New Member Introduction

Hi to fellow Norton owners:

Just joined and I will give you a little back ground.

I am in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.

About 12 years ago I bought a 1969 fastback in many boxes from a friend of my son who needed some cash. It has been sitting in my shed ever since.
I recently have decide to reurect the beast so I have been doing some research on this board and other sources. It turns out that my bike is actually a 1968 production but was registered as a 1969 which was probably the date of sale.

Based on the serial number, 126982, it should be the 860th production Cammando making it fairly rare.

The PO has retrofitted it with a 1972 front end in order to get the disc brake so it will not be all original from a purists stand point but it is what it is. The original British racing green has been painted over in orange but I may have to return it to the proper colour.

Due to the production date this bike still has the widowmaker frame. I wll have to inspect it and at some point will have to decide if I should replace it, modify it or just keep an eye on it as it will not get very many miles put on it and they won't be hard miles. Any ideas how many of these actually failed under regular street use?

I don't have any pictures yet but I will see what I can do.

Regards to all
bobunome

You could always convert back to the TLS to keep it "right" if you wanted. There are a few drum brakes listed in the for sale section here. I wouldn't recommend mine as it needs work, but there's a wheel/hub/brake for a great price. You could sell the disk parts to offset the cost.

Just an idea. Best of luck! The early fastbacks are really unique. Someday I hope to bring one back. That and an S model..

-Jordan

Just a matter of time before frame gives up so better study the improved frame with under tube to have done. Its not called a widow maker for fun. I'd keep the disc brake as more functional than drum and spend the saving on the rest of the bike. Factory disc needs some help to get up to what its capable of, then is pretty darn good even compared to moderns, ABS like at highway speeds then tire lock or close to it below that, depending on how panic gripped the lever and traction conditions.

Kind of extra tricky if me not seeing how it all came apart, but on other hand saves some trouble to go over every item for peace of mind out and about. May you enjoy your long worship time spent on your new object of devotion. It took me like a decade to cover most the issues in 750'sm but still learning new things both on lists and the DIY hard way...

hobot said:

Just a matter of time before frame gives up so better study the improved frame with under tube to have done. Its not called a widow maker for fun. I'd keep the disc brake as more functional than drum and spend the saving on the rest of the bike. Factory disc needs some help to get up to what its capable of, then is pretty darn good even compared to moderns, ABS like at highway speeds then tire lock or close to it below that, depending on how panic gripped the lever and traction conditions.

Kind of extra tricky if me not seeing how it all came apart, but on other hand saves some trouble to go over every item for peace of mind out and about. May you enjoy your long worship time spent on your new object of devotion. It took me like a decade to cover most the issues in 750'sm but still learning new things both on lists and the DIY hard way...

Click to expand...

Thanks for the welcome Hobot. I have been reading a lot of your posts and I hope you are doing your riding in the vertical position with no more interference from your four legged friends that didn't learn to look both ways before crossing the road.

KSUWildcatFan said:

You could always convert back to the TLS to keep it "right" if you wanted. There are a few drum brakes listed in the for sale section here. I wouldn't recommend mine as it needs work, but there's a wheel/hub/brake for a great price. You could sell the disk parts to offset the cost.

Just an idea. Best of luck! The early fastbacks are really unique. Someday I hope to bring one back. That and an S model..

-Jordan

Click to expand...

Thanks for the wish of good luck Jordan. As I get deeper into this bike I willl have to decide if I just want a reliable driver or collectors item with the added expense of making it pretty and accurate. Time will tell.

I think I will first get it in shape mechanically before I make that decison. When I first bought it I had no idea that it was a first year of production machine. It may be worth a proper restore. We will see how time and funds work out.

I hear you. These bikes have ways of changing your plans. I bought mine and set out to ride it. Before I did, I rethought it and decided to completely rebuild it and ended up more than doubling my investment. That said, it will be GORGEOUS, unique, and most importantly....safe.

These bikes are what you make them. Just enjoy it, however you decide to put it back together.

-Jordan

Welcome to the madness. Lots of knowledge on this site, best thing going. Cj

cjandme said:

Welcome to the madness. Lots of knowledge on this site, best thing going. Cj

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Does anyone know the production date af my motor #152422 and could it be a Combat motor?

Obviuosly I do not have a matching numbers machine as the frame is 126982.

Regards to all.

bobunome said:

Does anyone know the production date af my motor #152422 and could it be a Combat motor?.

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152422 was probably built sometime in late 1971.

Production Combats have 200000-on serial numbers (Combats officially started at 200976, but we know there are some lower 2xxxxx Combat numbers out there) .

152422 is between Oct 71 (last SS 150723) and Jan 72, 200001, Fastback MK IV. The Combat engines didn't start until 200976, but nearly any engine can be made Combat with the right equipment.

Beat me to it L.A.B.

Dave
69S

first welcome to this mad house. now, no way no how would it be a combat as they were a 72 only motor (200,000 series ). as to the frame DO NOT USE IT find an up to 1970 frame if you want it to look as it was new or you could use a later frame but there was a few differences and if it is an 850 get the triple trees ( yokes ) with it as they need to match with the change in front end geometry also the 71 is all by it's self as to the side stand mount.. you should NOT use the fastback fiberglass tank as they are a known issue with modern gas. put it on the shelf to go with it if you do sell it, there are alloy fastback tanks available and would be the better route to go.

bobunome said:

cjandme said:

Welcome to the madness. Lots of knowledge on this site, best thing going. Cj

Click to expand...

Does anyone know the production date af my motor #152422 and could it be a Combat motor?

Obviuosly I do not have a matching numbers machine as the frame is 126982.

Regards to all.

Click to expand...

I guess you could cheat and machine off the old #'S and re stamp it to match. no I did not say to do that :roll:

bobunome said:

cjandme said:

Welcome to the madness. Lots of knowledge on this site, best thing going. Cj

Click to expand...

Does anyone know the production date af my motor #152422 and could it be a Combat motor?

Obviuosly I do not have a matching numbers machine as the frame is 126982.

Regards to all.

Click to expand...

bill said:

I guess you could cheat and machine off the old #'S and re stamp it to match. no I did not say to do that :roll:

bobunome said:

cjandme said:

Welcome to the madness. Lots of knowledge on this site, best thing going. Cj

Click to expand...

Does anyone know the production date af my motor #152422 and could it be a Combat motor?

Obviuosly I do not have a matching numbers machine as the frame is 126982.

Regards to all.

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

Thanks to all. It will never be a nice enough machine to worry about matching numbers. I just want a safe and dependable ride that looks the part.

Keep its ' individuality ' or Character . You could fit a reinforceing tube , or keep an eye out for the 850 type frame . dunno what youres is worth to a mad man on ebay ? .
Youve got the Ignition behind the Cylinders ?? Id be looking for a Good Magneto . Some SR II of Tractors are the rare rotating magnet race ones .
Has a distributor rotor , 4 lead cap on tractor , 2 lead on bike . Maual or Auto Advance . blahdy blah .

Yea , good priority s working your way qutely through it . To ikle pretty shiney youd be scared of rideing the sucker . Primary budgets essentials in my book .

Matt Spencer said:

Youve got the Ignition behind the Cylinders ??

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Unlikely on an engine with a 152422 serial number.

G'day bobunome, welcome to a most entertaining place.
Sounds like you have some interesting bits and pieces there.
Are you sure the bike was Green before, as I had a really early Commando (Fastback) that was Orange and Silver
and am told it was an original colour scheme.
Get it up and running and enjoy it for what it is, or you can strip every part of it and dump truckloads of money on it,
the choice is yours. it's all fun..eventually.
Reliable and safe is STEP ONE.
AC.

Yes, Go for the Silver , Green Circle on tank , & Orange seat . Then you can park next to Katanas and induce hysteria & neurosis . Any Pictures ? please .
http://www.classicbike.biz/Norton/A_Lin ... andoAd.pdf

http://www.bikeexif.com/norton-commando-2

You can ligitimately use a Black Exhaust as per J P S too , if youre keen to rub it in .

Mayve been the Prototype with Round Green badge & Peculiar seat colour , for its day .

P.R. in N.Z. was same ' grey ' as bikeexif pic , quite subdued . ' nodescript ' , officer ! 8)

Silver !

Just a few more cents to add to the previous. If you want an historically correct bike you should start hunting for a matching numbers matchine. Anybody who cares about whether all the bits are original will also care whether or not they match. Now, with that said, it won't make it worth a lot more money (at this time) even if they do all match. Most Norton fans will appreciate a machine that is road worthy more than one that looks good sitting in a display. This actually frees you up to do whatever you want! One of the beauties of Commandos is that you have to try really hard to destroy the character of the bike before you will succeed.

Russ

Matt Spencer said:

Keep its ' individuality ' or Character . You could fit a reinforceing tube , or keep an eye out for the 850 type frame . dunno what youres is worth to a mad man on ebay ? .
Youve got the Ignition behind the Cylinders ?? Id be looking for a Good Magneto . Some SR II of Tractors are the rare rotating magnet race ones .
Has a distributor rotor , 4 lead cap on tractor , 2 lead on bike . Maual or Auto Advance . blahdy blah .

Yea , good priority s working your way qutely through it . To ikle pretty shiney youd be scared of rideing the sucker . Primary budgets essentials in my book .

Click to expand...

Points at the end of the camshaft as it is a 20m3s engine from late 1971.