This is the ignition I will be fitting to my café racer. I wanted to make sure it worked as advertised so I built a little test bench and took some pictures. All the timing pictures are either 4 seconds (0 degree) or 2 seconds exposures, this means that there were a lot of flashes to get a decent picture, this also means the timing is extremely stable, no wandering like there is on the Boyers. Oh the rotor is one I made up because on my bike the pickup is mounted at the end of the crank so it only needs two rather than 4 magnets (the three dots are magnets to hold my timing disk, they have nothing to do with operation of the ignition). Take a look at his web site at http://www.elektronik-sachse.de/index_en.htm for more information. In my book, this looks like a winner.
This is what comes in the kit of parts (along with some connectors and velcro strips)
This is where curve selection is made, there are 9 advance curves pre-programmed and one test position which fires the coil a few times per second, very useful to test plugs and coils without having to kick a sick bike. The two little switches are for rev limiter RPM selection and tach signal location selection (cam or crank)
Setting the timing is as easy as putting the motor at TDC and moving the ignition rotor until the magnet passes the sensor an the light goes out
From 0 to 400 RPM, the spark occurs at TDC so the bike should never kick back
From 400 to 1000 RPM, the spark occurs at a set advance depending on curve selection
From 1000 RPM to 6200RPM, the advance follows the preprogrammed curve, here it is shown at a bit over 4000 RPM which is the maximum my test jig will go.
Jean
This is what comes in the kit of parts (along with some connectors and velcro strips)
This is where curve selection is made, there are 9 advance curves pre-programmed and one test position which fires the coil a few times per second, very useful to test plugs and coils without having to kick a sick bike. The two little switches are for rev limiter RPM selection and tach signal location selection (cam or crank)
Setting the timing is as easy as putting the motor at TDC and moving the ignition rotor until the magnet passes the sensor an the light goes out
From 0 to 400 RPM, the spark occurs at TDC so the bike should never kick back
From 400 to 1000 RPM, the spark occurs at a set advance depending on curve selection
From 1000 RPM to 6200RPM, the advance follows the preprogrammed curve, here it is shown at a bit over 4000 RPM which is the maximum my test jig will go.
Jean
He is probably right , but it is something that will have to be tested before heaving a mighty kick :mrgreen: In your case, the best way to do it would be to embed the trigger magnets in the pulley and put the sensor on a removeable plate screwed to the inner primary if one is used. 
In a normal Norton, there is a gear on the crank and a gear double that size being driven from the crank and driving a chain to the cam. My friend put a same sized gear as the driven gear on the cam and a small intermediate gear between the two, this is to keep rotation the same and by using a gear with a different tooth count than the one on the crank or the cam, the wear pattern can be minimised. 
