Lansdowne Fork Damper Kit (2009)

Got mine today, will fit them soon with a Hyde fork brace. Winte's almost over here. Need to rebuild the rest of the components (busings, etc). Sorted out the newly rebuilt Koni's in the rear and soon to fit the Comstock headsteady and MKIII front iso. Looking forward to rocksteady platform to lean into corners this season. The 850 never handled as good as the 750, but all this will bring me back to that feeling. Just need more power, Mr. Scott. That's coming next season. Still need to get to the edge with what I have now.

don
 
Deckard said:
Got mine today, will fit them soon with a Hyde fork brace. Winte's almost over here. Need to rebuild the rest of the components (busings, etc). Sorted out the newly rebuilt Koni's in the rear and soon to fit the Comstock headsteady and MKIII front iso. Looking forward to rocksteady platform to lean into corners this season. The 850 never handled as good as the 750, but all this will bring me back to that feeling. Just need more power, Mr. Scott. That's coming next season. Still need to get to the edge with what I have now.

don
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More power.? You can buy that,
 
John,
Just got my package from you today. Great looking dampers. Seems like the parts that have made the most improvement to this bike are things that aren't chrome or polished stainless steel. These dampers might not get you noticed at your local tavern or cruise in but they might get you around that curvy mountain stretch a little quicker. Thanks again John.
 
Is there a way to combine the improved and adjustable damping abilities this kit with the extra travel of the Fauth kit? Best of both worlds?
 
BrianK said:
Is there a way to combine the improved and adjustable damping abilities this kit with the extra travel of the Fauth kit? Best of both worlds?
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I don't see why not, as the length of the fork stroke is governed by the length of the dampers and rods, so it would seem to be a matter of altering the lengths of the dampers or rods (up to the point where the fork bushes collide when fully extended) to increase fork travel? As John makes each Lansdowne kit individually, I doubt it would be a problem for him to make such a kit?
 
BrianK said:
Is there a way to combine the improved and adjustable damping abilities this kit with the extra travel of the Fauth kit? Best of both worlds?
Click to expand...
I don't see why you would want more travel.

Now for my stupid question, I realise this will be a personal preference, how have you been setting the rebound, slower to stop topping out or faster for better reponse.
I ended up with the compression quite firm and found I could control the nose dive under braking thus making it better to turn into corners, but I'm unsure what works best for rebound, never been that privaliged before.

Nice work John
 
splatt said:
I don't see why you would want more travel.
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Yes I agree, I doubt there's much to be gained by increasing the travel of the forks with the Lansdowne kit, for normal road riding.

splatt said:
I realise this will be a personal preference, how have you been setting the rebound, slower to stop topping out or faster for better reponse.
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I settled on one turn out from closed for the compression, and just under a quarter out for the rebound with 10 grade fork oil as recommended by John, although I'm sure I could open the rebound some more without the forks topping out, and I think John has made some modifications to his later kits to reduce the topping out.
 
BrianK said:
Is there a way to combine the improved and adjustable damping abilities this kit with the extra travel of the Fauth kit? Best of both worlds?
Click to expand...
EXTRA TRAVEL IS NO PROBLEM :!: ..INCREASING THE BODY AND ROD LENGTH ANOTHER 1.1/2 INCH'S WILL GIVE BUSH-BUSH- SLIDER BOTTOM.. ,FULL TRAVEL..BUT I [AND THATS ONLY ME] CONSIDER THE COMMADO FORKS HAVE TO MUCH TRAVEL? 75-85MM IS ABOUT THE NORMAL DISTANCE TODAY...AGREE? LANSDOWNE ENG
 
splatt said:
BrianK said:
Is there a way to combine the improved and adjustable damping abilities this kit with the extra travel of the Fauth kit? Best of both worlds?
Click to expand...
I don't see why you would want more travel.

Now for my stupid question, I realise this will be a personal preference, how have you been setting the rebound, slower to stop topping out or faster for better reponse.
I ended up with the compression quite firm and found I could control the nose dive under braking thus making it better to turn into corners, but I'm unsure what works best for rebound, never been that privaliged before.

Nice work John
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THANKS. MUST ADMIT I HAVE HAD A FEW TEETHING PROBLEMS...GINO FROM SCOTLAND WAS HAVING A FEW PROBLEMS...BUT SORTED NOW. HOPEFULLY. THE KIT WAS INTENDED FOR RACING,DUNCAN AND MYSELF GOT IS MANX A BIT QUICKER ON THE TWISTY BIT'S. SO YOU CAN MAYBY ALLSO GO A BIT FASTER!
 
L.A.B. said:
BrianK said:
Is there a way to combine the improved and adjustable damping abilities this kit with the extra travel of the Fauth kit? Best of both worlds?
Click to expand...

I don't see why not, as the length of the fork stroke is governed by the length of the dampers and rods, so it would seem to be a matter of altering the lengths of the dampers or rods (up to the point where the fork bushes collide when fully extended) to increase fork travel? As John makes each Lansdowne kit individually, I doubt it would be a problem for him to make such a kit?
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Les ..you are dead right!! and the T140's are giving good results. :roll: :roll: :wink:
 
Gents, finally managed a run out on my Landsdowne modified Commando, just under 200 miles. Initial impressions are that it does feel better and that the supension is actually doing what its meant to. I'm sure when I get around to fine tuning it will improve more. Running 5 weight oil at the moment and leaving that until the forks are "run in" Still cold out there when you are on the top of hills and the ravages of winter have left the roads in pretty bad shape so not the best condiions for fine tuning. Nice weekend though and at last some heat in the sun! :D
Full marks to John for dealing with my problems quickly and for his help.
 
Gino Rondelli said:
Gents, finally managed a run out on my Landsdowne modified Commando, just under 200 miles. Initial impressions are that it does feel better and that the supension is actually doing what its meant to. I'm sure when I get around to fine tuning it will improve more. Running 5 weight oil at the moment and leaving that until the forks are "run in" Still cold out there when you are on the top of hills and the ravages of winter have left the roads in pretty bad shape so not the best condiions for fine tuning. Nice weekend though and at last some heat in the sun! :D
Full marks to John for dealing with my problems quickly and for his help.
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Great "we" are getting there Gino! Let's hope these jaring pot holes are quickly filled in...My BMW Rt is having a few problems dealing with them. I am revising the cartridges to soften them a little..They where original race track developed..not off road!! Some surface's around here look like bombed runways :!: Unless you have some Thumpstar forks .its a little grin and bare it, The Lansdowne kit will reduce knocking the lesser holes will have..but no road bike will completly iron out the big ones. I think when you'r out over the mountain pass's this summer and the settings are tuned..you will be going like Duncan Fitchetts Manx!! All the best John
 
I spent about 3 hours Sunday installing my damper kit. I had a few problems that took a bit of extra time. The stock commando fork springs slid over the boss at the top of the damper rod, but my new progressive springs were about .010 to small ID. With a little spin in the lathe (.610 down to .590) that problem was solved. You could just as easy file them down but I love to turn chips in the lathe. The next problem was the top nuts would not screw into the fork tubes. The threads on the top caps were a little tight. I didn't want to force the aluminum nuts to screw in so I chased the threads on the lathe just enough to make the fit a little easier. I could have probably used anti seize compound and a little force and they would have went in. Also use a good quality allen wrench to make the adjustment on the damper rod. It doesn't take much force to round off a cheap 2.5mm allen. As soon as the front wheel is relaced I will make a trial run. Thanks again John for shipping the parts so fast.
 
steven wardlaw said:
I spent about 3 hours Sunday installing my damper kit. I had a few problems that took a bit of extra time. The stock commando fork springs slid over the boss at the top of the damper rod, but my new progressive springs were about .010 to small ID. With a little spin in the lathe (.610 down to .590) that problem was solved. You could just as easy file them down but I love to turn chips in the lathe. The next problem was the top nuts would not screw into the fork tubes. The threads on the top caps were a little tight. I didn't want to force the aluminum nuts to screw in so I chased the threads on the lathe just enough to make the fit a little easier. I could have probably used anti seize compound and a little force and they would have went in. Also use a good quality allen wrench to make the adjustment on the damper rod. It doesn't take much force to round off a cheap 2.5mm allen. As soon as the front wheel is relaced I will make a trial run. Thanks again John for shipping the parts so fast.
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Steve, Man after my own heart! No messing "Proper" Biker!! lathe....er.........What a refreshing change, As well you know,some Stanchions can have a very slighty undersize top thread...my old new stock tube excepts the nuts with just a "tad of clearance"...95% fit.. Allen key? Unbrako.. Snap on. Facom..even a britool...been using my UNBRAKO every day for 12 months, Inside the brass needle adjuster is a captive grub screw..so thats going to last!! Awaiting your road test report..easy on the compression damper cowboy!! Best Regards John Lansdowne Eng
 
Being in tool and die work for almost 35years I love to see quality machined parts. Your parts are top of the line. I will start with two turns out on both srews and go from there. I did not install the rubber orings. What were theses suppose to seal? Thanks again John.
 
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