Maney belt drive shaft centres

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Fast Eddie

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I’m gonna be offering up my TTI box into the cradle soon and realise I have some relieving to do.

I will be running it with a Maney belt drive, that I have not used before.

In order to relieve the right amounts from the right places I’d like to know where the gearbox sits.

So, can anyone please tell me the centre to centre distance from crankshaft to mainshaft with a Maney belt?
 
Are the belts all the same size? I had to change the one Bob Newby provided me with his setup.
 
I think I used this when I was doing mine.

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I have a random Maney belt drive bought as seen, the belt is slight to long for my setup. I plan on turning the top gearbox bolt hole into a slot and rigging up adjuster screws to set the tension. Similar to wot NY Norton advertise but don't have in stock!
 
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Pardon my ignorance but what is meant by belt pitch in this calculator?
And not to forget to examine carefully the amount the belt stands proud of the pulley especially
on the front pulley which will have to clear the alternator bosses.
Finally what will be the slack measurement of the belt when cold and when hot?
 
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I believe the pitch is the distance between the belt teeth, I think mine measured at 8mm.

Click url
 
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Can anyone please tell me the centre to centre distance from crankshaft to mainshaft with a Maney belt?

Fast One:

We've fit a multitude of Maney belt drives.

The C-to-C on a 38/70 with a 960 length belt is very close to 10.25".
The C-to-C on a 38/70 drive with a 1000 length belt is very close to 11.375".

Note: these are taken from Maney 40mm drives. His 30mm drives use a 36t front pulley, so all bets are off.

See you in turn one.

-Kenny
 
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Ha, fat lot of good that c
Fast One:

We've fit a multitude of Maney belt drives.

The C-to-C on a 38/70 with a 960 length belt is very close to 9.25".
The C-to-C on a 38/70 drive with a 1000 length belt is very close to 11.375".

Note: these are taken from Maney 40mm drives. His 30mm drives use a 36t front pulley, so all bets are off.

See you in turn one.

-Kenny

Ha, fat lot of good that calculator is, although it is quite close with the 1000mm belt, it is an inch out for the 960mm belt. No substitute for experience.
 
Ha, fat lot of good that c


Ha, fat lot of good that calculator is, although it is quite close with the 1000mm belt, it is an inch out for the 960mm belt. No substitute for experience.

My typo - the 960 belt is 10.25” C-to C (I had “9” on the brain because of belt length).

I’ve edited my post above.

-Kenny
 
Actually thats good because that calculator now becomes a valid tool for anyone wanting make their own engine plates.

I said above that i thought i used it when I built mine, I did. When my belt drive was ordered, the belt length was a best guess length based on what had been supplied to other Norton based builds, it was a bit long, I used the calculator to order an available belt that gave me centres I could work with.
 
Kenny, thanks awfully but mine is 36/70!

Good calculator for future reference and cross checking Ralph!

I managed to speak to Steve who said the figure is 9.3/8”.
 
Yes, 920mm belt. It’s a standard Maney road kit, 30mm wide, 36/70.

Now then...

Steve says 9.3/8” which is 238mm. That’s 1mm different to my current Norvil belt kit!

The calculator comes out at 244mm.

That’s a big difference. And would be far tighter than it would at 238mm.

I haven’t put it on yet to see what’s what, but I’ve more faith in Steve’s figure.

Looking again at the calculator I see it’s a timing belt tension calculator. In my experience, car timing belts tend to be run rather tighter than Norton primary belts.

I suspect that the calculator is not really fit for our purposes.
 
I don't think any of the calculators are exact, I used that calculator to decide what belt to buy. The 40mm Gates belts have quite big jumps in size around the length we use ie: 912mm, 920mm, 960mm,968mm, 976mm, 1000mm.

I think my belt drive came with a 960mm belt which was too long, and as the next size down is 920mm, which seemed a big jump, I used the calculator to make sure that was the belt to buy.

As I had to drill the engine plates for the gearbox I first used the calculator to find the centers for the 920mm belt, I then found I could position the gearbox with a 244mm centre distance and the front to rear clearance between the engine and swing arm was roughly the same, that is how i came to decide on the belt length.

Once I had the belt, i positioned the gearbox at the correct hight and marked the bottom gearbox mount hole. I then removed the right hand plate and bolted the gearbox in position with the bottom bolt, I then spragged the pulleys apart to get the belt tensioned right and then I ground a point on an old gearbox top bolt that I had, and used that to centre punch the engine plate through the top gearbox mount hole. The plates were then bolted together with the engine mounting holes and the gearbox mount holes were drilled through.

When it was all bolted up, the centres were 249mm and that gives about 1 inch of play at the belt centre. Obviously doing it this way means I don't have adjusters for the belt but it seem ok without, I will probably find that tolerances in belts means the next belt i buy doesn't fit though.

So I would agree the calculator isn't much cop for a definitive answer but it was good enough for finding out which belt to order.

I think you are right about timing belts as well, square toothed belts run tighter than round toothed belts.
 
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Ralph, FWIW that’s exactly how Dave Degens would set up belt drives, and therefore so did I.

I think it’s much better as the opportunity to slip is removed completely.

He always used the syncroflex type belt though as used by Tony Hayward on his kits, and therefore so did I!

We never saw any difference with belt variation. But I don’t know if the same applies to the gates types.
 
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