neutral light

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Hi my neutral light wont work on my mk3 the switch is new and works all the wiring is fine and tested is there a simple fix or has the gearbox got to be stripped .
 
Hi my neutral light wont work on my mk3 the switch is new and works all the wiring is fine and tested is there a simple fix or has the gearbox got to be stripped .

On my Mk3 the neutral switch was a beggar to set up contact could be lost nipping it up. However once set it has never faltered. Have you checked the switch on the bike with a hot wired bulb?
 
Since the switch is new, did you adjust it so connection is made when neutral is selected? If so the next obvious test is to disconnect the switch and connect the wires coming from the loom together. If the light illuminates when the keyswitch is turned to "run", then the problem is in the switch. It should be adjusted by screwing it out (with the transmission in neutral) until the switch closes.
 
The cam plate has a little bump on it that activates the switch. If you have the switch in as far as it will go and the switch still does not work the bump may be worn down. That happened to mine. When I had the gearbox apart I built up the bump by welding on some material and filed it to shape. Maybe 10k on it and knock on wood still works.
Pete
 
It should be adjusted by screwing it out (with the transmission in neutral) until the switch closes.

Screwed in, (not out) just far enough for the bulb to illuminate reliably when neutral is selected.
 
I adjust the neutral switch as follows. Place the transmission [aka gearbox] into neutral with the engine shut down. Remove the switch [if installed]. Insert a small, thin blade screwdriver into the hole for the switch. Move the screwdriver around to verify that the neutral "bump" on the cam plate is centered in the hole. If it's not, play with the shift lever until it is. Insert the neutral switch into the hole. Screw it in until it lightly bottoms out, then back it off 4 turns. Clip the leads of a multi-meter [set to the low ohms setting] onto the leads of the switch. Adjust the switch as needed to get a consistent zero ohm reading when the switch engages the "bump" in the cam plate. Do not screw the switch in further than is needed for consistent zero ohm readings. Tighten the lock nut and repeat the test. Adjust as needed if tightening the lock nut causing intermittent operation. Check gearbox oil level and add as needed.
If the bike has considerable mileage on it, OR the switch was grossly mis-adjusted, it is wise to inspect the bump on the cam plate prior to inserting the neutral switch. A small LED flash light and a mirror will help. I find the style of adjustable, lighted mirror particularly useful. See

https://www.amazon.com/Inspection-T...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7BRQRYSY7ZW8M43B3ZTN

I have seen the plunger of the switch actually wear a slot into the "bump" on the cam plate. This can play havoc with the switch operation. :eek:

Charlie
PS Can someone edit the spelling of the title to this thread. This will help others searching on this subject in the future.
 
Last edited:
I adjust the neutral switch as follows. Place the transmission [aka gearbox] into neutral with the engine shut down. Remove the switch [if installed]. Insert a small, thin blade screwdriver into the hole for the switch. Move the screwdriver around to verify that the neutral "bump" on the cam plate is centered in the hole. If it's not, play with the shift lever until it is. Insert the neutral switch into the hole. Screw it in until it lightly bottoms out, then back it off 4 turns. Clip the leads of a multi-meter [set to the low ohms setting] onto the leads of the switch. Adjust the switch as needed to get a consistent zero ohm reading when the switch engages the "bump" in the cam plate. Do not screw the switch in further than is needed for consistent zero ohm readings. Tighten the lock nut and repeat the test. Adjust as needed if tightening the lock nut causing intermittent operation. Check gearbox oil level and add as needed.
If the bike has considerable mileage on it, OR the switch was grossly mis-adjusted, it is wise to inspect the bump on the cam plate prior to inserting the neutral switch. A small LED flash light and a mirror will help. I find the style of adjustable, lighted mirror particularly useful. See

https://www.amazon.com/Inspection-T...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7BRQRYSY7ZW8M43B3ZTN

I have seen the plunger of the switch actually wear a slot into the "bump" on the cam plate. This can play havoc with the switch operation. :eek:

Charlie
PS Can someone edit the spelling of the title to this thread. This will help others searching on this subject in the future.


Thanks so much for the information I have only had the bike since October and only had it out 5 times
I purchased the led mirror but impossible to see into the gearbox cannot get the right angle the tool will be handy for future jobs.
I cut a screw driver down and inserted into the hole but struggled to feel any thing.
I checked the switch again with ohm meter all good but I felt it made when the pin was fully in so just to make sure I purchased a new one again from a different retailer .
I have now installed the new switch but still the switch will not make and light does not work.
All of the wiring checks out and the light works if I join the wires together at the switch .
What I don't understand is when I installed the switch the light worked and the bike has not been used
I t must be the cam plate I will have to make do with no light as it looks like a big job
 
snipped
I cut a screw driver down and inserted into the hole but struggled to feel any thing.

Try using a pipe cleaner, bent 90 degrees or any small object that you can get to fit in there. If you still don't feel anything, then the button has broken off of the cam plate.


I have now installed the new switch but still the switch will not make and light does not work.
All of the wiring checks out and the light works if I join the wires together at the switch .
What I don't understand is when I installed the switch the light worked and the bike has not been used
I t must be the cam plate I will have to make do with no light as it looks like a big job

Pull the new switch out and try to operate [depress the pin] it manually. If it works, the issue will most likely be that the button has fallen off of the cam plate. If it does not, you got a defective switch. :mad:
 
Today I removed the switch and pressing the pin the light worked fine .
I inserted the small end of a allen key into the switch hole I could feel the cam plate but their was no raised button.
 
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