MC resleeve options

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nberg

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I am trying to decide which resolve option to use on my MKIII. Both Rocky Point and Clubman offer services for around $200.

Madass has a diy kit for $100. Is this kit easy to install? I do not have a drill press or lathe.

Any comments on these options would be appreciated.

I am trying to keep the appearance as stock as possible.
 
Hi nberg,
Just fitting my second Madass MC kit now. No lathe or drill press required, just a very small drill. My first one was a bitch to bleed but it works great.
 

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Don supplies both the drill bits and the sealer with the kit.You just have to have a drill chuck that will hold the 1mm bit.
try madass140@gmail.com
 
nberg said:
I am trying to decide which resolve option to use on my MKIII. Both Rocky Point and Clubman offer services for around $200.

Madass has a diy kit for $100. Is this kit easy to install? I do not have a drill press or lathe.

Any comments on these options would be appreciated.

I am trying to keep the appearance as stock as possible.
Click to expand...

Madass also has a Brembo looking front MC with modified mount to accept pre 850MkIII switches. I have one on my '72 750. It's lower cost than the rebuild $200 you quote. For the '72 also provides a boss for right side mirror that the stock '72 MC does not have.
 
I found his website and saw the Brembo-type front master, but couldn't find the re-sleeve kit.
 
Danno,
No problem. Let us know how you make out. This upgrade is on my short list.
Pete
 
I have his MC kit in my race bike running the standard disc with a few shallow slots and good quality pads in the caliper
Very happy with it.
If he made a close to original caliper to fit the LHS I would fit twin discs , cant run multi pot calipers like he produces already as it doesnt make class rules.
Regards Mike
 
Totally happy with my Madass master cylinder - cheaper and better than the alternatives!
 
I bought the complete master cylinder from Don and it was of very high quality and easy to install. I found that the rubber boot from my 71 triumph clutch cable fit perfectly over the brake light switch leads exiting from the micro switch. It now longer feels like I am squeezing a brick.

Dave
 
Just to be clear is "Don" = "Tritonmotorcycleparts.com" = "madass"

Some good looking bits on the website and I am looking into a fix for a leaking front master cylinder.
 
Brooking 850 said:
I have his MC kit in my race bike running the standard disc with a few shallow slots and good quality pads in the caliper
Very happy with it.
If he made a close to original caliper to fit the LHS I would fit twin discs , cant run multi pot calipers like he produces already as it doesnt make class rules.
Regards Mike
Click to expand...

Mike,

Sounds like you are satisfied with the pads you are running. What did you choose for pads?
 
nberg said:
I am trying to decide which resolve option to use on my MKIII. Both Rocky Point and Clubman offer services for around $200.

Madass has a diy kit for $100. Is this kit easy to install? I do not have a drill press or lathe.

Any comments on these options would be appreciated.

I am trying to keep the appearance as stock as possible.
Click to expand...

I have the first prototype that madass designed on my mk-3. It,s been a couple years now and still works fine !! Jack
 
Hi
My experiences with disc brakes is the disc needs to be true in flatness and run out.

I fitted a 12mm master cylinder kit to my Combat and had hells' only trouble getting a reliable lever response. ie in travel and feel, a bit scary. :shock:

After trying all the various suggestions on how to bleed etc without any result, I threw the disc up in the lathe and faced off and got it running true and low and behold excellent lever travel and feel, it now works.

This also ran true for an old ZX10 Kawasaki I have, where you had to pump the brakes like mad to make sure you had brakes when you need to stop.
A new set of discs and all was good again, my thought is spring back from the worn surfaces etc increasing the stroke required to fill the cylinders.
Regards
Mark
 
Another source of lost motion is uneven wear on pads. I had upgraded to a Norvil disk and after market master cylinder on a heavy Commando road racer with a heavy rider. This included a Lockheed AP alloy race caliper. The set up had an aggressive hydraulic ratio.

On certain tracks the front brake would get very heavy use/abuse to the point of disk discoloration. Pad wear became a problem as the pads would become wedge shape with greater wear on the outer radius and less wear on the inner radius. I speculated that the either the Lockheed AP race caliper was bowing open under heavy forces or the differential in speed and distance the pad traveled over the disk surface caused the difference in wear. The net effect was excess piston travel to completely seat pads square to disk surface.
 
Dances with Shrapnel said:
Another source of lost motion is uneven wear on pads. I had upgraded to a Norvil disk and after market master cylinder on a heavy Commando road racer with a heavy rider. This included a Lockheed AP alloy race caliper. The set up had an aggressive hydraulic ratio.

On certain tracks the front brake would get very heavy use/abuse to the point of disk discoloration. Pad wear became a problem as the pads would become wedge shape with greater wear on the outer radius and less wear on the inner radius. I speculated that the either the Lockheed AP race caliper was bowing open under heavy forces or the differential in speed and distance the pad traveled over the disk surface caused the difference in wear. The net effect was excess piston travel to completely seat pads square to disk surface.
Click to expand...

re; "I speculated that the either the Lockheed AP race caliper was bowing open under heavy forces or the differential in speed and distance the pad traveled over the disk surface caused the difference in wear. The net effect was excess piston travel to completely seat pads square to disk surface"

On single pistons or opposed pistons calipers the pad will ALLWAYS wear to a taper, as this was the leading edge. AP Lockeed did some experiments to cure this and came up with the 4 piston calipers, BUT the leading pistons had to be .750 the diameter the size of the trailing pistons. This cured the taper wear of the pad, and as a unforeseen added bonus you got a form of servo with the 4 opposed piston setup :!: :)

You might want to read my earlier post;
front-disc-brake-modification-t18356-90.html
 
In my case the taper/wedge issue was inner radius versus outer radius. This is not to say there were no leading/trailing edge wear issues, I only noticed the predominant wear differential as inner/outer radius.

For reference, when I refer to heavy use; these pads needed to be replace after every second or third race weekend.
 
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