Loose Exhaust Lockring (2017)

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Toodling down the road when suddenly my left exhaust pipe lockring comes off. Tightened the lockring back up as best I could by hand to get home.
Questions - is there a specific tool/procedure for tightening the lockring down? And...the parts manual for a 75 MK3 shows a spherical seat and collett, neither of which are present. Could they have fallen off when the pipe came off, or were they removed at some point and never reinstalled...and do I need them?
 
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My lockrings are in the bin, they are useless. You only need the spherical seat and collets if you run a balanced system, if your system does not have the balance pipe between the pipes then you can run without the spherical seat but I keep it so I can adjust the pipes easier but it does reduce the number of threads the exhaust nut engages in the head potentially putting more load on them. I run bronze exhaust nuts, they expand more than steel and closer to aluminium so less risk of loosening off, fit your nuts and tighten with the special spanner, then go for a ride and tighten them when the engine is warm, do that on the next 2 or 3 rides and then they will never loosen.
 
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If you don't have the spherical seals, you will need crush washers. Collets are for pipes small enough to slide through a collar big end first, such as when there's a crossover pipe. You'll need to get the engine hot and re-tighten after install in either case. The tool is a large C-spanner and readily available.
 
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Danno said:
If you don't have the spherical seals, you will need crush washers. Collets are for pipes small enough to slide through a collar big end first, such as when there's a crossover pipe. You'll need to get the engine hot and re-tighten after install in either case. The tool is a large C-spanner and readily available.

I don't have the crossover pipe. So what is the best fix - order the seal? If the collett doesn't fit what keeps the seal in place?
 

auldblue

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When I got my 69 bike the bronze nuts were wired on to holes drilled in the head but no more. I just use the crush washers , copper grease on the threads the correct exhaust nut spanner and tighten them up till I fart. Never had any problems!


Jg
 

Brooking 850

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Here is the method I use for both my road and race bike.
Also use it for the 2EX1 systems I am fabricating.
Use the AN lock ring with tabs, cut off the tabs ( I then HPC coat what now becomes big washers) drill and tap the 3 x flats on the exhaust roses, use grub screws to tighten against the big washer ring once the exhaust roses are tight.
Repeat sequence after a couple of heat cycles.
Never come loose.
Regards Mike
Regards Mike
 
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If you use lockwire, don't drill a hole in the head fin. Loop that end over the front rocker covers bottom nuts. You will still be able to unscrew the nuts to set the valves.
 
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spartanman said:
Danno said:
If you don't have the spherical seals, you will need crush washers. Collets are for pipes small enough to slide through a collar big end first, such as when there's a crossover pipe. You'll need to get the engine hot and re-tighten after install in either case. The tool is a large C-spanner and readily available.

I don't have the crossover pipe. So what is the best fix - order the seal? If the collett doesn't fit what keeps the seal in place?


The collets (some are two-piece and some are one, but the one-piece usually becomes two when you spread them enough to install) fit between the pipe and the collar, so they're not part of the seal, they only hold the pipe in the collar. If you have non-crossover pipes, there shouldn't be a need for them unless the pipe inlets are small enough to fit through the threaded lockring (collar).

I personally prefer the spherical seats (seals) over crush washers because you don't have to replace them each time the pipes come off and they have less tendency to loosen. I've heard they are for a certain profile of pipe inlet, but they seem to work with everything I've tried.
 
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I personally prefer the spherical seats (seals) over crush washers because you don't have to replace them each time the pipes come off and they have less tendency to loosen. I've heard they are for a certain profile of pipe inlet, but they seem to work with everything I've tried.

I use them on 750 pipes fitted to an 850, even though the pipes have the large flat flange they seal well on the spherical seat and as the flange is not forced against the flat surface in the head port (which sets them in one position) the pipe angle can be adjusted enough to get the ideal run.

You do up the exhaust nut lightly and then arrange the rest of the system to fit correctly including tucking the timing side pipe in so the kicker does not touch it, then you go back and tighten up the exhaust nut properly.
 

cliffa

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auldblue said:
When I got my 69 bike the bronze nuts were wired on to holes drilled in the head but no more. I just use the crush washers , copper grease on the threads the correct exhaust nut spanner and tighten them up till I fart. Never had any problems!


Jg


Which bit has been problem free, the tightening of the collet or the emission of bodily gasses ? :?
 

cliffa

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Brooking 850 said:
Here is the method I use for both my road and race bike.
Also use it for the 2EX1 systems I am fabricating.
Use the AN lock ring with tabs, cut off the tabs ( I then HPC coat what now becomes big washers) drill and tap the 3 x flats on the exhaust roses, use grub screws to tighten against the big washer ring once the exhaust roses are tight.
Repeat sequence after a couple of heat cycles.


Mike, i really like this idea, very neat. one question though, what is HPC ?


Cheers,

cliffa.
 

cliffa

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Thanks Mike,
that looks to be good stuff, but why do you coat the washers?


Cheers,

cliffa
 

Brooking 850

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I coat the washers to match the coating on the system, depending on client requirements.
Also , as I cut the the tabs off the AN lockrings, once I dress up the cut area then HPC coat, they look the business.
Regards Mike
 
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Here is the method I use for both my road and race bike.
Also use it for the 2EX1 systems I am fabricating.
Use the AN lock ring with tabs, cut off the tabs ( I then HPC coat what now becomes big washers) drill and tap the 3 x flats on the exhaust roses, use grub screws to tighten against the big washer ring once the exhaust roses are tight.
Repeat sequence after a couple of heat cycles.
Never come loose.
Regards Mike
Regards Mike
Hi Mike, where can I buy this exhaust system?
 
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