haven't noticed any problem with the gas getting on the barrels so far though, so you should be good to go, just don't spray carb cleaner on it! It will strip it right off in a heartbeat.

I've found on hobot's recommendation that the DupliColor High Performance Wheel Coating clear is pretty good resisting gas, I put it on my tank and it's holding up nicely. I wouldn't put clear on the barrel or crank though. The best gas resistant is the 2-pack, but you need a forced air respirator for that.

Dave
69S

Very good looking work so far!

Humpf, Frank, what's to see here, its all nice and neat and shiny and organized. Where's the bloody rusted decayed chipped worn pitted beginings to recoil from?

Thanks grandpaul, I got hit by a car in 86. I took it all apart in 96 rased a family and Im just getting back to it now. I never took before Pics. Hope this answers your question hobot. Im in no hurry just wana to get it right. Not trying to win any contests. Just happy my pics worked had my son help me with that. Hope I can do it by myself after more progress.
Phil

Opp, it Phil not Frank, sorry. Car strike and family life are acceptable reasons to miss photo's and delay getting on with the show. I'm just teasing with ya on starting with everything pristine. Your post allowed me to learn about the ceramic hi temp paints. Prior I'd used rattle can JP1 epoxy paint. then later with more time money had barrels done in GunKote, then they got destroyed d/t rod bolt let go. This time around just gloss black engine paint.
http://www.google.com/search?client=fir ... gle+Search

On the DupliColor wheel coat, it also holds up to pretty high heat d/t the car brakes heating wheels. I have taken torch to a test spot on a Al cover and it didn't do anything for a few seconds, which was good enough for my use.
I think brake fluid may get to it, will have to try as I want to spray my Caliper to not trap grime so well and wipe off to shiny and limit the Al spoiling.

Main caution is to layer on fairly thinly or it can yellow and dimple.
It can also take a few days or more to really harden up to finish further.
Only way to get it looking nice shiny up close it buff it out like polishing a Al cover. I'm now in the practice of nipping up nuts and spripzing them with this clear coat to prevent rust and easier clean up wipe off less grit scatching surface.

I've got two blobs of grey JBWeld in Trixie Combat repaired cases, will try just plain silver paint only on the spots mostly out of sight anyway.