Just Won't Start %#*

74MKIIA

recap
- just finished (well..month ago ) restoration and have been trying to get it running since.
- checked the Boyer ign. and coils etc. ( thanks for the links LAB)
-tracked down the no spark problem a few nights ago with a buddys help. Bad ground at one of the wires on the frame. Good spark now.
-fill tank with new gas, and start kicking.
- tickle carbs, try full choke - half choke- no choke -full choke.
-pull out plugs every 10 kicks or so, gas getting to them, dry them out try again.
- about every 20th kick, get a sputter, but nothing consistent with fuel mix trials.
- between attempts when icing the old knee, recharge battery to make sure it is topped up, getting about 12.75 volts.
- at one point even did the bit of gas in each cylinder to see if that would work.

This is making me mental guys! I'm not a mechanic, but for the life of me don't know why this wouldn't be running.

Just got some new plugs I am about to put in, although there appears to be absolutely nothing wrong with the ones in right now.
Off to the garage to try this attempt.
If anybody has a thought,and maybe it was dicussed in the past, but I can't find it specifically, I would greatly appreciate it !

Having just recently gone thru this, here are my thoughts.

Plugs may look good, but are bad, new ones are cheap.

As for ignition, yours might be off. I had run thru the procedure and somehow my rotor ended up 90 degrees out.

If you don't get anything after 5 kicks. Stop and investigate.

A quick and dirty timing trick, pull the plugs and get one cylinder to stop just before top dead center. Level out the rotor magnets with the logo on the timing cover.
This will get you in the ballpark. Usually close enough for it to fire. From there you can strobe it and adjust as needed.

I have done this a few times recently and it has worked every time.
The first time I tried to start a Norton from a rebuild many years ago, it took many attempts and frustration. And only started due to dumb luck.

bwolfie said:

I had run thru the procedure and somehow my rotor ended up 90 degrees out.

Click to expand...

If the wrong alternator rotor timing mark (there are normally two = 180 degrees apart ) was selected when positioning the Boyer rotor, then the rotor would end up 90 degrees out, consequently the ignition timing will be 180 degrees out.

If it was me...........
Knowing for sure (or pretty sure) that the Boyer was set up right and working correctly,
I would disconnect the fuel entirely from the system, dry the plugs and see if I couldn't get it to fire off with Starting Fluid (either).

If it does show signs of life, you know that fuel is the issue and you can focus your attention on adjusting the carb(s).

Since you are not sure whether it is fuel or spark that is keeping the engine from starting, this trick helps to determine where
to look by taking the flooding (tickling) and pilot circuit out of the mix.

Of Course,
I fully expect that this post will probably spark a torrent of anti starting fluid posts, but I have used it for years for just such
diagnostic procedures and never had an issue.

I went through the same thing, and only after I cleaned my pilot jet orifices with a wire did I get it to start (Amals)
JD75

5 kicks is more than enough to get it going. After that you're just irritating yourself. I'm assuming you have compression. Sounds like spark is good. Try the starting fluid, lightly. Like Mark says, that will eliminate the spark/timing issue. I bet it's a timing or blocked idle circuit. That idle circuit can be tricky. Only real way to check is carbs off and squirt cleaner in one of the ports and see that it comes out all the others, unless you have something other than Amal carbs. Make sure your float level is not too low. If it tickles and drips you should be OK to start. If it won't drip, it won't start.

Dave
69S

I agree with everyone else here. If you've got spark, then its a matter of timing or fuel. You don't need the points cover on to start, so that would be the first thing to check with the plugs out. Rotor magnets should be roughly horizontal just before TDC. If they're vertical, then you've set the Boyer rotor to the wrong mark on the alternator rotor (Boyer turns at half crank). Just loosen the Boyer rotor and turn it 90 degrees so its more or less horizontal.

Even if the carbs are new out of the box, Its a good idea to check and make sure the pilot circuit is clear. Sometimes the circuit gets blocked by swarf when the orifice is pressed into the body. The float level is adjustable, but tricky with the plastic floats. You need to move float needle seat in or out with a drift - not for the meek! As said above by others, a squirt of starting fluid will rule out carb problems.

Thanks much guys!

Does one empty the carburator bowls before doing the starting fluid part?

Do you just give a squirt to each cylinder ?

Sorry, not sure what a pilot circuit is.

no need to empty the float bowls.
just open the throttle all the way and a quick blast down the throat of each carb.

Chester said:

Thanks much guys!

Does one empty the carburator bowls before doing the starting fluid part?

Do you just give a squirt to each cylinder ?

Sorry, not sure what a pilot circuit is.

Click to expand...

1. No,
2. Yes, but not much, you can blow holes in pistons with this stuff. It's really best to squirt it while the piston is moving. I'd stand back and give it a light touch.
3. Uh, oh. Better go here. http://www.jba.bc.ca/Bushmans%20Carb%20Tuning.html

Dave
69S

You're not trying hard enough. Kick more! :mrgreen:

Didn't your problem end up being the idle circuit, Dave?

Dave
69S

DogT said:

Didn't your problem end up being the idle circuit, Dave?

Dave
69S

Click to expand...

we've all been there.

DogT said:

Didn't your problem end up being the idle circuit, Dave?

Dave
69S

Click to expand...

Ground wire on Boyer.

And some of us, at least one is there again. Note to self, do not do rebuild on carbs and igintion at the same time. :cry: