My bike is pretty similar to yours. These are a few thoughts on what I have found over the years. Firstly agree with the earlier advice on the primary etc. I also agree that the inline value is a bit risky. Some say they have used them 40 years no problem. Others report ruined engines from no oil. I do not run one. They are installed to stop wet sumping when the bike is stored for a few weeks or more. Some bikes including mine never wet sump. Others do. If yours is one then either ride it more often or drain the sump if it hasn't run for a while.
The screw in clamps on the exhausts are famous for rattling undone. Hopefully the threads are in good shape. My method involves using high temp RTV on the threads and tightening them once or twice after the bike is hot.
I don't know if your familiar with the Amal Mk1 carbs but if not be aware the choke is a bit counter intuitive. When the cable is slack the choke is on. Normal riding position is with the cable pulled fully tight. I think the advert says new levers etc. Please be aware the modern reproduction choke levers are total crap and vibrate to the closed position. I gave up on my new lever and found an original in decent condition and it actually works. So you may find your choke is vibrating to the on position.
The standard top mount under the tank is pretty marginal. There are many upgrades available. I use the Dave Tayler upgrade which is at the lower end of the options. If you do have a repro petrol tank some of the better options eg Norman White or CNW may not have enough clearance.
You have the correct petrol pipes fitted but I find that version prone to leaks. The latter Mk 11 Mk 111 version works better for me.
If your tachometer drive leaks there is a proper seal upgrade available.
There is a special section on rhis site with info on the best modern oil options for the Commando. If the bike has sat a while take off the front tappet covers and pour an egg cup or so of oil down the push rod tunnels. This will keep the cam happy. Don't let the bike idle immediately after start up because that kills the cam. Run it at about 2000 rpm or so.
Commandos can be a bit fussy with handling unless everything is straight and properly adjusted. Check wheel alignment , isolastic clearances and tyres are balanced and running true.
Brakes are not that great. I'll leave advice on the front options for you to search the many threads. I have gone upmarket with a CNW disc. Andover Norton sell a front master cylinder with a correctly designed piston. Personally I wouldn't go with the resleeving options because I feel a 100 % reliable brake is kind of important.
RGM sell upgraded shoes with good linings for the rear brake which are the best I have ever found. But you may need to have the linings arced with a lath to get them to fit properly.
I think the Norton workshop manual is good plus the Clymer manual if you can find one. The Haynes one is not as good.
