Kickstart lever stuck on splines

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Niagara850

Niagara850

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Changing out the layshaft bearing and reassembling the gearbox was the easy part of this job... Kickstart crank went on the splines easy enough, but the bolt sheared off when tightening. Now the crank won't come off the splines. The remaining bolt piece is past the gap so the crank isn't tightened up, but the b^%$!*d won't slide off. Tried levering with a couple of screwdrivers to no avail. Any suggestions? Also anyone know the size and thread of the bolt?

Kickstart lever stuck on splines

kickstart by niagaraz, on Flickr
 
Lovely just lovely, it ain't me this time. LIkely the bolt did not back up enough yet to clear the groove in the splines. Just clearing the gap ain't enough for sure. May have to pull gearbox to get a drill and extractor on the bolt remains. If bolt can't be remove more may have to slice off the kick lever and chalk it up another Commando let down. If just splines stuck up I use very small 90' pry bars and a claw hammer and a wedge hammered in the gap. You really did twist your self up a real dozie to recover. i now drill out the threads in the lever and insert a longer grade 8 bolt with is head trimmed to butt up on rear of lever then use a nut to get the HI Clamp force, that still don't really keep it stable very long, even with gap widened and 3 spline removed on either side of gap.
 
The bolt is positioned in the groove cut in the shaft---so keeping the lever from sliding off.

Removal of broken bolt: if you can center punch the end of the broken bolt--the end opposite the broken end---try drilling it out---the drill bit --1/8" ?? 1/4"?/--turning clockwise--may just twist the bolt out. Also, if you have a good tool selection--try using a small pointy chisel tapping lightly with a ball peen and you may just get the bolt to twist itself loose may take awhile but it will eventually back out far enough so you can get a good purchase on it with a small vise grip tool.
 
Thanks for the suggestions. You're right, the broken end is likely close enough to be in the shaft groove... I can see the broken end and might be able to get a punch and and drill on it, maybe extractor or successive sets of larger drills... but tomorrow, time for a cold beer.
 
If you can see the end of the bolt---not the broken end---that's where you drill---don't drill on the broken end unless you have a good set of reverse drill-type extractors. The bolt needs to come out "counter-clockwise"---"anti-clockwise" as our friends across the pond would say.
 
If the bolt is jagged where it's broken off, and you can't get a good start with a punch or bit wandering, drill a nicely centered hole in a inch long dowel, and then use that as a guide.
 
Bolt, 3/8-24 x 1 1/2 UNF. Get a grade 8 bolt next time. I think you can drill it from either end, mine is open on the opposite side from the bolt head, but if you have the reverse 'easy-out', you will have to drill from the head side. When you get it out, open up the relief hole (where you first insert the bolt) so the next time you tighten down the (grade 8) bolt, it doesn't bind in the hole when it pinches on the KS shaft. Glad to see you're using a flat under the bolt head, that helps but also use some anti-seize on both the washer and the bolt threads. I've got mine cranked down probably over 70 ft-lbs.

Dave
69S
 
Bear in mind that at least you have the "better kind" of bolt breakage - while tightening. At least you know the bolt went in easily and didn't break because the threads are corroded or cross-threaded. That, of course, assumes that the bolt DID thread in easily until it began to tighten on the lever. If so, and you can get any sort of purchase on either end, using the correct rotation bit, it should thread back out easily enough. Good luck!
 
by VintAge » Thu Apr 12, 2012 10:33 am

Bear in mind that at least you have the "better kind" of bolt breakage - while tightening. At least you know the bolt went in easily and didn't break because the threads are corroded or cross-threaded. That, of course, assumes that the bolt DID thread in easily until it began to tighten on the lever. If so, and you can get any sort of purchase on either end, using the correct rotation bit, it should thread back out easily enough. Good luck!
Click to expand...

It snapped on the way in and was going easy but started to get harder and still had about 1/4 " to go. The bolt was necked where it sat in the groove of the kickstart shaft and the thread buggered around that spot. I am wondering how hard it will be to get out. I was using a 6 inch open end wrench and it broke rather easily. Should have used a new bolt...
 
So... couldn't get at from behind, peashooters in the way, pushed the lever down came from above with a small bit, couldn't get in straight because the gear box cover in the way. It wandered off to the shaft groove side and removed enough bolt to pry the Kickstart off the shaft. Using my neighbour's (Knoxy) drill press came in from the bottom drilled with a small drill, succesively bigger to 7/32". It didn't wind itself out, put it in the vice so came in from the top with and Easyout. Didn't budge, the square end of the Easyout doesn't fit any of the sockets, or wrenches, SAE, Metric, Whitworth... had to use a cresent wrench. Put enough torque that the jaws were pulling apart, way more force than was used to put it in. Heated with heat gun, still stuck in there. Have to think some more, next size larger drill and chase with a tap?

Will have to buy Knoxy a platter of Lake Erie perch at the Port Dover Friday 13th bike rally tomorow.

Kickstart lever stuck on splines

Kickstart by niagaraz, on Flickr
 
If you got that good a grip on the bolt, wonderful!. now don't be a pussy with a mere heat gun get a real flame torch on the ks level till like 500'F oil flash off temps then sprizt the bolt with oil or candle wax and see if the mental focus of the forum has alerted reality of you as it has for me more than once and it eases right out like a TV mechanics show.
 
Update: Gave the kick start lever the heat, enough to come though the glove but not enough to colour the chrome, no luck. I think the easyout was screwing tighter more than pulling out, maybe a square one would have been better. Thinking finesse rather than brute force is the answer, looked up the drill size for a 3/8 x 24 tap.. size Q ..wtf.. refered to the actual size and ran an 11/32 drill from the the back end in the drill press and chased the thread with a tap. Cleaned out nicely. Success!
 
Very good to hear the other shoe drop for peace of mind. I've no shop so would had to farm it out. I guess you've figured out how to avoid this next time.
 
Wow, what a mess but glad it is resolved. Stainless for pretty ,grade 8 steel for kicker bolts. I chose a shorter bolt than Hobot realizing the potential for bending (the bolt) is greater with the much longer bolt with nut end on the protrusion as things are drawn together to the shaft in a not-so-straight path. Holds like in a vice now using a powerbar to really really tighten that puppy up.
 
Good, but for sure get the grade 8 bolt for that junction. And tighten the crap out of it.

Dave
69S
 
Head of a through bolt must go in from the back side and needs head trimmed to butt up and lock up w/o a wrench, which wouldn't fit anyway. Bolt must be long enough to stick out to put a grade 8 nut on to do the clamping. Open slot and remove like 3 splines either side of slot.
 
Hobot,did that last sentence with the shorter grade 8 with flat washer and total success employing power bar. Interesting that you reversed the bolt (longer) with grade 8 nut to achieve this state of bliss.
 
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