Motocross style kickstart... any good...?

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I’ve got one of those already!

Yes, you’re right on both counts, strength and length, but the knuckle at the shaft end protrudes more than I’d like.

Another option is the Production Racer kick start but AN are currently out of sock.

The PR version would probably be ideal for a reversed gear lever set up, I think the motocross style would better accommodate a linkage style as it would pivot out to miss the bear lever whilst still folding in flat.
 
I asked about something similar not too long ago. Wanting a LONG kick lever to prod the old thing into life (the folding one is clearly too short).
Since Im eight and half stone leaping up and down physics must come to my aid.
The advise was to take two kickers cut them off and then to thread them together AND weld.
Every time I try to start the bike I think why havent I run one up but as soon as it torches off it passes from my mind.
Maybe next winter.
 
You’ve reminded me now Chris, Avery Products, I’ve sent Terry an email asked me if they’re man enough for an 11:1 920.

Didn’t you have one once? What’s your feedback?
 
Nigel,
I've had one of those on my 920 for years & before that when the bike was an 850. I got it from Sammy Miller & although I was dubious about it being strong enough it has been good for 20,000 miles but my CR is only 9to1. I have also fitted one to a mates Norstar 600 & it seems fine. That one came from Feked who also sell a longer offset version.
The other option which I have on the 750, is to make the PR version by heating up a standard 750 KS & bending to suit & replating. This is all that the Norvil race shop did according to Mick Hemmings. It also works well.

Martyn.
 
Hi Eddie

No problems but one came unplated, so that I could bend it to suit my special!!!
(For duck sake) nearly had a hernia. Ugly without chrome.
Chris
 
Since I fitted my 750 with a Elektronic Saches Ignition 10:1 combat pw3 affair the bike is starting on half kick which is sore on the knee, I'm having to start the kickstart parallel to the ground to avoid injury. But it's a ton for the kick start so it's not exactly going to break the bank Nigel.
 
Since I fitted my 750 with a Elektronic Saches Ignition 10:1 combat pw3 affair the bike is starting on half kick which is sore on the knee, I'm having to start the kickstart parallel to the ground to avoid injury. But it's a ton for the kick start so it's not exactly going to break the bank Nigel.

I’m not worried about the kickstart breaking the bank Jimmy (that’s be a tad ironic given what I’ve sunk into this exercise thus far). But I am worried about the kickstart itself breaking...

Kicking over an 11:1 920 is gonna require a very ‘committed’ technique. If the lever failed mid swing, it’d be messy...
 
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Remember Reg Orpin and the Velo that would not start at the TT...a shot of easy start or some such did the trick.. Not so good if there is a backfire but other wise will save excessive kicking when starting from cold
 
That may indeed turn out to be the case. Conversations have taken place. A kick start lever is still a lot lighter though...
We were.a lot lighter once, too.

I have a mk3 lever.on now, but only 9.5:1. No sweat.

Are your z replatements down and/or back any? If so, you may have more room from the RGM knuckle on those NYCN rear sets.
 
The rear set location is rear and up, of the standard triangulated mount. I copied the cNw layout as A) I found that a good position and B) the plan was to use the cNw reverse lever.

But the wrong selector drum is making me look at using a linkage now instead of a reversed lever.

And when this happens, the knock effect of complexity spirals !

I would still like to at least try the correct selector drum and reversed lever, but experience has taught me NOT to plan for that happening this season:rolleyes:

The footrests would have to go back a couple of inches in order to use the T160 kicker with a linkage set up.

An option I may look at in future is reversing the RGM knuckle on the T160 kicker, with a bit of building up with weld and grinding away, I think it would work well. If the knuckle faced forwards, it would give ideal toe clearance.

So, I’ll try it with the linkage set up this season and review in the winter.

It looks like a Martyn’s advice may have yielded results, I’ve bent the stock kicker and it might just work.

What I wouldn’t give right now for the correct selector drum !
 
That may indeed turn out to be the case. Conversations have taken place. A kick start lever is still a lot lighter though...
Do you need to keep the k/s shaft?, if not you're possibly 30% there already.


Cheers,

cliffa.
 
Apologies for the highjack, I'm fitting a set of Norvil rearsets with the gear linkage. Looks like the standard kick start is do-able but not ideal. From what I've read on here it looks like the Mk3 lever could work but the RGM one won't. Is that correct?

Anyone know if the one at the start of the thread will work?

Bike is pretty standard so it's more about foot position comfort than leverage - although it's been a while since I've had to rely on a kick starter. I did start a Panther once so sure I'll be fine ;).
 
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