methods of stopping the crank from turning

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maylar

maylar

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While torquing the rotor nut, I've always used the workshop manual's method of 4th gear and jamming the rear brake. There's gotta be a better way. Have a CNW belt drive now, don't wanna jam a rag in the works, and the rear sprocket is not accessible with a chain guard.

Removing the nut is easy with an impact driver, but I like to torque it properly when tightening.

What do you guys do?
 
No help here. I do it the way the manual describes. Not sure your meaning of jamming the rear brake. I step on the brake lever. Not the best method as there is quite a bit of slack before the torque wrench can do it’s job.
 
illf8ed said:
No help here. I do it the way the manual describes. Not sure your meaning of jamming the rear brake. I step on the brake lever. Not the best method as there is quite a bit of slack before the torque wrench can do it’s job.
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That, plus keeping the brake applied with one foot and trying to see the scale on the wrench is proving to be a challenge as I get older.
 
methods of stopping the crank from turning
that plus a piece of air tube around the rotor (stator removed !) will do the trick , at least for me .....!
 
On chainsaws, they remove the sparkplug and feed a rope through the sparkplug hole so it fills the cylinder space a bit. It holds the piston from rising and allows you to torque the crank nut. I know you have to be careful about having the valves in the closed position to do this with pushrod engine. A chainsaw doesn't have the valve gear to worry about.

I think someone had an aluminum bar cut to a certain length that they fit into the teeth of the clutch hub on one end and the drive sprocket teeth on the other end. Fitted diagonally one way that locked off the rotation to tighten the nut, and fitted the other way diagonally you could loosen the nut.
 
Cut a length of 2x4 to jam between the rear wheel and the main stand... worked well for me
 
acadian said:
Cut a length of 2x4 to jam between the rear wheel and the main stand... worked well for me
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I like that idea. Jamb the 2x4 against the tyre?

How about a 1X3 between the spokes and swingarm?
 
maylar said:
I like that idea. Jamb the 2x4 against the tyre?

How about a 1X3 between the spokes and swingarm?
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I would not jam anything in the wheel unless you enjoy replacing broken spokes.

just wedge a length of 2x4 between the tyre and the stand leg, put the bike in gear and torque away. Works for both the crank and clutch nuts.
 
I have a big clutch holding tool, a driven and drive plate mounted on a shaft to hold. The shaft end can be allowed to rest against a footrest.
 
Putting it into the gearbox sprocket might work but generally the drive chain has a lot more slack than the primary and you have only a single tooth bearing versus three on an engine sprocket or clutch basket.
 
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Just remove a couple of clutch plates and use the proper clutch looking tool. Simple.

Don’t worry, the belt can take it.
 
Comnoz showed us his 2 pieces from flat bar in a previous thread which he uses to lock the clutch and crank from turning when tightening the nuts... i'll see if i can find it...
 
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850commando said:
Comnoz showed us his 2 pieces from flat bar in a previous thread which he uses to lock the clutch and crank from turning when tightening the nuts... i'll see if i can find it...
Click to expand...

Yup, a chunk of aluminum flat bar does the trick.
 
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