New exhaust pipes needed

Status
Not open for further replies.
C

Captain Mandrake

Joined
May 24, 2011
Messages
28
Beautiful day out. No traffic. Fantastic day for a ride. Perfect time for my exhaust to fracture. At least I was close to home.

This is what I believe to be original on my '74 Roadster, complete with the cross over. Before I order something new, anyone have an opinion as to whether to get stock with the cross over or go without?

Cheers
 

Attachments

It appears that the weld on cross over fractured and caused the rest of the header to fracture. My choice would be to go with the straight headers, no crossover. There may be a slight loss in power with the straight setup, but I doubt you will notice it. Neither will those riding the 100+ hp bikes.
 
Thanks for your reply. I think that may be the route I take. I never have the opportunity to exploit the bike's full potential anyways.

Cheers
 
My stock crossover pipes fractured in the same place, check your threads into the head, they may have wallowed out while the flexing was going on. I put different pipes on mine.
 
I had the same problem with the cross-over type pipes.
Another problem with the crossover pipes on exhaust pipes sold today is that you may experience alignment problems with the crossover.
After I fitted a non-cross over exhaust system, I never had this problem again.
However, you will experience a slight power loss (hardly noticeable), and a slight increase in exhaust noise level.
 
You might do better to replace the whole exhaust system with straight pipes and less restrictive absorption mufflers. Depends a bit on where you live, and the local noise laws. If you change your exhaust, don't forget to check your jetting. I remember a friend of mine who burnt a piston just by changing the muffler on a 500cc Velocette, and it happened fairly quickly.
 
acotrel said:
You might do better to replace the whole exhaust system with straight pipes and less restrictive absorption mufflers.
Click to expand...

If you knew your Commandos, you'd know that thats what peashooter type mufflers are - if you find some built like the originals....
 
Here is the field repair:
New exhaust pipes needed



And the final solution:
engineering-compromises-leading-exhaust-threads-stripped-t14363.html
 
I found my Norton had a increase of power when I got header pipes made up without the cross over, and they have now been on my bike for 33 years now without any problems except they are getting a bit thin on the bend, had to braze one small hole up about 10 years ago, but they are still hanging in there.

Ashley
 
concours said:
Here is the field repair:
New exhaust pipes needed



And the final solution:
engineering-compromises-leading-exhaust-threads-stripped-t14363.html
Click to expand...

I would do a field repair like concors but would choose a weld with a TIG Welder. This can keep the bike on the road at least until the season is over...(depending on where you live). The welds are better and more visually appealing. 8) If you go to the single pipe set up then you must also go to the longer exhaust rose, as the collets will not be used. See again Link: “final solution”
Then re-jet as necessary. I took the crossover system off my bike and have never looked back. Too many have this same recurring problem.
Regards,
CNN
 
Hi CanukNortonNut, seems we're in the same neck of the woods.

I was going to use the old rose nuts - not clear the collets would be needed with these and unbalanced pipes. Are the new genuine Andover Norton rose nuts longer and therefore don't require the collets? I read this thread ( engineering-compromises-leading-exhaust-threads-stripped-t14363-15.html ) and am a bit unclear, or maybe just not confident enough to come to any conclusions on my own! I'd rather not spend the extra $50 each for new genuine ones, but if they're what's needed with the unbalanced pipes...

Oh, if I had any welding ability (nevermind the equipment), I would have made an attempt at getting back out on the road, but no such luck. Adjusted the vales instead.

Cheers
 
Captain Mandrake said:
Hi CanukNortonNut, seems we're in the same neck of the woods.

I was going to use the old rose nuts - not clear the collets would be needed with these and unbalanced pipes. Are the new genuine Andover Norton rose nuts longer and therefore don't require the collets? I read this thread ( engineering-compromises-leading-exhaust-threads-stripped-t14363-15.html ) and am a bit unclear, or maybe just not confident enough to come to any conclusions on my own! I'd rather not spend the extra $50 each for new genuine ones, but if they're what's needed with the unbalanced pipes...

Oh, if I had any welding ability (nevermind the equipment), I would have made an attempt at getting back out on the road, but no such luck. Adjusted the vales instead.

Cheers
Click to expand...
No collets, you need to swap to the earlier rose nuts.
 
Oh, if I had any welding ability (nevermind the equipment), I would have made an attempt at getting back out on the road, but no such luck. Adjusted the vales instead.
Click to expand...

No matter the equipment, you'll never come close to the person who welds everyday. I have a mig and a tig. I was, once upon a time, AWS certified, stick and mig, unlimited thickness, mild steel. Now I pick up a stinger once in a blue moon. Always takes me some practice and usually some grinding to make a decent weld now. When you need something welded that only has one shot, take it to a pro who welds everyday.
 
CanukNortonNut said:
I would do a field repair like concors but would choose a weld with a TIG Welder. This can keep the bike on the road at least until the season is over...(depending on where you live). The welds are better and more visually appealing.
Click to expand...


CNN, I agree with you, a TIG was my first choice for many reasons.... BUT, alas, I was truly afield, halfway to the INOA Rally last summer, at my buddy Mike's house in Washington, I was GLAD AS HELL to be able to use his spiffy nearly new squirt gun. Made short work of the pipe repair. The time was in removing it so I wouldn't spatter the entire bike, and/or set it on fire. Luckily, he placated the other riders with coffee, doughnuts and beer, handed me wrenches whilst I feverishly clickity clacked the spanners. Having been certified in GTAW, SMAW processes ASME section III and VIII, GTAW FAA turbine engines, if a TIG was available, I could have stitched it up in-situ and saved the riding buds hundreds if not thousands of empty calories.
All this started when some guy on a bagger thought he'd show me the fast way across Rte. 101 to Manchester... I guess 20 miles at ton-up was too much for the ancient plumbing to handle. :mrgreen:
 
Captain Mandrake said:
Hi CanukNortonNut, seems we're in the same neck of the woods.

I was going to use the old rose nuts - not clear the collets would be needed with these and unbalanced pipes. Are the new genuine Andover Norton rose nuts longer and therefore don't require the collets? I read this thread ( engineering-compromises-leading-exhaust-threads-stripped-t14363-15.html ) and am a bit unclear, or maybe just not confident enough to come to any conclusions on my own! I'd rather not spend the extra $50 each for new genuine ones, but if they're what's needed with the unbalanced pipes...

Oh, if I had any welding ability (nevermind the equipment), I would have made an attempt at getting back out on the road, but no such luck. Adjusted the vales instead.
Cheers
Click to expand...

Capt.M,
I would not recommend using the 850 crossover style rose nuts if you go to straight pipes. This design is used with crossover system and the collets. You would end up doing the work on your head from the link that you entered in your reply.
The better way IMO is to get some Bronze or Chrome Plated bronze early style rose nuts from Walridge motors. These expand better with the Aluminium Head than the Cast steel ones that you have. A properly seated Bronze rose nut with new exhaust gaskets (Run the bike at 3-4000 RPM while turning the rose nut till tight) will not come loose. I do not use the locking rings with the tabs or lock wire. I Have two paint pen marks on my rose nuts to watch if they move and It hasn't moved in two years and 10000 miles. Using the ones you have may seem like a good economical way to save costs but trust me, don't use them on a single straight pipe system. Keep what you have (Crossover system) and get it repaired at a weld shop. Rick Harret Highway Cycle in Waterdown would be a good guide locally for you and there is a weld shop right next door. He would be able to order all the bits for you.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN
 
I ordered my pipes and earlier style rose nuts - and didn't bother with the tab washers. I was told not to expect in before the weekend... Drats... I'll see about getting out to Clappison's to see that welding shop near Highway Cycle, should my work schedule permit it. I know a welding shop in the east end of Toronto that I've used before, but don't know how they feel about exhaust work - they seem to specialize in the decorative side of things.

I've had work done by Rick in the past - he solved my intermittent misfire by diagnosing a faulty Boyer stator that I couldn't seem to find on my own...

Many thanks for the advice!

Cheers
 
Captain Mandrake said:
I ordered my pipes and earlier style rose nuts - and didn't bother with the tab washers. I was told not to expect in before the weekend... Drats... I'll see about getting out to Clappison's to see that welding shop near Highway Cycle, should my work schedule permit it. I know a welding shop in the east end of Toronto that I've used before, but don't know how they feel about exhaust work - they seem to specialize in the decorative side of things.

I've had work done by Rick in the past - he solved my intermittent misfire by diagnosing a faulty Boyer stator that I couldn't seem to find on my own...

Many thanks for the advice!

Cheers
Click to expand...


Would that faulty Boyer stator have been a broken pickup wire? The break is usually inside the insulation, therefore not visible. If so, how was it repaired? If the stator was replaced with a new one, likely as not you'll have the same failure again.
 
Captain Mandrake said:
I ordered my pipes and earlier style rose nuts - and didn't bother with the tab washers. I was told not to expect in before the weekend... Drats... I'll see about getting out to Clappison's to see that welding shop near Highway Cycle, should my work schedule permit it. I know a welding shop in the east end of Toronto that I've used before, but don't know how they feel about exhaust work - they seem to specialize in the decorative side of things.

I've had work done by Rick in the past - he solved my intermittent misfire by diagnosing a faulty Boyer stator that I couldn't seem to find on my own...

Many thanks for the advice!

Cheers
Click to expand...

Not sure if ordering earlier rose nuts necessary.
I bought some nuts for my 72 750 that turned out to be for the 850, and because threads a little short after a while I got loose header connection.
Couldn't tighten further.
Solution was I added an additional crush washer and after about 5,000 miles still tight.
 
Would that faulty Boyer stator have been a broken pickup wire? The break is usually inside the insulation, therefore not visible. If so, how was it repaired? If the stator was replaced with a new one, likely as not you'll have the same failure again.

As I recall, it wasn't a broken pick-up wire. The entire staror was replaced and I haven't had the misfire return. Thankfully.

Cheers
 
Not sure if ordering earlier rose nuts necessary.
I bought some nuts for my 72 750 that turned out to be for the 850, and because threads a little short after a while I got loose header connection.
Couldn't tighten further.
Solution was I added an additional crush washer and after about 5,000 miles still tight.

I ended up getting new ones anyways. The ones on there had, at one point, looks as though they were tighten by a hammer and chisel - a couple of the fins were at a 45 degree angle.

Cheers
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

rayvaflav
  • Discussion Discussion
Norton Commando OEM "S" Exhaust Pipes
Replies
4
Views
460
rayvaflav
rayvaflav
N
  • Locked
Rgm exhaust pipes not fitting?
Replies
19
Views
1,571
Thomasa
Thomasa
MarcD
  • Locked
Best value exhaust pipes
2 3
Replies
51
Views
4,750
marshg246
marshg246
Hendo
  • Locked
Wearing exhaust pipes
Replies
14
Views
978
Hendo
Hendo
PM999S
  • Locked
New exhausts poor running
2
Replies
31
Views
3,329
PM999S
PM999S
Back
Top