kill switch to oil tap

I want to fit a tap on my oil line to stop wet sumping have a tap with a micro switch fitted where is the best place to fit these wires to make a kill switch? bike is a 1971 750

I won't comment on the value/risk of this modification, this has been beaten to death elsewhere on this forum.

If you have a stock wiring harness, you will find a white/blue wire running from one side of the ballast resistor. The other side of the ballast resistor goes to the coil. If you have an EI then the white/blue feeds the EI and the ballast resistor has been taken out of the circuit. Assuming the switch on your valve is normally closed when the valve is open, then you want to wire this switch between the white/blue wire and the ballast resistor (or EI). This wire is also white/yellow where it comes from the kill button on the handlebar switch (changing color in the big gang connector under the tank), so can be spliced into there if you prefer.

mark375850 said:

I want to fit a tap on my oil line to stop wet sumping have a tap with a micro switch fitted where is the best place to fit these wires to make a kill switch? bike is a 1971 750

Click to expand...

Where do you get these from, pic's?
Just askin.
jug

Here's how I did it. Made the bracket out of aluminum.





The search function is erratic, sometimes best to use a different search engine than the forum one. If you search my posts from the forum, you'll find plenty ideas on the valve. Search for pex, micro-switch, microswitch, valve, etc. One guy just used the hose clamps and the valve handle as the switch.

You can buy one from IronJohns complete, it's a little more aesthetic. Just interrupt the ignition circuit with the switch. I did mine from the ignition switch but the 71 may be different.

Beauty, or ugliness, is in the eye of the beholder. Comparing the AMR modified timing case with the what you've pictured pretty well says it all, for me.

I wired mine into the engine kill button circuit.

JimC said:

Beauty, or ugliness, is in the eye of the beholder. Comparing the AMR modified timing case with the what you've pictured pretty well says it all, for me.

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I second this sentiment. My opinion is that you need only three things to address this issue:

1. http://www.amr-of-tucson.com/nortech.html
2. http://www.norvilmotorcycle.co.uk/067221.htm (to easily drain what little makes its way into the sump)
3. Straight 50W

This thread should run for a while...!

acadian said:

JimC said:

Beauty, or ugliness, is in the eye of the beholder. Comparing the AMR modified timing case with the what you've pictured pretty well says it all, for me.

Click to expand...

I second this sentiment. My opinion is that you need only three things to address this issue:

1. http://www.amr-of-tucson.com/nortech.html
2. http://www.norvilmotorcycle.co.uk/067221.htm (to easily drain what little makes its way into the sump)
3. Straight 50W

Click to expand...

How about
4. Wet sumping is normal, go ride.

Determined to keep the sump clear by constant year round riding and unwilling to fit a Gearloose Gadget, Alphonse plunged into the snowbank with his legs in the air......

I grantee ya wortron I ain't letting our kissing cousins Hogs have all the feet forward fun - this shot is very similar to how I do water crossing in colder weather and main reason I run sealed dry belt drive. Wes does em same way if going fast enough to create spray. Would not bother a micro switch till maybe later but same hazard as brake switch use.