Torontonian said:
A local man has contacted me to build a Mk3 schematic wiring for his father's retirement gift of a Mk3. He will purchase an electronic ign. shortly for it. Harness tossed in bin. Can anyone help with specific lengths of wire etc. to build up a new type one ? thanks. More soon.
Build a nail board using the old harness to locate breakouts and approximate lengths to terminations.
The wire is not laid in precut to length, leave about 6 - 9 inches extra at the termination points. When harness is routed in place on bike, trim wires to proper length to make terminations.
Use same wire gauge as old harness.
Here is an old post of mine that may help:
For anyone contemplating a complete re-wire job, here are some tips and suggestions:
1) make a schematic first. Follow Bengs advice regarding routing....try to be as efficient in wire use and inter-connections as possible. It is easier to change a wire with a pencil eraser than with a side cutter.
2) use wire gauge appropriate for the amps of the circuit. overkill leads to excessive bulk in a hurry. Wire ampacity depends on many things but stick to the schedule below and you will not have any meltdowns. All gauges noted are AWG
10 ga. 30 amps
12. 20
14. 15
16. 12
18. 10
20. 7.5
22. 5
24. 3
3) try to stay with conventional wire colors, especially for hot and ground.
4) a wire number or color remains the same if its function does not change. For ex. ground is ground everywhere and should be the same number or color everywhere. A wire number or color does not change passing thru an inactive component such as a bullet interconnect or junction block.
5) buying a spool of wire with a trace color can be expensive and aggravating if you need only 2 feet. You can stay with primary colors by marking the terminal ends of the wire with a contrasting color ring of electrical tape. For example, you can have green only, green w/ white tape, green w/ yellow tape, etc
6) use crimp on terminals where possible. use an internal lock washer to bite thru paint or lock screw connections.
7) I have never found wire markers or tape that would not flag over time. Flagging is a marker un-raveling and sticking out off the wire like a flag in the breeze. The only absolutely positive way I know to prevent flagging is to place a sleeve of transparent heat shrink tubing over the marker and shrink it down. Cut your sleeves with a paper shear or exacto knife and use a gauge to get the length consistent. Cutting with side cutters will give you random lengths and off square cuts. Am I too picky? I know you want to be proud of your work.....we say here in Texas "make it look soes you meant it to be thet way!" .
8.) The best way to make a complete harness is to first make a nail board. The time spent will be paid back when you built it and will result in a professionally looking product. Use a string to estimate the length of branch break-outs, allowing for bends and curves. Give yourself plenty of wire to make final terminations.
9) when you are ready to bundle up the harness, you can use either electrical tape or heat shrink tubing. If you opt for tubing, first electrical tape up the break-outs about 2 inches each side, as the tubing can only reach to the branch. If you use tape only, use a short sleeve of heat shrink tubing to prevent the tape ends from flagging.
10) remember.....someone on this forum wrote "patience is the best tool in your tool box". Probably the most poignant words written herein, and ever to be written. Keep repeating it when you feel the urge to rush.
Good luck. Send us pics
Slick
