Lansdowne Fork Damper Kit (2009)

steven wardlaw said:
Being in tool and die work for almost 35years I love to see quality machined parts. Your parts are top of the line. I will start with two turns out on both srews and go from there. I did not install the rubber orings. What were theses suppose to seal? Thanks again John.
Sorry i should tell every one they are just spares for the top adjusters, I send some out with each kit...now, I have reset the c.n.c to cut the top nut thread 0.1mm less..thats four thou in old money! I hope the weather in your "neck" is getting better, hopefully a good shake down on the kit...soon. I would like a fellow "Tools" man to give them a real hard test. Looking forward to any comments...Good or Bad. Things dont progress without some "slateing off" I have tried to address all negitive comments....Nothing like a poke to get a man 's grey matter working, I am looking at MK 4.....Full adjustable rebound/compression in each leg :roll: But its not easy, would not bother if it was!!! ,Regards John
 
Getting a little long in the tooth....but responding to a question regarding increasing fork travel length....Norton fork travel is restricted by the spring compressed length. This is approx 140mm = 74 coils x 1.9mm [stock spring] less a little pre-compressed state ..5.2 inches. ..the lansdowne kit is well in excesse of that. Modern triumphs are approx 3.5 inches...so unless you want a few off road run's........
 
Finally got the wheels laced with new buchanans spokes ( my first try at lacing ). Went out for a ride and noticed from the very first bump that my forks are much better than they have ever been. I had done all the changes I could ( progressive springs, damper mods, bushings etc. ) but they never worked the way I felt they should. Have the adjusters 2 full turns out on both sides. I will start adjusting and see if it can be any better. Filled forks with trans fluid not fork oil. These kits work better than i would have hoped. No banging on top out and no stiff action. The only problem I had after install was a leak of fluid out the bottom of the fork. Turns out the screw that holds the damper was longer than the threads in the damper. After cutting a few threads off the screw it pulled up tight and now works great ( no more leak ). Thanks agin John for the great product you sell.
 
Steve, My pleasure: Watch those Settings...Over adjustment is getting me "Harsh" feedback :!: :( Regards John Lansdowne Eng
 
Even if I still not had the possibility to ride my Commando I did like the installation and the general feel of the kit. I have only one problem with the top cap made of very soft alloy: after 2 mounting/dismantling (changed my mind on headlight ears!!) they look like 50 years old! Anyway to buy some new ones or have some in SS?
Thanks
Philippe
 
prmurat said:
I have only one problem with the top cap made of very soft alloy: after 2 mounting/dismantling (changed my mind on headlight ears!!) they look like 50 years old!

I know I must have loosened/tightened the alloy cap bolts at least two or three times since I fitted my Lansdowne kit-and the caps are still in perfect condition.
 
Hi, Just read the posting regarding the "Soft Alloy" some early top nuts where H30, but the later top nuts are 2011 aircraft alloy and when used with the plate spanner should last well. Did you purchase them this year? i can send a New pair if required,
Best Regards J. Lansdowne eng.
prmurat said:
Even if I still not had the possibility to ride my Commando I did like the installation and the general feel of the kit. I have only one problem with the top cap made of very soft alloy: after 2 mounting/dismantling (changed my mind on headlight ears!!) they look like 50 years old! Anyway to buy some new ones or have some in SS?
Thanks
Philippe
 
I've fastened mine up I think 3 times. 1st install, change springs, change oil. They are marked up on the sides, but doesn't bother me, yet. I attribute it to the socket I used as I didn't get the alloy wrench. In a couple years they will probably need changed out.

I think the manual says tighten to 40 ft/lbs. Since these are alloy I only went to 35. Maybe even 30 would be ok too?
 
pelican said:
I attribute it to the socket I used as I didn't get the alloy wrench. In a couple years they will probably need changed out.


I think I understand why some people are damaging their Lansdowne caps-if they are using a 12-point socket!

I suggest they find a box spanner/tube wrench, or make a cap tool similar to the one John sent me.

Lansdowne Fork Damper Kit (2009)

Lansdowne Fork Damper Kit (2009)
 
Regarding the marked nut issue, Using a 1/4 round file [round hand mill] file the corners out of the plate spanner[wrench] '
The wrench now press's on the flat of the alloy nut and not the corner's, I have tightened and slackend a nut 30 times with no marking of the alloy.
Duncans manx ones are badly marked because is spanner man use's a poor fitting socket [12 sided] '
A good idea is to use the original steel ones to pull up the stansions in place first,then a good nip will do the trick. They dont need a lot of force as the taper does the work.
15 foot pounds is plenty, as we all now the stanchion is fast without the nut :!:
Lastly ; the oil can be changed without removing the nut,take the needle out ,and use a small funnel . i warm the measured amount 170cc and place the jug in hot water it takes about 20 seconds to refill :!:
 
EXTRA TRAVEL IS NO PROBLEM :!: ..INCREASING THE BODY AND ROD LENGTH ANOTHER 1.1/2 INCH'S WILL GIVE BUSH-BUSH- SLIDER BOTTOM.. ,FULL TRAVEL..BUT I [AND THATS ONLY ME] CONSIDER THE COMMADO FORKS HAVE TO MUCH TRAVEL? 75-85MM IS ABOUT THE NORMAL DISTANCE TODAY...AGREE? LANSDOWNE ENG

Full 6" travel option was the last straw for me John. Now restless to try the full kit someday. Stock spring coil binds before fork bottom bush closes off oil holes or bottoms on damper rim. Stock damper valve on too short a damper rod collides with damper cap before top bush can cover stanchion oil holes. With a ~2" extra spring spacer - no coil bind just hydraulic indefinite soft silent bottoming. With longer rod - silent indefinite soft silent top out stop.
Fluid holes must be moved and reduced and staggered to get the progressive indefinite end points. I top and bottom out very hard at times, hitting pasutre goffer holes at 60, leaping up 4 ft almost vertical slope with air borne landing in 6" deep unseen rut at top to grab front tire slamming down on nose but silent stop to rebound to full soft top out to carry on wondering if I'd bent the whole chassis
and blessing my starts face shield kept teeth off yoke impact, nope full Commando took it in stride. Rest of ya may not notice couple inches extra travel as a benefit but I sure do.

Hardest test for your fork kit to pass with me is to tolerate dampening skipping out in full leaned counter steer till transition into straight steer, twists forks up intermittently by tire chipping loss of grip as power lifts out of traction, then instant torsion release into next instant of increased traction/torsion of front tire aimed in direction of travel, Straight steering front is lifting bike hard into high side while slightly grinding rear forces bike down hard to low side. All this on tire edges over lumpy rippled cracked old fashion bluff face wagon trail 'highway'. Works a treat in rough raw woods hillsides and ravines too. When I say fork twist, not really as in stock set up, with RGM brace stiffening and raising the oscillation frequency, its more an energy storing of slight twist, not flopping into rubbery connection that delays tire or pilot forces into fork effect.

I look up to your kit equipped Manx+pilot as real cornering competition to try to match or exceed with Peel as sure ain't got no more respect for them moderns once leaned to 45* or more. In the really tight turns hp don't matter as much as handling ala the 125's passing the elite Norton racers in nice turns they tell me.
By all rights those whimpy little bikes should not be able to put down more power and thrust through turns than big brute bike, but it happens alot. Why?
I want my Peel to out turn even 125's if that's possible, best I can tell so far it is.
I await reports of Commando type racers over taking the little guys in hard to take turns.
 
When the springs are ready I will have the full Landsdowne-kit, Damper rods, Slider liners, Springs and Bushings.

JRB is an easy-to-get-along-with guy and he makes beautiful parts (stuff made by small, enthusiast shops is almost always the best).

Unclviny
 
Uncle Vin,
I have not forgot your parts.
i have moved it's a night mare getting back into the swing again...as i have no electric installed yet.
i will be plodding on with your refurb/spring kit as soon as....sooner the better!!...Wall paper and paint at the moment :twisted: Her indoors "who must be obayed" :roll: as moved up the list...well she thinks so.
Carnt wait to get your full monty off..
Nice to hear from you.
Best Regards
John
 
John,
I do not know much (just ask anybody) but I DO know:

"if Momma ain't happy, nobody is happy"

Get "the Boss" taken care of and when she is done with you she MIGHT let you play with motorbikes!

Unclviny
 
prmurat said:
Just receive my kit today: really well made! I cant wait till my bike is finished: in between the CNW trees, progressive springs and this, the handling should awsome!
Philippe

I keep looking at this post and it saddens me to think Phiippe is in such a bad way, he is a real biker who still as a great passion for his bike's, I think i can speak for all members,and wish him a speedy recovery.
 
Hey John, is the offer for the forum members still on?
I need your dampers on my babe...!
Will email/pm you.
cheers

Orso
 
Thanks Doug,
The kit works well when every thing is correct, correct alignment,bush clearance's etc. then they have to be dialed in right..once the "G" spot is arrived at they are sweet!
just takes a bit of fine tuneing, think about the air screw on the carbs /
Regards
John www.Lansdowne-engineering.com
 
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