New starter dead

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Hi again everyone I got my 75 Mk3 out of winter hibernation today, I started it on the kick start as I always do when it is cold rode approx 10 miles to fill up fuel and when coming to restart I thought give the tart start a go it was fitted new last year pressed the button and dead nothing so back to kicking again !!! Can anyone suggest where to start trying diagnose and fix this, the starter was fitted new at the end of 2021
 
Have you tried wiggling the starter thumb switch when pressed?

Glen
 
Can anyone suggest where to start trying diagnose and fix this, the starter was fitted new at the end of 2021

Which "new starter"?
Wosp? dynodave/Norvil? Other?

According to this thread, it had the old starter or an unknown starter in Feb. 2022.

Which solenoid? Original Prestolite? Other?

Does the solenoid click when you press the starter button?
 
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No it does nothing at all when button pressed and yes it is a wasp starter
 
No it does nothing at all when button pressed and yes it is a wasp starter
Wosp

Ok, so if you aren't hearing the solenoid click then it's not operating which could be due to a dud or discharged battery, faulty solenoid or the power from the starter button circuit (white/red) isn't getting to the solenoid.
Edit: ...or the (Prestolite?) solenoid (metal plate) has become isolated from earth/ground?
 
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What solenoid is fitted? the prestolite ones are shite, Ive had two fail, The lucas mini solenoid works and bolts straight in. How old is the wiring? when was the switch gear last serviced? clapped out battery will still allow the bike to start on the kickstart but not on the button. Check all connections are secure, a dodgy connection can give similar symptoms as a dud battery. Go through the electrics working methodically.
 
Hi again everyone first I will get a few queries answered battery good and fully charged, the solenoid as far as I can tell is mounted to a triangular plate under the seat and I cannot see enough of it to say anything about it, and the best news of all is I have just been to the garage and pressed the magic button again and away she went so I am leaning towards corrosion or bad connection in the button as I did manipulate it while trying it, so the swichgear has to be my first examination and I have no experience with this at all, shoud I remove the master cylinder first or is there an easy way to do this without having to bleed the front brake yet again, and is there a procedure tried and tested for cleaning and tidying this so I am told unobtainable item, many thanks everyone Chris
 
shoud I remove the master cylinder first

Yes, the master cylinder must Edit: [should preferably] be removed (4 screws) before the two switch cluster sections are separated.

or is there an easy way to do this without having to bleed the front brake yet again

You don't have to detach the hydraulic hose from the master cylinder, just remove the 4 screws that attach it to the switch cluster.

and is there a procedure tried and tested for cleaning and tidying this so I am told unobtainable item,

To dismantle the actual starter button switch (after removing the kill switch plate) you need to remove the fibre cover that is 'riveted' in place to reach the switch contacts. You will also have to remove the kill switch contact board (bottom of the picture) to remove the switch assembly.
New starter dead
 
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Also, take care not to lose the contact plate and backing spring from the nylon kill switch sliding contact as you remove the starter switch.

New starter dead
New starter dead
New starter dead
 
And, you could find the starter switch power is a grey wire (as in the previous pictures) that runs to the headlamp harness connector (white) or, it might have a short white wire from the kill switch soldered connection.
 
Correction
I said previously, that the master cylinder "must" be removed first, however, that's not entirely correct because the upper half of the switch cluster can be removed with the master cylinder still attached to the lower section but it is much easier to work on the switch cluster with the master cylinder detached.
 
Hi again everyone I have fallen at the first hurdle, I have removed the master cylinder and cable tied it to the other side of the handlebars and then tried to undo the 2 screws under the throttle and switchgear unit and cannot budge them they appear to be like nuts with a flat head screw slot across a hole in the middle which I assume is to allow a stud thread to tighten but anyway this wierd and wonderful idea will not allow me to get a decent bite with a screwdriver to undo them has anyone a solution to this problen or is there a special tool I have not got at the moment it has me stumped many thanks Chris
 
tried to undo the 2 screws under the throttle and switchgear unit...

There should be 3 screws?
...and cannot budge them they appear to be like nuts with a flat head screw slot across a hole in the middle which I assume is to allow a stud thread to tighten but anyway this wierd

They would normally be Pozi pan head screws.
 
I cannot really see them clearly but if they are posi heads they will not grip at all so may be drilling out, you say 3 screws holding it in situ I am not with the bike at the moment but I could only see 2 one front and one back where is the 3rd positioned thanks
 
you say 3 screws holding it in situ I am not with the bike at the moment but I could only see 2 one front and one back where is the 3rd positioned thanks
Cap heads/Allens fitted here, not Pozis. Maybe the 3rd. screw (smaller than the other two) is missing.:
New starter dead
 
I have just found a new complete unit from feked.com so hopefully when it arrives that will cure the problem
 
I have just found a new complete unit from feked.com so hopefully when it arrives that will cure the problem

This?
New starter dead


Do you have bullet connectors and sleeves because you will have to cut off the harness plugs (assuming that hasn't been done already) and fit bullet connectors (or cut the bullets off the Sparx and fit the matching plugs)?
 
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