Here! Here! Here! It only takes once in this crowd for a reputation to be set in stone, I only slept with one dead goat but you'd think it was a habit by the reaction.
cASpark device, check, via Boyer Brandsen Micro-MK IV 12v electronic ignition kit with two new 6v coils,
Power connection, check, + new ignition key switch,
Lights, check = headlight, brakelight, brakelight switch,
Power storeag, check = 12v battery,
Power supply, No Check, as the stator needs a magnet rotor, if not just forget to list.
Put in new plugs of course, If chokes still installed study the reverse obvious cable action, set valve lash, pop off Time cover and check, set cam chain tension, MAKE REAL sure the primary chain seems too slack when cold or bad juju when hot. Set pilot air screws to 1.5 turn out, work throttle lightly and listen if can hear both Amal silde bottom close to one sound not two, by gosh test the one brake its got for both drag to slow and no or nil drag when free rolling, Check drive chain ~3/4"slack bike unloaded, 30 lb in rear 27 in front to start with then play with front for best steering ease and handling. Likely clutch plates gunked up so poor shifting until more prayful devoted Commando worship postures assumed in quality fettering time. Eye ball the clutch lever and gear box end for frays to strand you. Change oil after first ride like a new break in. Gear box likes ATF better than gear lube btw, so does the primary but you'll learn the natural levels like the rest of us soon enough,
But dog gonit its a Commando in its black heart, canted cockey engine in isolastic support, I hope, didn't notice, so should sound great and pull dang good too. If timing case off can pump oil in crankshaft, but definitely pour a oz or so in exhaust side rocker boxes and half than in the intakes, Tickle carbs with hot battery and max Boyer brain timing 28' for Combat, 32" for lessor engines, Non Combat lash .006" int. .008" exh. Combat .008"/.010". Key on kick to life and hold rpms in the 2000-ish range to get cam rebedded to lifters with oil wedge protection while the ole rings get better sealed to bore, so expect gobs of smoke out pipe and everything else heating up. Don't need a fan as don't get that hot on fuel to run unloaded a minute or two. Cool down then go over every bolt head to cradle crank case fasteners, a bit tigher then normal experience in lesser machines or til oil seals or just don't till real tear down. Pack phone and wires and electrical test light and small vice grips and adustable wrench and screw driver to reach carb screws and electrical or dust tape, zip ties and tire wire and maybe a couple 2" hose clamps for the 1st 1000 miles, if you get that far, wow.
