layshaft bearing-bushing up-grade

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YING

YING

Pittsboro,NC
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Can the up-grade for the layshaft bushing be done without removing the gear-box from the M/C?Everything that I have
read says this is a mandatory pre-caution.Are the instructions to do this in the factory manual?Any help would be
appreciated.
 
considering that you will have to pull the mainshaft anyway, clutch removal etc, you may as well remove the empty shell, I'd rather do it on a bench than on my back
 
YING said:
Can the up-grade for the layshaft bushing be done without removing the gear-box from the M/C?
Click to expand...

If, by "bushing" you mean the layshaft ball bearing upgrade, then that can easily be done without any need to remove the gearbox casing.
http://www.doov.com/apps/nortoncompanio ... s&Itemid=8
(Although a bearing puller is shown being used to remove the old bearing from the layshaft, two screwdrivers used as levers are usually enough to remove the bearing from the shaft)
 
madass140 said:
well it will involve heating the case to fit the outer NJ203 race
Click to expand...

Yes, and the casing will need heating before the old ball bearing can be removed (with the layshaft) but there's no problem getting sufficient heat to the casing with it in situ. I fitted the FAG 6203TB "Hemmings" ball bearing option rather than the NJ203 roller and fitting either type is easily achieved by using the layshaft as the bearing fitting tool.
 
I got the job done with a heat gun as gearbox removal was not an option for me.Removal and refitting new with layshaft as LAB said.
 
madass140 said:
well it will involve heating the case to fit the outer NJ203 race
Click to expand...

Be sure to fit a special E specification layshaft roller bearing (NJ203E). Roller bearings without E specification are as good (or bad) as the standard ball bearing.
 
The answer is yes but heat is required to set the new bearing outer race in place. The process is indeed inconvenient.This is the reason to modify the cradle to allow easier gearbox shell removal. It is so much easier to inspect/rebuild the gearbox when it is on a bench.
Be sure to check the bushings/gears for wear. I highly recommend the check off sheet that Fred Eaton (Old Britts) has written. His site is a great reference.
Mike
 
No need to pull the box,just freeze the new roller bearing for insertion into the airgun heated bearing hole. This is a must do for any Norton owner,heart surgery yes but a rite of passage. Try to get the bike high up with a lift or even a ledge and tie it off to avoid any fallover.
 
yes, take a close look at the clearances (make that slop) in the combination of bushes supporting the TS of the lay shaft. Due to the lay shaft being bushed into the kick start shaft, and that being also bushed into the casing, it can loose. Also for look carefully at the bush in 1st gear, any looseness here or if the bush has worked it's way sideways and been ground up on the kicker shaft will cause potential 1st gear drop outs.
Oh, also look at the main drive gear bush, fit and condition!

Cheers Rich
 
L.A.B. said:
madass140 said:
well it will involve heating the case to fit the outer NJ203 race
Click to expand...

Yes, and the casing will need heating before the old ball bearing can be removed (with the layshaft) but there's no problem getting sufficient heat to the casing with it in situ. I fitted the FAG 6203TB "Hemmings" ball bearing option rather than the NJ203 roller and fitting either type is easily achieved by using the layshaft as the bearing fitting tool.
Click to expand...
LAB the bearing number you quoted in your post, is that a FAG part number or Hemming's part number. I take it that a ball bearing would not need shimming? Sounds simpler to me. Is it as good as the roller bearing? I am currently delving into the internals of my own gearbox so this post is very timely. I don't know what bearing I have at the moment as I am still trying to get the inner cover off. :evil: What made me open it up in the first place was rust particles visible through the inspection cover. Then I noticed the top three inner cover nuts were covered in flaky rust :shock: Lots of it! They looked like they were unplated and had been quietly rusting away for years :shock: :shock: When I removed the outer cover there was a pile of sludgy goop in the bottom of the cover full of rusty metal and more bits sprayed around inside the cover. So I thought I had better have a good hard look at the rest of the gearbox.
 
Mark F said:
LAB the bearing number you quoted in your post, is that a FAG part number or Hemming's part number.
Click to expand...

It is the FAG bearing number 6203TB or 6203 TB.P63 (Hemming's catalogue number for it is TX1366 http://www.mickhemmings.com/)
layshaft bearing-bushing up-grade




Mark F said:
I take it that a ball bearing would not need shimming?
Click to expand...

Yes, there's usually no need to shim that bearing.


Mark F said:
Is it as good as the roller bearing?
Click to expand...

It's the bearing Mick Hemmings recommends and the one he prefers to fit rather than the roller bearing.

search.php?keywords=%226203TB%22&terms=all&author=&sc=1&sf=all&sr=posts&sk=t&sd=d&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search
 
Mark F

The rust and goop in the outer cover is not uncommon, mine was the same, I think part of the trouble is the gear box does not get very hot, check it out next time on a ride, and if you have been in the rain or like pressure washing, water gets in there. The nuts inside are not plated.

Good idea to change the oil every season.
P.S.

Look for gold colouring in the oil, that's not a good sign!
Cheers Richard
 
Sounds good to me. Thanks LAB. Is that photo of the new bearing? I see it is made in Portugal.
 
Mark F said:
Is that photo of the new bearing? I see it is made in Portugal.
Click to expand...

Yes that is the 6203TB bearing (sorry the photo isn't very good-as the image has been enlarged) and yes, the one Mick sent me was made in Portugal, however it is a better quality bearing than the Portuguese original.
 
Stockie when I drained the oil(looked like ATF. This bike is new to me) it had a trace of grey sludge running through it towards the end. I think water might have gotten in at some stage. I don't pressure wash bikes and I am careful where I spray the hose during cleaning so this problem shouldn't re-occur. I hope. :roll:
No gold colouring in oil and I strained it as it drained so I could have a look.
 
I went with a roller bearing upgrade and went through the shimming crap. Things just were not right with the kickshaft and what not. I pull it out and went with a good quality ball bearing and sleep better with it.

The roller just isn't necessary and is not worth the shimming mess. Although the Portuguese bearings should be removed, a two piece roller replacement is just someone idea of expanding the superblend.

Again, a good ball unit will be better IMHO and stay away from that shim sh-t.
 
This is great. Thanks all. Perfect timing. Gotta get this bike on the road. I've owned it for nearly a year now and still haven't ridden it. I've got two weeks off so should be running soon. :wink:
 
Just a plug for Hemmings, I put his layshaft ball bearing in and didn't do any shimming, just installed and went on. Seems to work fine for me. I like not messing with all that shimming.

Dave
69S
 
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