My 1973 850 commando project

This is my first post to this forum. I bought this 1973 Commando 850 in need of a complete restoration. It came in rubbermaid totes and I have been assembling it to see what parts are missing. Its nice to be in a position where most genuine factory parts are still available to buy. I believe this bike was disassembled in 1999 and got abandoned. It got its frame recently powder coated and then the previous owner decided to sell it. I am grateful to have matching numbers and the original fuel tank (with some rust and dents but nothing irreparable).

So far what I have noticed is missing is:
-Many nuts and bolts in BSW and BSF, spacers and rubber mounts.
- Stator, rotor, coils and mounting hardware.
-Hardware for the oil tank.
-Exhaust

What it needs:
Rebuild engine and transmission, at least disassemble and measure everything.
All new cables,
Hard chroming of forks
re-chroming of everything and aluminum detailing and polishing.
Weld broken piece on primary inner cover,
Respoke wheels
Body work, paint
repair speedometer, not working
replace, build or repair complete electrical system
repair (fiberglass) and seat cover or replace seat.
Master cylinder and caliper kits and brake lines
Im sure it needs carb work, well see how that goes. Never restored a british bike before.

Looking forward to start getting serious into the build.

Hi, welcome. That's not a bad way to start a basket case. Have you reviewed the parts diagrams at www.oldbritts.com ?

Thesilverfox said:

So far what I have noticed is missing is:
-Many nuts and bolts in BSW and BSF,

Click to expand...

Just to be perfectly clear here, there are practically NO BSW or BSF on Commandos.
(With a few minor? exceptions)

Near all the cycleparts use UNF (american) threads.
And the engine uses a mix of some UNF and some more 26 tpi BS cycle thread fasteners.
With a bit of BA on the electrics and instruments.

So you need both AF,
and British Standard wrenches (these are sometimes called BSW).

Nice looking project.
That bundle of wiring harness looks - scary !

Cheers, & Hopethishelps !

Ok thanks for the info. I have the service manual and the parts manual from Andover Norton International.

Most of the bike is equipped with these fasteners in pics below. there is very little bolts that fit my (standard fine) set of dies. except for the one that clearly mark the grade at the head with 3 notches for example.

Most have the same tpi as my standard taps but the actual fasteners have a slightly smaller diameter. I thought those where Whitworth.
Went searching online and found a whole selection of BSC (British Standard Cycle), didn't even know these existed.
Are these the taps I need to purchase?

Tested the rectifier bridge and found a shorted diode. Also found the zener diode for voltage regulation attached to the right z bar. I though that was funny. This bike has electronic ignition bout the previous owner just cut the wiring off at the engine. lol

Thesilverfox said:

Most of the bike is equipped with these fasteners in pics below. there is very little bolts that fit my (standard fine) set of dies. except for the one that clearly mark the grade at the head with 3 notches for example.

Most have the same tpi as my standard taps but the actual fasteners have a slightly smaller diameter. I thought those where Whitworth.
Went searching online and found a whole selection of BSC (British Standard Cycle), didn't even know these existed.
Are these the taps I need to purchase?

Click to expand...

What do you specifically need taps and dies for ?
Expensive buying them, if you don't actually need them.
All the cycleparts should have UNF threads, and UNF (american fine) nut and hex head sizes.
Your american fine taps and dies should fit all of these.
With a couple of exceptions - the gearbox top bolt being one, discussed here the other day.

The engine and gearbox threads are a bit more variable, but the majority will be that 26 tpi british cycle thread, with WHITWORTH SIZED head and hex nuts.
British Standard wrenchs required - also called whitworth. But its only the hex sizes that are the same as whitworth, the threads are 26 tpi, as mentioned.

If the nut has 3 overlapping circles, its the AF (UNF) version.
(Commandos were gradually going to all UNF threads !!).
Couple of these on the engine, in various places.

There is a list somewhere on the net, with every Commando nut and bolt size listed.
On one of the stainless suppliers websites, somewhere ??

P.S. Be aware that the PO (previous owner) may have obtained all manner of fasteners, and its anyones guess whether they will be correct or not.
Someone on another list not a million miles from this one takes great pride in advising of all the bodgery he has done to the nuts and bolts.
Pity the next owner that has to work on that one....

Thanks for the advise.

I am a heavy duty mechanic and do a lot of engine and hydraulic work on high hour machines. Running a tap through bolt holes is common for me because of rust, old loctite etc.. A lot of engines run hydrostatic pumps which are supported by only the bellhousing so a clean bolt hole is very important in order to maintain proper torque in these situations.

The guy who owned this bike before me stripped a lot of threads in various places. Will need to Helecoil many bolt holes. If norton has new parts available for the damaged components, I might just buy the parts and forget the tools. Might be cheaper in the long run. Will price out and see.

check with Rockypoint cycles, he specializes in stainless steel fastners for brit and euro bikes if I'm not mistaken. nice starting point for a project you've got there

2+ Rocky Point fasteners and support, in mean time >>>

technical-information-section-how-post-photos-t2357.html

http://stainlessbits.com/link12a.html

Whats all the fuss about?? You can only start at the begining and do one bit at a time..

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Well, all I have left to say is. This the most beautiful bike I have ever owned. Even in its unrestaured shape it is sweet looking. It will be a labour of love bringing it back to life. And the sound of that engine.....it will be a good day when I hear my Norton fire up.

So far just a few issues. Have to send the head out to get new seats, but have less than .0005 runout in cylinder bore. Also standard pistons still well within spec. Found crack in cylinder fins but will weld that up no problem. Also aluminum just came out shining after I removed the silver paint on the crankcase. ALso bead blasted a bunch of steel parts like the triple crown in las picture and everything in great shape. A bit of glazing in cylinder bore but will put new cross hatch in and all will be ready for new rings. 40 year old bike and lots of components still well within specs.

Parts look nice. Love how they look when all cleaned up and ready to be assembled...nothing like a clean "like new" engine. Makes my heart race.

If you can get original fasteners, please don't use stainless steel , or use non-original colours or other finish. - Definition of the term 'quality' - 'fit for purpose with obvious attention to detail'. 'A job worth doing is worth doing well' ? However what would I know ? - I am only a troll.

Looks like someones been balanceing the crankshaft .

Fingertips on the spanners is better than 3 ft. levers .

acotrel said:

If you can get original fasteners, please don't use stainless steel , or use non-original colours or other finish. - Definition of the term 'quality' - 'fit for purpose with obvious attention to detail'. 'A job worth doing is worth doing well' ? However what would I know ? - I am only a troll.

Click to expand...

The goal is to get all fasteners and various parts like air filter housing cadmium plated all at once, Local guys charge approx $80

One other question. What kind of black paint was used on the cylinder head. I want something that will let heat dissipate.
And.. what kind of grey paint is used in the various parts like the triple crown and fender brackets?

Anyone tried this ?

Kal-Gard, a grey-black coating
originally developed to protect
weapons carried by underwater
demolition crews from the effects of
salt water. Testing showed that the
material could be used for other things,
including increasing engine heat
dissipation.
Blasting the parts with aluminum
oxide increases surface area five times,
An increase visible only under
magnification. The Kal-Gard coating,
which is only 0.0003 in. thick after
spray application and baking, follows
the microscopic contours created in the
metal by the aluminum oxide blasting.
The coating helps dissipate heat into
the surrounding air or airstream,
causing a typical engine to run 15
percent cooler.

http://slcelectronics.com/GS1000_Build/ ... -specs.pdf

" And.. what kind of grey paint is used in the various parts like the triple crown and fender brackets? " Er , SILVER originally .

Matt Spencer said:

Anyone tried this ?

Kal-Gard, a grey-black coating
originally developed to protect
weapons carried by underwater
demolition crews from the effects of
salt water. Testing showed that the
material could be used for other things,
including increasing engine heat
dissipation.
Blasting the parts with aluminum
oxide increases surface area five times,
An increase visible only under
magnification. The Kal-Gard coating,
which is only 0.0003 in. thick after
spray application and baking, follows
the microscopic contours created in the
metal by the aluminum oxide blasting.
The coating helps dissipate heat into
the surrounding air or airstream,
causing a typical engine to run 15
percent cooler.

http://slcelectronics.com/GS1000_Build/ ... -specs.pdf

" And.. what kind of grey paint is used in the various parts like the triple crown and fender brackets? " Er , SILVER originally .

Click to expand...

Sounds good in theory Matt, but a cannot believe the '15% cooler' claim...

dunno if theres some missinformation there . The old ' Cycle ' tripe said the hairy paint had FIVE times the surface area ( Untill you spilt oil on it :lol: ) A Spurthe H D held its own with Wes Cooley on that . :twist

click the link to find how to spend time assembling a whizz bang ( they all do that when you do that to them :| ) Mentions clearing through passages in fins between bores , as a Nortoneer here did also .
nottabad idea - so the air flows through the center easier . Mr Yoshi got the black & decker out on the GS 1000 to perforate the fins to turbulancerate the flow through air too . Anything for HORSEPOWER .

:x :mrgreen:

Boxing day project. Got tired of cleaning fasteners so decided to repair the old hub today. Bead blasted, polished, installed new bearings and put new CWC rim on it.


From this.


To this

I look at the work you have done and just say to myself, "This old guy knows what he is doing". I used to know what I was doing but now I just walk around mumbling. Carry on then, and share.