Muffler, welding.

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A

AussieCombat

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Hey all,
Can someone please explain to me how I can reweld this muffler with
minimal affect to the chrome.
I can stick weld a bit, and I can mig, a bit, but am not highly trained.
Thanks.
Of course if I chicken out, not wanting to wreck the thing, then I'll take it to
a pro. but will probably have go.

Muffler, welding.


AC.
 
Regardless of the skill of the welder it's still a process of melting metal, in this case the muffler. Brazing requires less heat, but is much weaker.
 
TIG weld it,with pulse or in short bursts to keep the heat down, then paint both mufflers in the same position of your weld ring with VHT matt black or silver so no one except you will know what the paint ring is for!!!
Regards Mike
 
Hey Mike,
thanks for that but too technical (the answer) for me.
Tig ?, ...I thought tig was for Alliminium, If you don't think Mig is the go then I'll
take it someone.
AC.
 
TIG is for any metal. The process is great for thin parts and low heat. It is less violent than MIG and stick. You have greater control over the heat and filler material.

I have TIG welded a few mufflers, and the affected chrome area is minimal. You do need to remove about 1/8" - 1/4" of the chrome where you are welding because the chrome will contaminate the weld.



On a side note, you can MIG aluminum, it dosn't make as nice looking of a weld. You do need to prepare the MIG machine to accept the aluminum wire and argon gas. The aluminum wire is soft, so either a teflon liner is needed for the MIG lead, or a spool gun. The spool gun is the prefered method.



So if you want it to look pretty, Have it TIIG welded, but it won't be cheap.

If you want it stuck together, MIG weld it.
 
Just recently I had to weld a mounting bracket to a new chrome muffler. I used 308L stainless filler rod (tig welding) and the result was perfect, no blemish whatsoever. I didnt do any grinding, just welded right to the chromed muffler. The chrome plating and the stainless both contain lots of nickel and were quite happy to flow into one another to make a silver weld with no burn marks and no flaking chrome.

I had warned the customer that some of the chrome might burn/flake off around the weld from the heat, but was quite surprised when it came out as though the weld had been done at time of manufacture then chrome plated with the rest of the muffler.

Tig with SS filler is the only way to go for this job!

Glen
 
I know this isn't an attempt to answer your question, so apologies in advance. My advice?? commandospecialties.com's seamless mufflers. Fit is perfect, quality is great, sound is awesome....did I mention the price can't be beat??
 
T.I.G. = Tungsten tip , Inert Gas . so the gas cooels a way . Could paint it black & fit JPN fairings so no one notices . :P

For STRENGTH , the old Silfos , or brazeing , would get you a big fillet (of brass) in there to support it, as the metals strained .

Wants a big bead , anyway , even if Arc , for STRENGTH . So a big beafy welder for a big beefy weld , with finesse .
 
AC,

I went through about 3 of those mufflers, same disease as yours. The bike shop copped three returns then, said it must be my bike. I ended up on ebay with a mob called stainless mufflers, they sell Epco, a US made full stainless commando pea shooter. These are the TIT"S mate, beautifully made, the taper dooes not have that bell out like the Emigo style so the kick start lever clearnace is improved and no more broken mufflers. Nice deep spund and will cost you about $270 for a set ex USA.

PM me if you want further details. The muffler you have crack there because of I believe two reasons.

1/ the metal at the bell piece is pretty thine, so good luck welding and not getting another crack.

2/ the innards are not properley supported so all the stress ends up in the outside of the muffler, where it broke.

I hope you find this constructive, but I have been there, done that. Those muffler will last forever on a non ridden bike!

Cheers Richard
 
Thanks for that, sound advice from all.
Yes well.. I thought TIG was just like MIG only different, if that makes sense.
Thanks Brent and Wornton
PM coming Richard and cmessenk
AC.
 
My right side muffler broke in the same place. Local welding shop repaired it with a MIG and could hardly see any discoloration. The down side is the weld broke after one year. From that I'd say welding is temporary only. By the way it was a Toga muffer that broke. Still like these and have replacement Togas to put back on for this spring.
 
Ditto. Still have mine and are put up as well. Now that I think about it, it might be time to put another coat of wax on them. Damn winter weather.
 
All done.
TIG'd up and looks OK.
I would suggest that perhaps the rear rubber bracket could be better.?
Perhaps more rubber, softer ?
Will keep an open mind, as with most things Norton.
I guess any spare cash, which there isn't, goes toward a new pair.
And... Swinging arm bushes, G/box inspection, Pair of mudguards, Tail light ...
It's like painting the Sydney harbour bridge, Just as you get to the other side,
It's time to go back and start again.
AC.
 
Hi AC, glad that the TIG worked for you.
you mention extra rubber mounts, here is what I did while I was waiting for a set of headers to be made that fitted correctly.
I did push the tips of the mufflers out a bit, but certainly there was a lot my 'flex' in the system and hence less strain and vibration at the joint you just had repaired.
It did push the muffler out enough for the kick start pedal to graze the muffler though. It is now back to std fit up with the new headers.
Regards Mike
Muffler, welding.
 
Yeah thanks Mike,
It just seems to me that when the Iso's are working hard up the front, that the
rear mount still seems a bit rigid.
I notice with the bike on the center stand and a few revs, when you hit that vibey spot,
(on mine it's 1800 - 2100 revs) that the muffler doesn't move around much at all, at the mounting spot.
OK I don't ride it at that but it still has to go through it.
Just something else to ponder.
Bloody unreal, hot, beautifull weather here last week, fitted new carbs and new petrol tap, had to return the tap
and get replacement because it leaked like a sieve, one test ride..... days go by because too hot, muffler broke,
fixed that, now it is pissing down. Last day of Summer today.
Waiting, waiting,... to test new needle settings then main jet.
Such is life.
AC.
P.S... Got the (Kiwi) brother in law arriveing today, and three of his drunken mates,... Clipsal V8's. Adelaide. 4 days.
Panadol city.
 
You have a few kiwis in the Clipsal line up, F Coulthard, Van Gisbergen to name a couple . Is Greg Murphy driving this year in the V8's?
That extra mount worked wonders on mine, I am even thinking to make an offset hangar plate on both sides so I can still use the extra rubber mount, that will keep the mufflers/ headers in the correct position, just have watch for clearance on the swing arm
Regards Mike
 
I've gas welded BUB mufflers using heat dam clay (I don't remember the product name but they have it at the local welding supply). The mufflers had broken baffles so I cut a window in the back side with a Dremel tool. Welded up the baffle then welded the window cut-out back in place. They've been on the bike for 10 years and nobody has ever noticed the repair without it being pointed out.

The heat dam prevents the blueing from spreading beyond the clay and a pass on the buffing wheel removes what little discoloration rmains. Of course, if I had MIG or TIG equipment it would be a different story. But where's the creative challenge in using the right tool for the job?
 
Mig wouldnt help much, its almost as messy as stick welding. Tig is for tidy!

Glen
 
Re: Stainless Pea Shooters

Check out eBay for Norton Commando Stainless Muffler

Cheers Richard
 
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