Mk111 installing full auto head

Tornado said:

Jim Comstock has a couple of video's on stock Commando head studs and Helicoil/TimeSert etc pull out comparisons.



See his channel for other head stud related videos.

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Mk111guy said:

Thanks Tornado very comprehensive he does a very good job .Is there any tips or tricks to placing head while in the frame with two people .I’ve heard of rubber bands to hold rods??????

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Tornado said:

I've only done a head R&R in frame once, and that was a stock 850, but I guess your FA top will be same?

I followed workshop book guidance and watched a few video's I found on the subject. Heres a good one:



Trick is to keep rods pushed fully up into head, off their tappet perches, while tilting head enough to start rods down into block. I did the rubber band method but had some difficulty when snipping them off, a bit fell down one tunnel got it out with shop vac and small diameter nozzle I fashioned out of hose.

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seattle##gs said:

Never ever ever try to do the helicoils free hand. Machine shop only. They must be dead square with the head.

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Tornado said:

I've only done a head R&R in frame once, and that was a stock 850, but I guess your FA top will be same?

I followed workshop book guidance and watched a few video's I found on the subject. Heres a good one:



Trick is to keep rods pushed fully up into head, off their tappet perches, while tilting head enough to start rods down into block. I did the rubber band method but had some difficulty when snipping them off, a bit fell down one tunnel got it out with shop vac and small diameter nozzle I fashioned out of hose.

Click to expand...

robs ss said:

Did you see any videos of "in-frame" installation?
Out of the frame it's a doddle.
Cheers

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head removal

cant break the head loose any suggestions?

www.accessnorton.com

baz said:

What is the difference between lifting the head of a MK3 or MK2 or a 750 ?

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Big Phil said:

Hi, I’m going to try to remove the head on my MK3 if time allows this week as it’s smoking from the right hand side exhaust. I’ve replaced the inlet valve seal already using the Ludwig method and it made no difference so hoping the head gasket has failed. Anyway here a link to a thread with a video of the head coming off in the frame which is what I also hope to do. Unfortunately I have no one to help me but it I’m gonna give it a go. Also, been told by numerous people to remove the front engine bolt prior to lifting the head. This apparently allows you to lower the engine by an inch or so and makes it much easier to remove and re-install the head. Good luck mate hope it all goes well for you.

head removal

cant break the head loose any suggestions?

www.accessnorton.com

Click to expand...

robs ss said:

Did you see any videos of "in-frame" installation?
Out of the frame it's a doddle.
Cheers

Click to expand...

Big Phil said:

Hi, I’m going to try to remove the head on my MK3 if time allows this week as it’s smoking from the right hand side exhaust. I’ve replaced the inlet valve seal already using the Ludwig method and it made no difference so hoping the head gasket has failed. Anyway here a link to a thread with a video of the head coming off in the frame which is what I also hope to do. Unfortunately I have no one to help me but it I’m gonna give it a go. Also, been told by numerous people to remove the front engine bolt prior to lifting the head. This apparently allows you to lower the engine by an inch or so and makes it much easier to remove and re-install the head. Good luck mate hope it all goes well for you.

head removal

cant break the head loose any suggestions?

www.accessnorton.com

Click to expand...

Tornado said:

Sorry, I thought the one I posted was in frame. Here is another one where the guy makes lots of mistakes, trying to fit with the rods not up in the head etc:



When I did mine last year (first and only R@R) I did not do anything with the front frame mount. It was not a particularly difficult operation overall, but I guess I studied well and followed the manual/guidance here.
BTW, once inplace, locating the pushrods into the rocker perches was a matter of using long thin screw driver, a flash light and some patience. Another tip, when fitting the two front top side washers on the studs, I just slide the washers on a long thin screw driver, held them up near handle end as I located blade tip down on the studs sitting deep in the head hole...then let the washers drop in and over the studs. Nuts fitted using a bit of paper towel in the socket to hold in while lowering to stud and threading.

Also, before fitting the head, it is important to check the those same two front head studs for nearly invisible cracks into the pushrod tunnels...which will usually lead to annoying oil leaks appearing to be from head gasket. Trick is to shine bright light in tunnels while looking for light in the stud holes. Locktite on the threads will seal off the threads and prevent leak.

Click to expand...

Tornado said:

Sorry, I thought the one I posted was in frame. Here is another one where the guy makes lots of mistakes, trying to fit with the rods not up in the head etc:



When I did mine last year (first and only R@R) I did not do anything with the front frame mount. It was not a particularly difficult operation overall, but I guess I studied well and followed the manual/guidance here.
BTW, once inplace, locating the pushrods into the rocker perches was a matter of using long thin screw driver, a flash light and some patience. Another tip, when fitting the two front top side washers on the studs, I just slide the washers on a long thin screw driver, held them up near handle end as I located blade tip down on the studs sitting deep in the head hole...then let the washers drop in and over the studs. Nuts fitted using a bit of paper towel in the socket to hold in while lowering to stud and threading.

Also, before fitting the head, it is important to check the those same two front head studs for nearly invisible cracks into the pushrod tunnels...which will usually lead to annoying oil leaks appearing to be from head gasket. Trick is to shine bright light in tunnels while looking for light in the stud holes. Locktite on the threads will seal off the threads and prevent leak.

Click to expand...

robs ss said:

Is there a "best" position for the crankshaft where the all followers/lifters are at their lowest - would appear to be sensible to minimise working against valve springs during the assembly process?

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