new assimalater light on!

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May 4, 2006
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hello all, as i wrote in a previous post, my warning light has been actring very strange, sometimes on, sometimes working fine. finally it was on all the time and the bike was obviously charging. so i r&r with a new solid state one and the light is still on all the time? anyone had this happen? it is tempting to disconnect, although i like it when it works. do i start with the 3 wires. any diagnostic help would be much appreciated. seeing red in idaho, jerome
 

Ron L

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It could be a short between the assimilator and the warning light. Power is supplied thru the light and earthed by the assimilator. Any bare wire touching metal from the light to the assimilator would cause the assimilator to light constantly.
Connections should be red wire to "E" terminal, White/Brown to "WL", and Green/Yellow to "AL"
 
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thanks for your reply ron, i do have it connected correctly. i will trace the wire and see what i can find. jerome
 
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jerome
I gave up on mine many years ago.. actually the same day that I had a new stator and a battery fitted..

I was still short some 150 plus miles short of my aimed destination; at night..the light started to glow and flare up .. and the bike did not stop.
So in the end I took the can and chucked it against the nearest brick wall and have not worried about it since.

If I start the bike and the lights flare against the garage wall ; that is good enough for me!! 8)
 

ILLF8ED

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warning light assimilator

Hi Jerome,

The original aluminum can assimilators are very fragile and fail frequently due to being dropped or engine vibration. The solid state type is made for the higher output RM23 or RM24 alternator. If used on an RM21 (120watt output used prior to 850Mk3) and connected correctly (five wires instead of 3 - power, gnd, warning light and two to alternator), you will need to rev the engine to around 3,000rpms before the light goes out. None of this is an indication of any problem with the alternator.
 
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The warning light on my 850 never came on, so took alloy can apart and it had disintegrated inside. Rather than spend $90 on a new one I just wired in a small rectifier before the main one; then output the small one to drive a horn relay to switch the light. Cost: $6. Works a treat, warning light goes out at around 700 RPM.

I think that the can measures current & voltage, whereas my circuit only measures voltage - but will show if the alternator fails. Can send you a circuit drawing if you want.

Cheers
 
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hello parker, that sounds very inovative. i would like a sketch of that and maybe what parts you used and where you got them. e-mail is banjed@mindspring.com. let me know if that works for you. thanks, jerome
 
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ah, the sweet smell of sucess. tired of seeing red, especially on the new solid state version, off came the tank again. traced the wires and found a break in the wire from the alt to the assimalator. sodered it up and it works perfect, off at 700 rpms. also made a great discovery regarding flasher unit. i went to pull a wire off to check the terminal connection and the bloody thing fell apart. i found a flasher at the auto parts store that was round for 3.89 that fit the receptacle. the blinkers have never worked better! blink at an idle with lights on....cheers, jerome
 
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